Recalibrate TPS???
#5
The digi cameras dead for the moment, but ill explain it in as much detail as poss. The tps will fit onto the throttle plate end, but when that part fits, the screw holes dont line up, so i have to turn the tps. it seems logical to deduce that turning the tps requires recalibration or adjustment to the tb, i do not know how to approach either at this point.
#6
its a bbk tb, just checked the bbk site, sholda looked there first, they say that some modification to the tps may be needed in order to have it operate properly, and it is just the piece on the inside that moves, but i think it moves just too much. I am just not sure if i can modify the tps enough. I suppose it would be better to try that and ruin a $30 part than a $250 one.
#7
funny you should ask that, the car ran great for about 30-45mins right after the install. then after about another 30-45mins of sitting, not running, restarted it and it started givin me a hard time. My ses light did come on shortly after the install, and i narrowed it down to the tps, everything was hooked up, and it would only come on under hard acceleration.
#8
I suppose i narrowed it down by trouble shooting, all the connectors were in tight, and the only thing that did not perfectly go into place was the tps, but then again it may not be my tps, i could have totally missed something, im gonna take it to a place to get the codes read, it is semi-driveable, just gotta pay close attention to the revs, but it is odd, the car now dies intermittently, sometimes it wil idle normally and sometimes not, but the ses light comes on immediately after startup. This is after i pull the pcm batt fuse to clear the code.
#9
Originally posted by dtboyd
The tps does not line up correctly to the new throttle body i installed, talked to a tech and he told me to try and recalibrate it.
The tps does not line up correctly to the new throttle body i installed, talked to a tech and he told me to try and recalibrate it.
There is no calibration of the sensor that would require the use of a special computer or anything else.
Just make sure the TPS is mounted correctly and not "crooked".
#10
I meant to get back sooner, but it's been a little crazy at work. Anyways, my Holley did the same thing. I had to turn it a little bit to get the screws to line up. It doesn't require recalibration. It will require a reflash of the computer if you're running an automatic, but other than that, the computer just needs time to learn how much more air the TB is letting in.
#11
It is completely normal for the TPS sensor to require a slight turn to line up the screw holes, after you fit it correctly over the "flats" on the shaft.
To correctly install the throttle body, put everything back together, including the slight turn to line up the screw holes. Start the car, let the coolant fully warm up, and check the idle speed on a scanner (not the stock tach, its inaccurate). If the engine is not at the correct idle speed - it will be too high if it isn't correct - check the throttle stop screw on the TB. It will probably be "out" too far. Start to back it off until you get the correct idle speed (stock is 800rpm for the M6, 650rpm in neutral for the A4). Then check your IAC "counts" to make sure they are in the range of 20-40 counts. If they are not, tweek the stop screw until they are.
Only then do you need to check the TPS voltage. If it is between 0.20-0.90V, the PCM can recognize it and set that voltage as 0% TPP (throttle position). Some people feel they get the best results with TPS voltages in the range of 0.50-0.67V (typical reading on an unmolested factory stock setup is 0.62-0.67V). If you want to adjust it, simply "slot" the screw holes in the TPS to allow you the correct rotation.
Be sure to check the TPS sensor voltage over the full range of rotation.... 0.20-0.90V closed, approx 4V higher than that wide open, and a smooth transition as the shaft is slowly rotates to full open.
To correctly install the throttle body, put everything back together, including the slight turn to line up the screw holes. Start the car, let the coolant fully warm up, and check the idle speed on a scanner (not the stock tach, its inaccurate). If the engine is not at the correct idle speed - it will be too high if it isn't correct - check the throttle stop screw on the TB. It will probably be "out" too far. Start to back it off until you get the correct idle speed (stock is 800rpm for the M6, 650rpm in neutral for the A4). Then check your IAC "counts" to make sure they are in the range of 20-40 counts. If they are not, tweek the stop screw until they are.
Only then do you need to check the TPS voltage. If it is between 0.20-0.90V, the PCM can recognize it and set that voltage as 0% TPP (throttle position). Some people feel they get the best results with TPS voltages in the range of 0.50-0.67V (typical reading on an unmolested factory stock setup is 0.62-0.67V). If you want to adjust it, simply "slot" the screw holes in the TPS to allow you the correct rotation.
Be sure to check the TPS sensor voltage over the full range of rotation.... 0.20-0.90V closed, approx 4V higher than that wide open, and a smooth transition as the shaft is slowly rotates to full open.
#12
it is good that i checked this before going to a shop. i have not paid anything yet, but is it possible i broke the tps by over-extending the inner rotaional piece, because the code is "throttle/pedal position sensor A circuit low input." the code now throws immediately at startup, so i am assuming when the tps tries to recalibrate itself it is getting incorrect volts because it is broken. I already slotted it to get closer to the screws lining up. I would rather be able to buy another $30 part than goto a shop.
#13
You really need to get a scanner on there. In another post, you asked if the HPP could read the PCM.... yes, it can in OBD-II cars if you have the "scan cartridge" accessory for it.
You could also pull the TPS sensor, and measure the resistance between the ground and the signal output pins, from full closed to full open. I could check mine and compare it for you. Somewhere I have the measurements I've taken in the past, since I had a problem with the TPS sensor that I eventually tracked down to two wires being reversed when they replaced the TPS connector when my stroker was being built and wired up to a MoTeC engine mangement system.
You could also pull the TPS sensor, and measure the resistance between the ground and the signal output pins, from full closed to full open. I could check mine and compare it for you. Somewhere I have the measurements I've taken in the past, since I had a problem with the TPS sensor that I eventually tracked down to two wires being reversed when they replaced the TPS connector when my stroker was being built and wired up to a MoTeC engine mangement system.
#14
i have been in dire need of a scanner for quite some time. I am pretty sure my tps is broken though, it broke on me once before and it is very similar to what it is doin now. The last time i broke it and it was obvious, i was being dumb and twisted the sensor until it clicke a few times, but that was on a stock tb and my extended warranty. It is a 96 m6. The damage done this time is less severe, so i think thats why it is more driveable. Ill try to get the voltage in a bit, i am at work so it will be off an on working on it. thanks for the help.
#15
It appears I may be retarded. So I went out and bought a new tps, did a side by side comparo and the old unit was bad. I modify and intall the new unit and I still get a code. I am pissed. I go home and sleep for a bit, then i go and see if the tps needed to be rotated... it did, about the same as on the bbk. I am red in the face, go to the car, rotate the tps, reset my computer and start it up to get no code. I appreciate all the help and advice from everyone, though i may be retarded, dont count on seeing me in the special olympics anytime soon.
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tdigger9899
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
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09-07-2015 10:56 AM