rpmatredline

Hey man iI had the same problem in the family mobile (Astro Van) a few months back. they put on new brakes, rotors , turned the rear drums, another set of pads, several trips back to the garage , cause they couldn't figure it out, $450.00 later and several visits, it finally got fixed. The problem: the front brake lines were breaking down inside and needed replaced . he said the brakes must have got really hot at one time or another. That fixed my Van . The whole time i was thinking a suspension problem, I was wrong. My $.02

anasazi

tonight i replaced

all 4 rotors (new ones are MUCH thicker than old ones on the front)
rear brake pads
front drivers side caliper (it was free, lifetime warranty)


pretty much goes in a straight line till i hit the brakes... then it pulls left.

the old front drivers rotor was noticably warped, and it had just been turned about a week ago.


so, i'm thinking ABS?



here's my theory...

something is causing drivers side caliper to grab harder than passenger side caliper, causing more heat on that rotor... warping it pretty bad (old rotor was thin, turned too many times) which caused the rotor to be in constant contact with the caliper, causing it to drag at all times after a few hours.

just can't figure out whats causing the drivers side caliper to grab harder than the passenger side caliper.

i checked the brake lines, they didn't seem flat or even bent out of their stock locations. they looked fine. only concern is that they're fairly close to the hooker longtubes slip fit primary tube. how close is too close?

scooters97ss

Should be AT LEAST one inch airspace between them.

slopokrodrigez

How much $ you gona throw at this problem until you do a pressure test? This will give you an indication if you have a line problem or something else.

Remember ABS will only release pressure to a wheel that is locking up (spinning slower). When it does, the "low trac" light will come on. Therefore it would be "releasing" the right front not increasing the pressure to left front if indeed the ABS was causing your problem. If your not getting the "low trac" light, that is not your problem. Unless your "low trac" light bulb is burned out and you would know that during the light check test when the key is first turned on.

GET THE PRESSURE TEST DONE!!!!!!!!!!!

Briank8811

Just to ask a few very, very basic questions......When you replaced your rim did you use the same size as the others(99% chance you did). Also do you have a different tire size than the others anywhere on the car?(This could make on wheel spin a little faster and cause ABS to SPAZZ.

anasazi

tire wasn't ruined, replaced with another stock salad shooter. have since replaced all rims with 5 spokes.

i'm trying to find someone with a pressure tester... those suckers are expensive

it'd be cheaper to buy an ABS module than to buy a pressure test kit

slopokrodrigez

Any good brake shop could do the test. Note that I said GOOD not midas or meineke.

Remember it's not the ABS module causing your problem. I like what the guy said about the lines. I would change over to the braided lines.

Dave89IROC

dealer will have the pressure tester, you will need to convince them to use it though

thermwood1

I agree with the pressure test. Before you throw more money at it by replacing things that might not help, get the pressure test done. This might eliminate a lot of headaches.

anasazi

rubber lines have already been replaced

only things in the brake system that hasn't been replaced is the hard steel lines, ABS module, master cylinder, and brake booster.