DarkHorse

Guys - my cousin has to rebuild his LT1 in his Caprice but i'm not sure that his selection is going to do what he wants.

Current best: 12.80@105 1.71 60' - pulling both wheels an inch or so. Car made I think 250rwhp at most - all suspension here.

Current vehicle specs:
1996 Caprice 9C1
weight is approx 4100lbs
QA1 shocks front n rear
LCA's
Hotchkiss sway bar
3.73 gears
Rear air bags

Suspension is good to go - no missing link here.

Full bolt ons
Tri Y stainless headers
Edge 3500 converter
Fresh race rebuild 4L60E by Baker Performance - Tallmadge, Ohio

Ok on to what has been suggested. Now this is what i'm questioning due to what he wants.

Eagle forged 6" rods (not sure H or I beam)
Eagle forged crank
JE forged flat tops - final compression around 12:1
.030 overbore

He already has a complete LE2 heads/cam package that is designed to allow him to shift in his desired range of 6200-6500rpm. Doesn't a 6" rod along with the 355" cid play more towards revving higher than what he wants?

IMO - considering the weight of the vehicle and the desired rpm range wouldn't a 383 stroker work out more to his liking? It would keep the shifts down and add much needed torque to move the 4100lbs better than a high horsepower/high revving 355" 6" rod combo - or am I wrong?

He had talked about adding a single turbo or possibly twins to the car but I think the 12:1 compression throws that idea out the window so why not go for cubic inches and keep the car in a much more streetable rpm range? The car sees tons of street duty as it is - going to car shows and driving to the track n whatnot.

Well? If you have questions about the car, ask, I should be able to answer pretty much everything about it.

As a side note - the fuel system has been upgraded a racetronix unit. I'm more concerned with the rotating assembly choice - pretty much all of the supporting parts has already been addressed.

Car can be seen here:
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/poppajack

CANTONRACER

He likes to leave with a lot of grunt.

He will not touch n2o.

IMO...he would be better off with a stock rod length and a 3.75" stroke.

The stroker will use up some of those heads & pull the rpm down.

You get that setup shifting higher you will need to address gearing/converter to utilize his powerband.

Heavy vehicles should look at torque and power under the curve more than a peak # that will not be seen in the 1/4.

rskrause

I agree that a car that heavy will benefit a lot from the longer stroke. Difference between a 5.7" and a 6" rod is pretty trivial in this kind of application. I don't know much about the LE2 cam, but the longer stroke whould lower the rev range a bit.

That's nice times for a 4,100lb car, I know how hard it is to get a boat like that moving!

Rich

Mean Green

did i miss something here or is that hp number wrong? 12.8 from 250rwhp in a 2 ton car? not possible....so i'm assuming i missed something.

CANTONRACER

People get stuck on horsepower and forget about making use of what is made.

My Lightning might be lucky to make 430 rwhp...weighs in @ 4700 lbs race weight yet runs the times in the sig....torque.

DarkHorse

The car is all 60' right now - stock iron heads stock camshaft with bolt-ons. I believe his dyno run is scanned on his page. He makes use of every single bit of power the car makes thru the suspension and tire combo.

Thanks Rich

rock1501

My car is only 285 rwhp(321 rwtq) and I run 12.6-12.7 consistantly.
And yes I know the hp is low for the mods but I am putting a solid roller 383 in this winter to fix that little problem

SStrokerAce

The top end is designed for a 355, so if you wanted to turn RPM thats the way to go... there are a few 355 guys out there going fast in Imps so it can be done.

The 383 on the other hand will make more TQ but you will limit the RPM like Rich said. You can change the cam but you would also want to change the valve sizes as well.

hvyss would be a good guy to look at for a 355 in a 4400lbs car.

Bret

DarkHorse

Thanks Bret - hvyss (Frank) is a great guy - my cousin John has been speaking with him on the impy board. Both of us are on the impy board as well - John is working with Keith at MPE/Lloyd/Frank/and Bryan Herter on this. LOL - lots of hands but proven combos so.....

I'm about due for a forged bottom end myself - Johnny was at 40k miles and had busted ring lands and a smoked cam bearing - now i'm afraid to pull my engine out to re bearing it @ 120k

CANTONRACER

Being his mph went up when he switched to the new tank...under acceleration he probably had a lean condition...which you cannot detect on a dyno.

Lean condition will destroy rings/ringlands.

Handyman

Your right, I thought the same thing when I noticed the ring. Went from 97-98 to 104/105MPH after the tank was installed on the same tune?? Well, there is very good news. Frank is running 12.16 112MPH with his 355 in a little heavy car, smaller cam set up. Looks like a go!! Hoping for 12.4 12.5 110/112MPH I think it's going to work great, Lloyd says the cam will start making 350 Torque around 2400 and hold it thru the top... Wish me luck.. Bryan says more like high 11 to low 12..I will take what I can get.Love that "BIG" car, 4 door muscle...

Handyman

Handyman

Here is the list for the bottom end...

Eagle 4340 forged steel crankshaft, 3.480 stroke, setup for 6.000 rod length and clearanced for SRP flattop pistons.

JE/SRP flattop pistons, -5cc valve relief. 4.030 bore. Tell them they can go ahead and bore the block, just wait to final hone for piston clearance. Tell them around .005-.0055 skirt to bore clearance, we run most turbo and spray motors around .006 clearance.

Eagle 4340 forged Hbeam connecting rods, 6.000 length, 2.100 std pin.

Plasma moly ring set ( JE) 4.035 bore (file fit)

Clevite 77 rod bearings

Clevite 77 main bearings

Durabond race cam bearings

complete balancing on Hines balancer

Setup rod clearances to .0025-.0027 He will need to setup the main clearances, since I dont have the block here, They should be fine with the std main bearings I will be sending.

The block will need to be lightly clearanced for the larger 7/16 12 pt head rod bolts.

Handyman