97TA-WS6-Con

What are the implications to removing the thermostat?

If one assume that the car is only out on warm spring / summer days, is there a problem in removing the thermostat completely?

Injuneer

If the coolant temps are too low, the PCM will not go into closed loop, leaving you with the possbility of an incorrect A/F ratio. 4th Gens aren't too bad, because they will go into closed loop in the range of 120-140degF, and I suspect the coolant would run at least that high, even without the t'stat.

Running the engine too cool means the oil isn't as likely to get up to a high enough temperature to drive off the water and other light hydrocarbons (fuel) that contaminate it. Not good for the oil or the bearings.

Reducing the coolant temp reduces the thermal efficiency of the engine, reducing power output. Within reason, this loss can be offset by the reduced air charge temperature, and by adding a bit more timing, but go low enough, and you'll lose power.

BUBBA

The t stat is for keeping the engine at the proper operating temperature, not just for keeping it below a certain temp. If you remove the stat it may run too cool. On the other hand your pcm is programed to turn the fans on at a certain temperature and if the engine doesn't reach that temp, then the fans probably won't turn on if that temp is not reached.

I wouldn't remove it. If you want to run a cooler stat, switch to a 160, but you will still need a reprogram to turn the fans on. JMHO

97TA-WS6-Con

I guess I should add some info here guys.

I'm running a FAST and for the moment the fans are on a manual switch. (thus no knock retard, closed loop, or PCM issues)

Problem is the car is running hot after this most recent build. Runs at about 213 - 215 in traffic with the fans on and - strangely - runs at 217 - 223 whilst on the freeway (with the fans one).

I have a 180 stat in there now. I don't know what the problem is. Its not overheating right now but when I park the rad is "rumbling and grumbling". The water in the rad is certainly hot but the water in the heating hoses SEEMS to be hotter then the water in the rad hose. Could the stat be faulty? sticky? Most guys are able to run stock cooling systems as far as I know.

shoebox

The LT1 water pump has several passages. The LT1 thermostat routes the coolant through the proper passages when open. If you remove it, the coolant wil not be routed correctly. Coolant will mix in the pump. Some heated coolant will not make it to the radiator and some coolant from the radiator will not make to the engine. IMO, better to leave the thermostat in place, so it can do it's job.

97TA-WS6-Con

As always Shoebox you are an encylopedia of info.

So if the thermostat routes water through different passages, if the thermo was not working right, what would the symptoms be? Would the water in the rad still get hot even if things were not circulating right? I mean if the thermo stayed CLOSED all the time, should the rad not stay pretty cold and the engine hoses get super hot?

The rad water is definately hot, when I open the cap it hisses and steams and boils away but perhaps the water is not circulating in some way.

shoebox

If the thermostat did not open, there would not be enough flow to/from the radaiator to keep the engine cool. Your engine would get hot, but the radiator would not.

69gto96z

I am having some what of the same problems. Even with my fans on high speed with a fan switch, it still climbs on highway or traffic, I placed a more detailed description of my problem in the LT1 Engine Tech section, if anybody has any input.

PurePonyPounder

I've been driving my 93Z28 without a thermostat closing in on 9 yrs now. Some people in here who don't use a thermostat have gone to lengths of eliminating their coolant head tubes. Anyone experience any problems when they performed this mod?

Johnny

madcat

Only over heating problems I've seen on a camaro is when the air scoop under the front was removed. (or at least I think it's called a air scoop)

white/blackss

MINE DID THE SAME THING AND COME TO FIND OUT I DIDNT HAVE THE PROPER AMOUNT OF COOLANT MIXED WITH WATER.

IF THERES TOO MUCH WATER YOUR SYSTEM WILL OVERHEAT.
I DONT THINK 213 IS ALL THAT BAD. I HAVE THE 160 T STAT AND MINE RUNS AT ABOUT THE SAME WHEN SITTING AT AN IDLE.

ZMAN Z28

I don't mean to argue, and I don't condone it. I ran my car for about a year before without any antifreeze. It didn't overheat till the radiator got so corroded, it wouldn't flow water. I can't prove running 100% tap water was the culprit, but I assume thats the reason my radiator corroded. Isn't it a NHRA regulation you aren't supose to not run antifreeze while racing at an NHRA sanctioned track? I'm not sure, just asking.

97TA-WS6-Con

I have been running with water right now. I'm pretty sure that there is no cooling differance of water over antifreeze / coolant. I'm just running water until I have the car "set up" and know I don't have to drain the rad again.

I had to add a lot more water yesterday and there are no leaks so it may be that even after repeated attempts, I still don't have the system bleed right.

It is still running in the 210 - 220 range but given I blew up the blower last night, I'll be running NA for a while. Have to see if that makes any differance.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=383917

shoebox

Water dissipates heat better than coolant. In a healthy cooling system, straight water would keep it cooler. A 50/50 mix of coolant to water gives you corrosion and anti-freeze protection.

diehardgm

Only trouble is that straight water will boil at a lower temperature than a good mixture of water and coolant.