Removing Valve Rocker Arms Necessary to remove heads?
04-20-2006, 12:11 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 66
Removing Valve Rocker Arms Necessary to remove heads?
I am going to be pulling my heads off this weekend to fix some mangled header bolt holes. I have been studying the helmes service manual and everything makes pretty good sense accept for the step right before removing the head bolts and taking the heads off.
It goes through the process of removing the "Valve Rocker Arms & Pushrod Assembly". This may be a dumb question but is this necessary and if so, for my general knowledge...why? Also in the manual, after the installation section on the "Valve Rocker Arms & Pushrod Assembly", a very detailed section on adjusting the valves is included. Is this step necessary? I am not messing with my cam, just removing the heads.
Any insight is greatly appreciated,
-Gabriel Terrel
It goes through the process of removing the "Valve Rocker Arms & Pushrod Assembly". This may be a dumb question but is this necessary and if so, for my general knowledge...why? Also in the manual, after the installation section on the "Valve Rocker Arms & Pushrod Assembly", a very detailed section on adjusting the valves is included. Is this step necessary? I am not messing with my cam, just removing the heads.
Any insight is greatly appreciated,
-Gabriel Terrel
04-20-2006, 12:25 PM
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 55
Re: Removing Valve Rocker Arms Necessary to remove heads?
If you don't remove the rockers then you're gonna have the pushrods fallin out all over when you pull the heads off and then you'll still have to remove the rockers when you put the heads back on in order to get the pushrods back in and to adjust them. The rockers do get in the way of the head bolts too.
04-20-2006, 01:33 PM
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Pgh, PA
Posts: 2,628
Re: Removing Valve Rocker Arms Necessary to remove heads?
Like he said.
They have to come off.
Adjusting the valves is alot easier then they make it sound.
Spin the motor over so the valve should be closed. Tighten the adjustner nut down until you can no longer spin the pushrod freely. As soon as you feel resistance, this is zero lash, now tighten to your amount of preload. On stock studs/rockers you should with with I think one half of a turn.
Now is a excellent time to upgrade though. And if the heads are off, changing the valve springs will be a breeze. Throw in some good springs (918's) new locks and retainers, and get some GMPP 1.6RR's with GM guideplates and Summit hardened pushrods. It owuld be the ultimate "cheap" but reliable valve train. Ideally though, youd be better off with good 10* locks and retainers, and a good pushrod like a Comp Hi-Tech. O and if you do this, upgrade to a 7/16" stud. Much more stable valve train than a 3/8" is.
If the heads are off, mod it now. Youll regret it alter if you dont.
They have to come off.
Adjusting the valves is alot easier then they make it sound.
Spin the motor over so the valve should be closed. Tighten the adjustner nut down until you can no longer spin the pushrod freely. As soon as you feel resistance, this is zero lash, now tighten to your amount of preload. On stock studs/rockers you should with with I think one half of a turn.
Now is a excellent time to upgrade though. And if the heads are off, changing the valve springs will be a breeze. Throw in some good springs (918's) new locks and retainers, and get some GMPP 1.6RR's with GM guideplates and Summit hardened pushrods. It owuld be the ultimate "cheap" but reliable valve train. Ideally though, youd be better off with good 10* locks and retainers, and a good pushrod like a Comp Hi-Tech. O and if you do this, upgrade to a 7/16" stud. Much more stable valve train than a 3/8" is.
If the heads are off, mod it now. Youll regret it alter if you dont.
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