Nate LeDuc

I'm kinda lost. I've got some noise from my rockers, I'm wanting to swap them to 1.6. I know I need to swap the springs so I'm looking into the LS7 springs. Do I need to get GM LS7 springs or can I use aftermarked. Here is the the rockers I'm looking at.

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Motor is 100% stock (CAI doesn't count) so I believe I have 7/16 studs. Now I know nothing about lash or adjusting them.

Can I just swap over the springs and the rockers or does it need a tune?

~Nathan

Nate LeDuc

Springs I was looking at:

LS1 LS2 LS3 LS6 LS7 CYLINDER HEAD SPRINGS GOOD FOR .600 LIFT | eBay

96capricemgr

The CAT rockers are rock bottom of the barrel and when measured their 1.65 ratio are 1.6 and when notified they DON'T CARE.

The stock studs are 7/16" in the head but 3/8" for the rocker

Far as springs if you want to go dirt cheap for a stock cam with 1.6 rockers I would do LT4 springs.

The LS7 springs are at the very least going to need new retainers which after the springs costing that much the retainers are going to cost you more than LT4 springs as well.

All that said I would do exhaust before rockers and springs.

Nate LeDuc

Thanks for the info, so I should be looking into something like Comp's rockers. Do you have any suggestions, but as I am running stock valve covers so clearance might be an issue.

Would it be better to get a set of OEM LS7 springs/retainers?

Again, would I need to do any kind of adjusting/tuning on these or can I bolt them on then go.

Injuneer

The Comp Pro Magnum rockers will work with the stock valve covers, with minor tweeking of the internal support gussets for the centerbolts.

96capricemgr

When buying rockers I would buy with an eye to the future. As in spend a fair amount and get something that you can keep as you build the car further. To that end I would look at something like 7/16" Ultra ProMagnum with new ARP studs and Isky adjustable guideplates. That is an expensive set of parts I just suggested though BUT doing it right and doing it once is cheaper than what I did buying 1.5 ProForm, then 1.65 CAT JUNK then ProMagnums. The ProMagnums seem to be phasing out and replaced with the Ultra ProMagnum. I bought Comp guideplates that didn't line up right, then GMPP guideplates that the pushrods wore grooves in before later gong with the Isky adjustable.

For all I spent on all that I could have easily done shaft mounts by now and have something even better than what I have now.

Like I said though I would do exhaust first.

The 1.6 ratio will gain you a small amount the springs could gain you a decent amount right up near the rev limiter, but a set of headers/catback will gain you power everywhere.

I modded my car in the wrong order, cam, then stall, then gears, then headers.

Gears will provide the nicest seat of the pants gain but require reprogramming for the speedo so you might consider doing headers and exhaust which are fine without programming, then do gears and reprogramming and consider the rockers and springs after that.

Like I say I have been there and done it wrong, I am telling you how I wish I had done it, hindsight it 20/20.

Nate LeDuc

I appreciate the help! I'm about to try adjusting them, if successful I'm going to continue with my initial mod plan for this car.

Intake -> longtube headers with true duals - > rockers - > cam

CamDriver

remember also if you go with guidplates you dont need self aligning rockers you use gen 1 sbc rockers... they are cheaper in price also..

Nate LeDuc

A little off topic (very offtopic) but the reason I'm wanting to change out my rocker arms is because I have a ticking noise under acceleration. Already changed plugs and wires. Last night I seafoamed my injectors and I have alot of smoke under the hood, does this sound like an exhaust leak or am I on the right track with the RA.
~Nathan

96capricemgr

an acceleration tick I would sooner suspect an exhaust manifold gasket problem than a rocker.

Orr89rocz

Is it a lifter making noise? Is the rocker arm nuts tight? perhaps it backed off and the lifter lost its preload? check them if possible.

pgerst

+1 on the exhaust leak that 96capricemgr suggests. I am in CA, no rust, and when I did my headers, I was prepared to do battle getting the manifold bolts out. 2 or 3 of them were so loose they were finger tight; either a-hole mechanic at the dealer or they loosened with time.

Nate LeDuc

I figure with my exams next week then having all of summer I will go ahead and just jump into an exhaust system. I got a quote for duels for around 2k, thats without headers.