SSCamaro

I did a search on this and have not found anything, in 2 days anyways.

Can someone chime in and let me know how hard it is to remove (if at all possible) and re install in a 1997 camaro? thanks.

P.S. I will probably have the exhaust off and the car has an auto behind the engine.

526 SS 96

No, getting the oil pan off is very easy. It's pulling the engine that is the most time consuming. Why do you want to take the pan off?

Alex94TAGT

What he said.

I managed to do it without pulling the engine, but I had to remove the transmission (T56) & raise the engine a little bit. Even then, it was a battle to work it through the crank throws, and I had to remove the oil pump while it was still inside the pan.

Not fun, but it can be done. It's real easy with the engine on a stand though.

SSCamaro

Yes, the engine will be in the car

I am getting a LT1 camaro from a guy that has 51k on it and I want to replace all the loer bearings as preventive maintnance before "I" beat the sheeeat out of it for the next 200k miles. No telling how badly he beat it before I got it. I also would like to put in a high volume pump with a 40-50lb spring, I dont think I need 80lbs or even 60lbs of preassure as long as I have some volume to it, I am happy.

526 SS 96

Dude, don't touch it. Waaaaayyyyyy more trouble than it's worth. It won't work out the way you think it will.

SSCamaro

It wont work out the way I think, lol? How is that? trust me, i am not about to go diggin in blindly and I have replaced many a bearings, so, that should not be too big of a deal. The main problem would be dropping the pan, if that in fact is a problem, which I am trying to find out, so, ANY info is always helpful.

If the guy who had it before me DID indeed beat the **** out of it, what am I to do for insurance, suck it up and take a chance when I have great mechanical skills? Actually I would if it really IS a big pain in the ****, but, I plan to get a set of headers on there too, so, the exhaust would be out of the way for sure.

Anywhoo, I am watching your advice closely, dont think I am not, but, would like some other opinions too.

Javier97Z28

Ugh replace all the lower end bearings with the engine in the car? Are you planning on replacing cam bearings too?

If you really wanna do all that I'd say pull the engine. To get the proper access you need IMO you'd need to pull the kmember, a few more bolts and disconnecting a few wires and the whole motor can come out the bottom and you can do this on a stand.

Alex94TAGT

Fully agree with 525 SS & Javier. You cannot realistically replace the rotating assembly's bearings (mains/rods) with the engine still in the vehicle. To do it right, the engine needs to come out. That is, unless you're a magician.

Unless you were just considering the rod bearings, you'd otherwise have to pull the crankshaft and measure bearing clearances with precision tools (micrometers/dial bore gauge/dial indicators/etc). That would be near impossible while working under the car. Let alone the safety concerns -- I've dropped a 65-pound forged crankshaft on my bare foot before, but I really don't think I'd want it falling on my face.

51,000 miles isn't too many, but if you're that concerned, I'd pull it and do it right. However, unless you hear any wooden knocking noises, I wouldn't be overly concerned.

Sweetred95ta

I agree.

arcticz28the383

Has anyone tried just removing the k-member and taking the oil pan off before? With the engine supported from above. Im going to be getting a canton soon I was thinking of doing it that way.

526 SS 96

If it aint broke... don't fix it till it is.

94Camaro_Z_28

LT1's are almost bullet proof.....go ahead and beat the hell out of it, it'll last well beyond 100,000 miles IF you maintain it...I just pulled mine at 140,000 and the bearings look fine, and I've been beating the hell out of it since 68,000.

Sweetred95ta

I wouldn't go as far as saying the bearings are bullet proof. If you don't spin it over 6100-6200 you'll be fine, but anything over and it's a ticking time bomb.

CL21376

I dont mean to hijack your thread....but I've been researching this, and since you brought it up...

Are there any tips/tricks to doing this? I dented my oil pan pretty good during my header install (despite using a phone book on top of the jack).

I loosened the K-Memebr bolts last weekend, and took the bolts out of the engine mounts, but the K-Member wont budge. Do my wheels need to be free floating (for lack of a better term?). My car is on ramps now with 3 1 x 12's stacked between the tires and ramps.

My friends dad has a cherry picker i could use if I wanted to. Would that be an easier approach to raise the engine? And if so, what do I hook it to?

Again...sorry if I hijacked this...

thanks,
CL

SSCamaro

See, thats the problem, I dont know WHAT he has done to it, 6krpm, 7k, 8k, 9k, sometimes, all the time??????

Dont need to nessesarily check the clearance if a stock set of bearings are going back in. Yea, there is a chance that the factory used a oversize somewhere along the lines. I have read a LOT of posts about low end bearing failures and it really scares me.

I WOULD yank it out of the top, but, I rent and live in a little hut with very very close neighbors in a home owners association community. I could get away with playing with the eninge in the car but I think I would be casted out if I started yanking and spilling things in the driveway. If fact I am sure I would get a verbaly unhappy responce from it, so, if I were to replace bearings, it would be from under the car with the engine still in it.

I am thinking that maybe, just maybe, if I get all the exhaust crap outta the way, I would have access to the motor mounts and could jack the engine up a wee bit, shove some wood in there and be good to go. I have done this plenty of times and its not bad at all, just a little slow and I can deal with that. Crack all the caps a wee bit, let the crank drop, oh, say, .05 and things should just slide around without too much resistance (barings that is). Heck, I am sure i could even whack out the rod bolts and replace them with some ARP's for even more bottom end insurance, but, removing the oil pan is what has me concerned......that damned oil pan.............................