seawolf06

I've been having a lot of trouble with my cam install. After I put everything together up to the balancer, it started fine. Didn't have anything wired up except the PCM. Finished installing everything and put coolant in it, wired up the pump and it wouldn't start. Changed out the coil, but not after flooding it and fouling all the plugs. Finally got that done, took her out and she runs like crap. At idle and just above idle, it pops out the exhaust. It's loud and inconsistent, but seems to pop more with a little more revs up to about 1500 RPM, then it stops. Loaded a new tune for it using Tunercat, and it runs better, but still pops. Doesn't have any power throughout the powerband and sounds like it's missing badly when it goes to WOT in gear. Sounds fine when you rev in neutral except for the popping at lower RPM. I have 3 datalogs if anyone can host those for me, but they were while the right O2 was reading a constant .2xx, went to change it and the bung broke off. The first two things I noticed about the datalogs were that the L Block Learn was 108, while the R Block Learn was 160! Also, it only got up to 91% throttle, never 100%. Went to change the O2 and the whole bung broke off, so I have to weld that back before I run another set of logs. Sorry for the long post, just wanted to see if anyone had some insight into what could be wrong. Also, does anyone know how to check the injectors with a multimeter? All opinions appreciated. Thanks.

New Parts:
MSD Opti
226/231 camshaft
1.6 ProMag RR
918 Springs and all 10 degree accessories
Meziere EWP
Crane Coil
Cloyes Double Roller
CC Hardened Pushrods
Autolite 106 plugs

New Used parts:
MSD 6A
Raptor Shift Light wired to MSD box for signal
!AIR, !EGR

Old Parts:
Taylor 8mm wires
Hooker Shorties w/ ORY
Aftermarket Crank Balancer/Pulley
OEM Lifters

HardcoreRM125

Vacuum leak somewhere

Spray around the intake manifold and **** with brake kleen

Maybe you over tightened the valves when you were doing your preload past zero lash.

OneFlyn95z28

Hmm..

I have not answered one of these in a LONG time.

As above I would check for vacuum leaks but I am going to bet the valves are to tight

Sweetred95ta

Make sure the throttle body blades are opening all of the way. If they are, to fix the WOT TPS %, you'll have to slot the TPS to get it to 100%. I don't believe it would matter though, because the %TPS for WOT table is set lower than 93%, or it should be. So, the car should go into open loop and it will operate the way it normally would, even at 93%. This is as long as the TB blades are opened all of the way.

Check your valve adjustment, then post back.

seawolf06

How much preload are you supposed to have? We put 3/4 to 1 full turn past zero lash on 7/16" studs. How do you slot the TPS? Does brake kleen come out in a mist or something to tell you where the vacuum leak is?

Sweetred95ta

Umm...I'm not real familar with the OEM lifters, but I would say try 1/4-1/2 turn of preload. I think 3/4 to 1 full turn is too tight.

Slotting the TPS is basically using a dremel tool or a drill bit and making the holes where you can rotate it in the direction needed to straighten the reading out. You have to make sure it reads the correct voltage w/ the tb blades closed. Like I said, I don't think it matters as long as the blades are opening all of the way.

Brake kleen is a mist. It's like starter fluid, I think, and the motor will rev up if you have a vacuum leak.