by request new thread, hope this helps guys
03-30-2008, 06:56 PM
#31
Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 280
we have been telling him this for 2 threads and over a week yet he refuses to believe us because his "builder" says that cant be true
other than needing a new builder you need shorter pushrods, if your just to lazy to check them swap them for a set of 7.150 rods and take it for a ride and let us know how that goes
other than needing a new builder you need shorter pushrods, if your just to lazy to check them swap them for a set of 7.150 rods and take it for a ride and let us know how that goes
But seriously dude, why are you getting upset enough to want to spend all this money to change things. Its in your pushrod length they are .250 longer than stock and the head was milled .040 so you really should have a push rod that is about .290" shorter than what you have now.
03-30-2008, 07:42 PM
#33
Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 280
03-30-2008, 07:43 PM
#34
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Oshkosh, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,309
04-01-2008, 11:37 AM
#38
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Central, KY
Posts: 147
You all also realize this thing had longer than stock valves and the valve job isn't in the stock location as well so it has more of a stem protrusion.
Also do you all know what would happen if the pushrod was .300 to long? The rocker arm would probably be rolling off the tip of the valve. And if there was to much preload on the lifters the valves would probably be held open and the dyno graph would be 10 kinds of screwed.
Also do you all know what would happen if the pushrod was .300 to long? The rocker arm would probably be rolling off the tip of the valve. And if there was to much preload on the lifters the valves would probably be held open and the dyno graph would be 10 kinds of screwed.
04-01-2008, 02:54 PM
#40
04-01-2008, 03:10 PM
#41
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Central, KY
Posts: 147
well the specs are 224/230 .600/.606 on a 108. It's a Brett Bauer grind cam....
And the car has been taken apart now by 4 different people. I picked the length, bluecat readjusted the preload, another guy took it apart to swap the springs out but didn't, and then another guy put another set of 1918's on and reshimmed everything. So if something was bad wrong... especially that wrong someone would have caught it. Not to mention how many times i checked and rechecked with different lengths pushrods with a epoxied stock gm lifter.
And the car has been taken apart now by 4 different people. I picked the length, bluecat readjusted the preload, another guy took it apart to swap the springs out but didn't, and then another guy put another set of 1918's on and reshimmed everything. So if something was bad wrong... especially that wrong someone would have caught it. Not to mention how many times i checked and rechecked with different lengths pushrods with a epoxied stock gm lifter.
04-01-2008, 03:57 PM
#42
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,834
Is this guy for real? How much more obvious could it be to you, pushrods way too long. If you wan to continue to throw parts at it and **** more money away be our guest. But it won't cost you anything to check your PR length if you do it yourself.
04-01-2008, 04:08 PM
#43
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Utica, NY and Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 435
just quit "helping" the guy he isnt going to friggen listen, even if it is a small base circle cam, with the heads milled and a smaller gasket it still wouldnt equal a longer pushrod... he's clearly too stupid or stubborn to take nearly everyone on this threads advice about using a shorter pushrod so idk why he bothered to ask for help to begin with
listen man either youre gonna be smart and change ur pushrod length or you just need to get off the board, dont ask for people's help if you aren't going to pay attention to what they have to say
listen man either youre gonna be smart and change ur pushrod length or you just need to get off the board, dont ask for people's help if you aren't going to pay attention to what they have to say
04-01-2008, 05:29 PM
#44
guys i think he gets the point, there are some things you are leaving out
the valves are reccesed into the head along with longer valves, why this was done i have no idea and i would like to find out, for my own knowlege. dont get me wrong i still think the pushrods need to be checked by someone else, only for the simple fact that if the builder is making a mistake he can do it wrong 40 times and never see the problem, eric i am not talking bad about you i just think a fresh set of eyes with there own technique may be neceasarry
the valves are reccesed into the head along with longer valves, why this was done i have no idea and i would like to find out, for my own knowlege. dont get me wrong i still think the pushrods need to be checked by someone else, only for the simple fact that if the builder is making a mistake he can do it wrong 40 times and never see the problem, eric i am not talking bad about you i just think a fresh set of eyes with there own technique may be neceasarry
04-01-2008, 05:39 PM
#45
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Central, KY
Posts: 147
That's the thing, after the car left my shop the preload was redone on all the valves at bluecats. The car then went to another guy who took the valve covers off, checked the installed height. Then they went to another guy who changed the springs to a new set of PAC1218's and installed them at 1.750 and he didn't see anything out of the ordinary either. It's not like i'm the only one who has looked at the car. I checked the sweep with the stock pushrods, i checked them shorter and longer several times with a checking pushrod and that's what it wanted to get the sweep as narrow as possible. It was done with a stock gm lt1 hydrolic lifter epoxied up to act like a solid. And then it was double checked again when i got the pushrods to make sure everything was right.
I just see these cars floating the valves at near the same rpm and both of them are using the same cam and the same springs and both having a problem. And then another guy breaks the same set of springs. To me it seems obvious. But you all really need to understand that simple 3rd grade math can't determine the pushrod length or even get you close a lot of the time.
And the valve job was sunk in order to compensate for the mill and putting the larger valves in to get the free drop back down as close to stock as possible. Otherwise you would of had MAJOR p to v problems. As i said that much milling isn't an uncommon practice, like at AI's website or lingenfelters. AI even offers intake manifold flange milling to correct for the head milling to get the ports to line back up after an extensive mill.
I just see these cars floating the valves at near the same rpm and both of them are using the same cam and the same springs and both having a problem. And then another guy breaks the same set of springs. To me it seems obvious. But you all really need to understand that simple 3rd grade math can't determine the pushrod length or even get you close a lot of the time.
And the valve job was sunk in order to compensate for the mill and putting the larger valves in to get the free drop back down as close to stock as possible. Otherwise you would of had MAJOR p to v problems. As i said that much milling isn't an uncommon practice, like at AI's website or lingenfelters. AI even offers intake manifold flange milling to correct for the head milling to get the ports to line back up after an extensive mill.