TS 95Z

I'm going to be replacing it with a prothane one tomorrow and was wondering if anyone had any experience with doing this? I'm going to roll the front onto my ramps, but didn't know how i should support the rear. should i have the suspension under a normal load as if it was on the ground, or do i need to let it stretch? basically, how/where should i jack the rear of the car to make it the easiest?

QCKZ28

i changed mine it was a !!b1tch!! i blocked the front wheels. jacked both sides of the rear up on the frame, used a jack under the rear end housing to support it and help with installation. the poly mount is a really tight fit, took me a little while to figure out how to do it (i believe i even took the entire torque arm out, trying to make it work) but i dont think that is necessary, you have to take the tranny mount out and lower it down to get the torque arm bushing right. i noticed a difference with mine (but mine was shot) seemed like it put more power to the pavement. oh and its like the motor mounts you have to drill the old bushing out of the shell. hope you have better luck than me. let me know how it goes
jesse

revtime

Yeah, what QCKZ28 said.
I had a dremel with cutoff wheels (about 8 of em )
it is a bi*ch.
Wish I had not messed with it now, I got a BMR torque arm in a GP so it was worthless for me to go to all the trouble.

QCKZ28

i started the job thinking i could have it done in an hour or so....yeah right....it took me about all day revtime could you tell a difference after the BMr ta?

revtime

No, I have not installed it yet. Still need to put my tranny in.
From what I have been told an adjustable TA is a very worthwhile mod, several people I have talked too swear by them.

teke184

i did mine and i can give a second opinion on the "it was a b!tch"

i used a bench grinder to remove the heads of the rivets, took about 10 seconds per rivet.

it will definately be advantageous to have a second set of hands for the reassembly. it was difficult to pry the bracket (it's like a clamshell) around the new bushing...WHILE trying to start the treads on the bolt. i ended up using a crow bar for some extra leverage since i was by myself.

just take your time and take some breaks so you don't get frustrated. and don't be afraid to use some force on that thing.

as for feel:
i had a hurst short thow shifter from SLP, and a lou's short stick which doesn't have the vibration dampener at the base like stock. and i didn't notice any increase in noise or vibration. it did seem to help with wheel hop. granted i already had LCA's. but what i did notice, since i had really crappy tires (chirp 4th w/ basic boltons) was that when i powershifted to second, the tires just spun. there was no noticable wheelhop inside the car...i could almost not tell that the tires were spinning they spun so smooth!

worthwhile since i couldn't afford the BMR torque arm that i really wanted!

GREGG 97Z

I just installed a poly one the other week. I found a trick to making it easier after having removed the torque arm a few times before when I had the trans out. I pull the front of the car up on the ramps, then raised the back of the car with a floor jack (I just jack the whole thing up by the rear diff with a block of wood under it) then support the back of the car with jack stands where the subframe connectors mount in the rear. Then you can use the floor jack on the rear diff to adjust the load on the torque arm, let off on it first then slowly start jacking it up and watch the torque arm move, you can get it to the point where there is no load on it. Taking the load off it makes it much easier to work with removing and re installing the new bushing. This way you are not wrestling with the arm and the position of the rear while trying to get the parts back into place. Also once I got the new bushing on I held the clamshell piece in place with a pair of needle nose vice grips to be able to get that pita little top bolt in that holds it on. Getting that bolt in is the worst part of the whole job, clamping that piece in place makes it way easier.

Gregg

TS 95Z

ok, i'm having problems getting the top bolt and the stud out because there's not enough room between the holes and the tunnel wall. I've tried raising and lowering the transmission a little, but it still doesn't help. Would it be alright if I tried pushing the output shaft the opposite direction or what? there seriously isn't any room for me to get them out.

BTW: I have an A4, i believe the M6s are a little easier to do this to.

Tires_Smokin

Dang, this sounds like death. Im about to throw in a BMR T.A and I hope I get this Biznatch on with no problems.

I already have a few holes on my wall in the sheetrock of my garage from getting pissed off!

revtime

Sounds hard but take the bolt on your tranny mount loose and put a board under the tranny pan and jack it up now remove the crossmember and let the tranny down slowly until you get the torque arm bushing off. I was removing my tranny when doing this but I could not get it out either until I dropped the crossmember.

ZZtop

Since you mentioned removing the crossmember and taking the tranny mount loose, would changing the torque arm bushing also be a good time to change the tranny mount? Kill two birds with one stone kinda thing. I am thinking about doing this cause I have some wheel hop, but I was hoping it would be easier, oh well. Is it a better idea to do LCA relocation brackets on my car, or poly torque arm bushing?

revtime

With the Pro kit you might get better results with the relocation brackets.
If doing the TA bushing it would be worthwhile to do the tranny mount at the same time.

All_Z_Way

Where did you purchase the new TA bushing?

I have a clunking that I beleive is the TA bushing and was thinking of just putting in stock rubber.

revtime

Autozone should be able to order you a poly TA bushing.
The stock one is riveted to the housing so I am not sure if you can get it through normal parts stores, (O, reilly, autozone, advance, etc) Dealership or boneyard may be the only way to get one.
Not positive on this so check the local parts store first.

TS 95Z

i ordered both the bushing and mount form thunderracing, they are from Prothane. I should've took the crossmember out, but i didnt want to drop my true duals which probably would've been easier in the end. I did notice a difference after getting it installed and have since installed LCAs and a panhard. Hope to see how all of these helped at the track friday