STRYKER

Ok, I have a few questions for you guys, but first a short rundown of my situation and what I'm searching for.

I recently bought a '95 Z28 with about 150 k on the ticker. The engine was said to have been rebuilt back in November but to what extent, I'm not sure of. Anyway to make a longer story short, I spun a bearing and now the engine is coming out. Since I am pulling the engine I am going bo build it up. My goal for this engine is to reach mid to high 11's n/a but I will be spraying the juice too (direct port LT4 already in the works) For the most part the car is going to be street driven but will see track action from time to time as I live less than a half hour from Mucie Dragway. Also, I have the rear seat out and spare tire too, but I don't want to have to go much farther than that. Now here for the questions:

I am working on a family man budget (wife, 2 kids) so the things will come as I get the money and the bank (read..wife ) agrees to it. Right now I do have the money and the approval to get the bottom end worked on so here it goes.

Can I use an older 1 pc. rear main seal crank or am I limited to just LT1 cranks? If I can use the non-LT1 crank, how hard would it be to hook up my engine accessories ie...air cond,alternator etc using the 400 balancer? I am going make a stroker out of this also and I will be putting billet 4 bolt caps on there as well.

On the top end I have a few other questions such as will the stock cast LT4 intake need any additional work done to it to reach my goals ? The reason I ask is because I have read a lot posts in here stating that as long as everything is properly tuned and matched up, there is no need to have to go excessive on the heads etc.(Mindgame,SStroker to name a couple) Also will stock cast LT4 heads ported out get me to where I need to be or will I need AFR's, or something of the like?

Just as a side note, I know about all the suspension work that needs to be done and I am confident on setting it up properly too.

TIA !!!

1racerdude

Talk to Lloyd Elliot and tell him what ya got in mind and he will get ya fixed up with a matching set up.Ask him on the intake too.The LT-4's should be fine again talk to Lloyd
You "can" use the early crank but the cost would be more than getting a crank from the junk yard or off the board.

STRYKER

Thanks man, Is Lloyd Elliot on this board or how do I get ahold of him ?

1racerdude

He is a board member.

guywithaZ

Lloyd Elliot

http://www.eportworks.com/index.htm

STRYKER

Hey guys, I appreciate the info. From the way everyone talks on this board, it sounds like this guy know what he's doing. I'll be in touch with him shortly.

But how about the question with the crank ? Can anyone else give me any more insight as to what all has to happen on order to use the pre-LT1 1 pc. seal crank or is it just now worth worrying about ? The reason I ask is because I'm going to stroke this, not just return it to stock.

Thanks again,

1racerdude

If ya got a free stroker it is worth it, outherwise it's a long list of things that have to be bought and shop work done. It can be done.

onlyone07

I think he's asking if any one piece rear main seal will work with the LT1, and yes it will.

1racerdude

That's what I tried to say,but it ain't a drop in.Like I said there are pieces to buy and shop work to be done.If ya had to buy the kit + the other parts,why not just get an LT-1 kit instead of an early model=cheaper.

89385formula

OK, not trying to be redundant here but I was always taught that any 86+ one piece seal will work in the LT1...was this information incorrect? If so what is the difference? I know that LT1's are balanced differently, but if you are redoing the bottom end that wouldn't be an issue because you would have the new rotating assembly balanced anyways. Whats the "other" parts necessary?

Kyle

1racerdude

I was under the impression ya wanted to use an early two piece seal crank.
If ya wanted to use a one piece then all of them will work.I didn't know they broke them down past one piece and two piece seal cranks,early or late.
Sorry for the misread.

89385formula

Phew, that's a relief. I thought that was the way it was, I was hoping I wasn't wrong for telling multiple people it would work. As far as I know they don't break it down like that, but certain vendors make it seem like the LT1 stroker kit is different from the normal one piece seal kit...Maybe its a reason to try to charge more. lol

1racerdude

I hear ya on the charging more.

STRYKER

That is the exact reason I am asking because on the Eagle website http://www.eaglerod.com/welcome.html the first caption says:

"We are proud to announce relief for you 383 LT1 guys! We now have a cast 383 crank for a LT1 that balances like a stock LT1 (internal in the front and external in the rear!). Finally you can build a 383 CID LT1 and still use your factory balancer and flexplate or flywheel."

And I was under the assumption (like the rest of you) that all 1 pc. rear main seal cranks were the same. So is there a difference between the LT1 cranks and the 87-92 350's or has Eagle just found a new way to make more $$$ ? I dunno. But I sure am confused now !!

If someone knows for sure could they please let me know. I will be needing one soon.

TIA,

89385formula

Ok, as for that. I wouldn't worry about that. I am guessing that its already balanced. No need to spend $300+ on a cast crank. Buy the normal one piece seal crank. If you are going to be rebuilding it you are gonna want to balance the rotating assembly..so that crank is not necessary. When you get the stuff to do the rebuild get the one piece seal, internal balance stroker crank....but when you take it to the machine shop. take them your flywheel, and balancer as well. They will internal balance, and make the flywheel what is called neutral balance i believe. I really just think its a reason for people to charge more in all hosesty. There have been plenty of people that built a 383 without running these cranks.