Replacement Front Brake Rotors
06-19-2003, 10:45 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Anderson, SC
Posts: 131
Replacement Front Brake Rotors
Who offers the best value in new front brake rotors? Thunder Racing offers slotted rotors (not drilled) for $86 each. Are these durable rotors? Will they eventually warp like the original units?
What about the AutoZone (AIMCO #55014) rotors - these cost only $30 each, but I've been told that these are solid and extremely durable. Is this true?
Thanks for the help!
What about the AutoZone (AIMCO #55014) rotors - these cost only $30 each, but I've been told that these are solid and extremely durable. Is this true?
Thanks for the help!
06-19-2003, 11:10 AM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: High Ridge, MO
Posts: 2,193
The slotted rotors will eventually wear down and warp, but they can be turned just like a regular rotor. I have been told if you put the slotted rotors on the front, your car will stop on a dime. That is what I am going to do when mine warp again. The autozone ones would be fine too, just depends on the money you want to spend and the performance you want.
Benji
Benji
06-20-2003, 01:17 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Kansas City suburb of
Posts: 2,734
Autozone also has Aimco Extreme cross drilled and slotted rotors.
I just installed these and they look great and seem like they did not cut corners on manufacturing. Can,t tell ya how they work yet cause I still have to put my new tranny in.
They run 100 bucks each and are a direct replacement for stock.
I just installed these and they look great and seem like they did not cut corners on manufacturing. Can,t tell ya how they work yet cause I still have to put my new tranny in.
They run 100 bucks each and are a direct replacement for stock.
06-20-2003, 03:32 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Kansas City suburb of
Posts: 2,734
Yeah thats why I got em cause they look cool.
Doesn,t matter at all that they stop better and dissipate heat better and don,t warp as easily.
Naaa...couldn,t be that.
There a big step up from the crappy stock ones that I went through 4 sets of.
Doesn,t matter at all that they stop better and dissipate heat better and don,t warp as easily.
Naaa...couldn,t be that.
There a big step up from the crappy stock ones that I went through 4 sets of.
06-20-2003, 03:44 PM
#7
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Posts: 3,505
Originally posted by revtime
Yeah thats why I got em cause they look cool.
Doesn,t matter at all that they stop better and dissipate heat better and don,t warp as easily.
Naaa...couldn,t be that.
There a big step up from the crappy stock ones that I went through 4 sets of.
Yeah thats why I got em cause they look cool.
Doesn,t matter at all that they stop better and dissipate heat better and don,t warp as easily.
Naaa...couldn,t be that.
There a big step up from the crappy stock ones that I went through 4 sets of.
I just posted this in the lounge a few days ago- taken from an advance tech thread i posted a while back-
look up that thread for more information
Mark,
Not to nitpick, but i would like to throw in my two cents here.
I work at TRW automotive in their Livonia facility, which is their Braking systems research and development facility.
First off, I would like to say I am a co -op student there and not a full time engineer till i get out of school (assuming we both want me to work there at that time). WIth that said, most of this information is second hand and comes fom the senior engineers. Most of it actually come from my former supervisor who was a big autocross guy and former F-body owner.
Slots and cross drills are not for cooling and provide a very minimal amount of cooling. the majority of the cooling comes from the vents and the size of the rotor and its thickness.
The vents can create some pretty nice air flow inside and around the rotor.
The slots and holes do not have a significant amound or air flow around them. Althought this can be debated since real world air flow in that region is a stab in the dark on a good day. It is pretty well agreed upon that those slots and hole do very little for cooling though. The air in there is almost stationary when compared to the vents and the air along side the rotor (particularly outboard braking plate). The air is flowing from left to right (when looking at the rotor head on- looking at the wheel stud holes). Very little air is flowing from the inboard to ourboard rotor plates or vice versa. The air inside the vent holes is pretty stagnant in there compared to the air along the outboard rotor and air in the vents. The vents can work because they utilize the air flowing from left to right, not "into" the rotor. They are like little fans.
Plus the amount of surface area has probobly trippled or quadrroopled with these vents. here is now two more surfaces in the middle (effectivly doubling surface area right there) and the additional surface area of the 4 surfaces of the vent.
If i had to guess, I bet that there is VERY little air flow inside the wheel well t begin with- and particualry under our cars relative to most other cars. The low stance and air dam really should do a good job of making sure air doesn't go crazy under there.
As far as breaking power goes, they will reduce your breaking power since a good percentage of your friction is lost. i'd guess around 10% of your pad is no longer creating any friction.
These slots and holes are for releasing gasses that build up under high heat and pressure of panic stops (or aggresive driving). With the pads used in todays vehicles, there are EXTREMLY little gasses prodeced, if any at all. If there is any, its prety much negligable.
As far as drilling your own (did i read that somewhere?), I am pretty sure.
a. slotted/cross drilled rotors are thicker/stronger than OEM
b. it has to be PEFRECTLY balanced or life will be ****ty
c. It is extremely hard to drill evenely, effectively and safely.
You have to drill correctly (dont crack the rotor!), symetrically (dont throw it off balance) and you CANT HIT ANY OF THE VENTS!. doing the last two tegether will prove to be a challenge since most rotors have a prime number (hence odd) number of vents. This is done purposely do make as FEW LINES of symetry as possible. Less lines of symetry = less noise for a mutitude of reasons over my head, I didn't really get it when my boss explained it to me. So drilling symeticrially and not hitting nonsymetrical vents might prove to be a mathematical nightmare!
In this long winded responce, i kind hoped to get at this. Slotted and cross drilled are realy only good for appearance mods. If anything they will probobly warp and/or crack faster with all things being equal (which they are not for obvious reasons)
Personally, I am going to try some stuff out and see what happens. Although it probobly wont be as cost effective as the LS1 or C5 brake upgrade- I am drawn to doing it. I guess my natural curriousity is doing it to me. I am going to attempt to make two ducts (one for each front rotor) to cool the inboard rotor. Kind of like "ram air" to the rotors if you will. I will do some measurements to see how well it stops- although i cant really guarntee accuraccy. I am also going to swap in the most exensive/best brake fluid i can find and see what that does- maybe even find some crazy way of cooling it Then i'll probobly just do the LS1 brake upgrade and get some Hawk Pads. Thats probobly the best bang for the buck (well, the majority of you guys already have the "LS1 brake upgrade."
With the above said, a set of high quality "solid" vented (99% are now a days) rotors would probobly suit you best for your application. Who makes them or what they cost is beyond me. I was just doing some late night LS1 reading tonight and stumbled across this. I would't worry too much though about the car, warped rotors are pretty common on LS1's. Hell a drive through a puddle/car wash after a long drive can do it.
Mark please dont (and I hope you didn't) take this as an attack on you or your buisness, merchandise or expertise. I was really hesitant to type all of this seeing how you are a new supporter of this website. I am really all for supporters of this site and encourage/suggest to member to buy from here whenever possible.
here is another thread about rotors that I wrote a few days ago, cant remember if its relavent or not... i think its mainly just production methods.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/show...or&pagenumber=2
Anyway, its amost midnight, i'm tired and its raining so I think I am going for a jog. I've been staring at rotor blueprints and talking about them too much. I think its bordering unhealthy at this point
please pardon my terrible spelling and -i'm sure- numerious typos.
Not to nitpick, but i would like to throw in my two cents here.
I work at TRW automotive in their Livonia facility, which is their Braking systems research and development facility.
First off, I would like to say I am a co -op student there and not a full time engineer till i get out of school (assuming we both want me to work there at that time). WIth that said, most of this information is second hand and comes fom the senior engineers. Most of it actually come from my former supervisor who was a big autocross guy and former F-body owner.
Slots and cross drills are not for cooling and provide a very minimal amount of cooling. the majority of the cooling comes from the vents and the size of the rotor and its thickness.
The vents can create some pretty nice air flow inside and around the rotor.
The slots and holes do not have a significant amound or air flow around them. Althought this can be debated since real world air flow in that region is a stab in the dark on a good day. It is pretty well agreed upon that those slots and hole do very little for cooling though. The air in there is almost stationary when compared to the vents and the air along side the rotor (particularly outboard braking plate). The air is flowing from left to right (when looking at the rotor head on- looking at the wheel stud holes). Very little air is flowing from the inboard to ourboard rotor plates or vice versa. The air inside the vent holes is pretty stagnant in there compared to the air along the outboard rotor and air in the vents. The vents can work because they utilize the air flowing from left to right, not "into" the rotor. They are like little fans.
Plus the amount of surface area has probobly trippled or quadrroopled with these vents. here is now two more surfaces in the middle (effectivly doubling surface area right there) and the additional surface area of the 4 surfaces of the vent.
If i had to guess, I bet that there is VERY little air flow inside the wheel well t begin with- and particualry under our cars relative to most other cars. The low stance and air dam really should do a good job of making sure air doesn't go crazy under there.
As far as breaking power goes, they will reduce your breaking power since a good percentage of your friction is lost. i'd guess around 10% of your pad is no longer creating any friction.
These slots and holes are for releasing gasses that build up under high heat and pressure of panic stops (or aggresive driving). With the pads used in todays vehicles, there are EXTREMLY little gasses prodeced, if any at all. If there is any, its prety much negligable.
As far as drilling your own (did i read that somewhere?), I am pretty sure.
a. slotted/cross drilled rotors are thicker/stronger than OEM
b. it has to be PEFRECTLY balanced or life will be ****ty
c. It is extremely hard to drill evenely, effectively and safely.
You have to drill correctly (dont crack the rotor!), symetrically (dont throw it off balance) and you CANT HIT ANY OF THE VENTS!. doing the last two tegether will prove to be a challenge since most rotors have a prime number (hence odd) number of vents. This is done purposely do make as FEW LINES of symetry as possible. Less lines of symetry = less noise for a mutitude of reasons over my head, I didn't really get it when my boss explained it to me. So drilling symeticrially and not hitting nonsymetrical vents might prove to be a mathematical nightmare!
In this long winded responce, i kind hoped to get at this. Slotted and cross drilled are realy only good for appearance mods. If anything they will probobly warp and/or crack faster with all things being equal (which they are not for obvious reasons)
Personally, I am going to try some stuff out and see what happens. Although it probobly wont be as cost effective as the LS1 or C5 brake upgrade- I am drawn to doing it. I guess my natural curriousity is doing it to me. I am going to attempt to make two ducts (one for each front rotor) to cool the inboard rotor. Kind of like "ram air" to the rotors if you will. I will do some measurements to see how well it stops- although i cant really guarntee accuraccy. I am also going to swap in the most exensive/best brake fluid i can find and see what that does- maybe even find some crazy way of cooling it Then i'll probobly just do the LS1 brake upgrade and get some Hawk Pads. Thats probobly the best bang for the buck (well, the majority of you guys already have the "LS1 brake upgrade."
With the above said, a set of high quality "solid" vented (99% are now a days) rotors would probobly suit you best for your application. Who makes them or what they cost is beyond me. I was just doing some late night LS1 reading tonight and stumbled across this. I would't worry too much though about the car, warped rotors are pretty common on LS1's. Hell a drive through a puddle/car wash after a long drive can do it.
Mark please dont (and I hope you didn't) take this as an attack on you or your buisness, merchandise or expertise. I was really hesitant to type all of this seeing how you are a new supporter of this website. I am really all for supporters of this site and encourage/suggest to member to buy from here whenever possible.
here is another thread about rotors that I wrote a few days ago, cant remember if its relavent or not... i think its mainly just production methods.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/show...or&pagenumber=2
Anyway, its amost midnight, i'm tired and its raining so I think I am going for a jog. I've been staring at rotor blueprints and talking about them too much. I think its bordering unhealthy at this point
please pardon my terrible spelling and -i'm sure- numerious typos.
06-20-2003, 05:06 PM
#10
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Posts: 3,505
Originally posted by joeSS97
Having installed Thunder's Powerslots a while ago I can tell you they stop hella better than the stockers.Especially in the wet.
Having installed Thunder's Powerslots a while ago I can tell you they stop hella better than the stockers.Especially in the wet.
especailly in the wet
first off, slotted rotors dont give more braking power.
second, even if they did- i can lock my wheels up (or egnage ABS) in a heartbeat in rain, snow and sand (truck). What does this mean? there isn't a lack of braking power, there is a lack of friction between to road and the ground. that is your limiting factor.
trying to get more braking power when you can already lock the wheels is like having a steel chain with one thread link and replacing all the steel links with titanium. its the lack of friction between the raod and tire. when there is more friction there, you can brake harder.
Last edited by treyZ28; 06-20-2003 at 05:09 PM.
06-20-2003, 05:17 PM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Kansas City suburb of
Posts: 2,734
I have seen this debated so much it makes my head hurt.
I have warped 4 sets of rotors (well 3, I am counting the ones that were on it when I bought the car, factory ones I am assuming which were warped) I mixed up different manufacturers but admit I have not tried them all. I am going with something kinda expensive and cross drilled and slotted to see if I can find something that will last. I have seen lots o race cars and such with these type rotors so there has to be something to it.
If you know of a brand of rotor that won,t warp in 15 to 25k please let me know. Something that does not cost Baer or Wilwood prices please.
I have warped 4 sets of rotors (well 3, I am counting the ones that were on it when I bought the car, factory ones I am assuming which were warped) I mixed up different manufacturers but admit I have not tried them all. I am going with something kinda expensive and cross drilled and slotted to see if I can find something that will last. I have seen lots o race cars and such with these type rotors so there has to be something to it.
If you know of a brand of rotor that won,t warp in 15 to 25k please let me know. Something that does not cost Baer or Wilwood prices please.
06-20-2003, 06:15 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Grande Prairie
Posts: 43
K, locking up the tires can be easy, but for me, i do a lot of highway driving, at fairly good speeds (140-160kmphr) sometimes faster, sometimes slower. When you stomp on em at 160km/hr, they heat up pretty quick, i cracked the hell out of the stock ones, smelled the brake pads burnin all the time. With my new rotors, I never smell the pads, they don't seem to fade as badly either. Your right, in a one stop competition, the regular rotors would probably do just as good, but do several high speed stops and see. I also really think they stop better in the rain, but maybe it is in my head. jus my .02
06-20-2003, 06:48 PM
#14
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: looking for a flow bench so Brook and I can race
Posts: 3,505
Originally posted by sorryofficer
K, locking up the tires can be easy, but for me, i do a lot of highway driving, at fairly good speeds (140-160kmphr) sometimes faster, sometimes slower. When you stomp on em at 160km/hr, they heat up pretty quick, i cracked the hell out of the stock ones, smelled the brake pads burnin all the time. With my new rotors, I never smell the pads, they don't seem to fade as badly either. Your right, in a one stop competition, the regular rotors would probably do just as good, but do several high speed stops and see. I also really think they stop better in the rain, but maybe it is in my head. jus my .02
K, locking up the tires can be easy, but for me, i do a lot of highway driving, at fairly good speeds (140-160kmphr) sometimes faster, sometimes slower. When you stomp on em at 160km/hr, they heat up pretty quick, i cracked the hell out of the stock ones, smelled the brake pads burnin all the time. With my new rotors, I never smell the pads, they don't seem to fade as badly either. Your right, in a one stop competition, the regular rotors would probably do just as good, but do several high speed stops and see. I also really think they stop better in the rain, but maybe it is in my head. jus my .02
slotted rotors and crosss drilled have less mass so they are prone to heat fade.
second
its 100% in your head. in rain - any any other time you can lock your wheels- you are not limited by stoping force but by a lack of friciton
06-20-2003, 07:07 PM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Grande Prairie
Posts: 43
I hate to argue with you Trey, cause i know you know your $**T, but i saw something in your last statement that caught my eye. Just before locking up the tires is the limit of braking, and that does depend on the tires when your doing speeds below say 70km/hr, but have you ever tried to lock em up at speeds around 160km/hr. I've stomped on my brakes with everything i've got (i'm 6'2 200lbs) and i haven't been able to get the abs to kick in yet (thank god). I have been able to get it to go when i've been cruising around town though at sane speeds. All this was with the stock brakes, the same goes more or less with the new ones as well, cept they feel a lot stronger, maybe its the pads though. My point is, better brakes might not make much of a difference around town, but they will at higher speeds. The C5 has pretty good braking stock, it has the ability to kick in the abs right? Well, why does Lingenfelter upgrade the brakes(with slotted or cross drilled rotors) when he does his full car packages?
Last edited by sorryofficer; 06-20-2003 at 07:13 PM.