Reused old head bolts
I mean, when I looked to buy replacement bolts they were like $140 bucks I just didn't have it. I thought it was okay to get away with reusing them.
05-17-2007, 07:40 PM
#17
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Aye. This is not to bash WM or anyone else, because I always ave a dime or two here an there, but this is what happens when you flat out cut corners.
How the hell do you get a set of afr heads and not be able to afford $50 head bolts, let alone not know you need them.
So you are going to risk a set of afr heads to save a days work and another $100?
How the hell do you get a set of afr heads and not be able to afford $50 head bolts, let alone not know you need them.
So you are going to risk a set of afr heads to save a days work and another $100?
05-17-2007, 07:51 PM
#18
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You might not have any trouble. I tend to err on the safe side, though.
05-17-2007, 09:43 PM
#19
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I bet you could replace the bolts one for one with out replacing the head gaskets. You will have to remove the exhaust manifold/heads and valve train. I don't see a reason to pull the intake.
Just pretend you're one of the guys that actually performs a complete retorque after a couple of heat cycles.\\\
Mike
Just pretend you're one of the guys that actually performs a complete retorque after a couple of heat cycles.\\\
Mike
05-17-2007, 10:29 PM
#20
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I bet you could replace the bolts one for one with out replacing the head gaskets. You will have to remove the exhaust manifold/heads and valve train. I don't see a reason to pull the intake.
Just pretend you're one of the guys that actually performs a complete retorque after a couple of heat cycles.\\\
Mike
Just pretend you're one of the guys that actually performs a complete retorque after a couple of heat cycles.\\\
Mike
05-17-2007, 10:40 PM
#21
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Sounds like you are tight on cash, but if you can save for ARP studs instead of bolts, you'll get an even seal. Bolts work fine but if you upgrade later to N2O or boost, you'll be glad you had studs. Just a thought since you may be changing them out anyways.
05-18-2007, 05:57 AM
#23
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You will be fine.
How did the world ever exist with guys using the same head bolts for years, time after time until the old experts on z28.com chimed in.
Unless you have personally had an issue with a head bolt snapping, head gaskets blowing out because of "incorrent torque wrench torque"...come on.
How did the world ever exist with guys using the same head bolts for years, time after time until the old experts on z28.com chimed in.
Unless you have personally had an issue with a head bolt snapping, head gaskets blowing out because of "incorrent torque wrench torque"...come on.
Last edited by CANTONRACER; 05-18-2007 at 06:55 AM.
05-18-2007, 07:03 AM
#24
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You will be fine.
How did the world ever exist with guys using the same head bolts for years, time after time until the old experts on z28.com chimed in.
Unless you have personally had an issue with a head bolt snapping, head gaskets blowing out because of "incorrent torque wrench torque"...come on.
How did the world ever exist with guys using the same head bolts for years, time after time until the old experts on z28.com chimed in.
Unless you have personally had an issue with a head bolt snapping, head gaskets blowing out because of "incorrent torque wrench torque"...come on.
05-18-2007, 07:34 AM
#25
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I bet you could replace the bolts one for one with out replacing the head gaskets. You will have to remove the exhaust manifold/heads and valve train. I don't see a reason to pull the intake.
Just pretend you're one of the guys that actually performs a complete retorque after a couple of heat cycles.\\\
Mike
Just pretend you're one of the guys that actually performs a complete retorque after a couple of heat cycles.\\\
Mike
Jazsun, if doing it this way there's no need to pull the heads off. Just replace the bolts one by one. There's no head bolts under the intake
05-18-2007, 08:24 AM
#26
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Location: Carol Stream, Il.
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You will be fine.
How did the world ever exist with guys using the same head bolts for years, time after time until the old experts on z28.com chimed in.
Unless you have personally had an issue with a head bolt snapping, head gaskets blowing out because of "incorrent torque wrench torque"...come on.
How did the world ever exist with guys using the same head bolts for years, time after time until the old experts on z28.com chimed in.
Unless you have personally had an issue with a head bolt snapping, head gaskets blowing out because of "incorrent torque wrench torque"...come on.
05-18-2007, 10:10 AM
#27
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Location: Orange Kounty, Kalifornia
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Personal opinion - if they are torque to yield (mentioned before) I wouldn't use them again.
If you really want to quantify the bolts, measure them for bolt stretch.
If they are not torque to yield then you are probably ok. Again, my opinion is if you are going into the head bolts, rod bolts, or main bolts... replace them.
Also, I'd be cautious replacing one bolt at a time. I'd "crack" them loose using the manufacturer specified torque pattern... then replace them one at a time so the aluminum head won't warp. This will relieve the pressure on the bolt that is missing. This is my opinion and what I would do to be safe.
If you really want to quantify the bolts, measure them for bolt stretch.
If they are not torque to yield then you are probably ok. Again, my opinion is if you are going into the head bolts, rod bolts, or main bolts... replace them.
Also, I'd be cautious replacing one bolt at a time. I'd "crack" them loose using the manufacturer specified torque pattern... then replace them one at a time so the aluminum head won't warp. This will relieve the pressure on the bolt that is missing. This is my opinion and what I would do to be safe.
05-18-2007, 10:59 AM
#28
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Posts: 411
You will be fine.
How did the world ever exist with guys using the same head bolts for years, time after time until the old experts on z28.com chimed in.
Unless you have personally had an issue with a head bolt snapping, head gaskets blowing out because of "incorrent torque wrench torque"...come on.
How did the world ever exist with guys using the same head bolts for years, time after time until the old experts on z28.com chimed in.
Unless you have personally had an issue with a head bolt snapping, head gaskets blowing out because of "incorrent torque wrench torque"...come on.
I agree, I even think I reused my head bolts
05-19-2007, 11:11 AM
#29
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Thanks for beating me to the punch. I have the time to get on the internet every day.
The biggest pita for Jazsun is going to be the short bolts, since the exhaust manifolds/headers will have to be removed to get them. Although I believe the old ones will be OK; the way my LT1 luck runs I'd replace the head bolts.
Mike
Last edited by aboatguy; 05-19-2007 at 11:13 AM.
05-19-2007, 11:22 AM
#30
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Posts: 4,800
Last time I checked with Dal for a set of stock head bolts it was a whopping $23 for a whole set of new stock bolts, there is your budget solution.
Dal is a man that sells GM parts at very low markup as opposed to the often 100% markup the average dealership charges so just use whomever you use for GM parts at good prices.
Dal is a man that sells GM parts at very low markup as opposed to the often 100% markup the average dealership charges so just use whomever you use for GM parts at good prices.