Scan readings - any help??
06-15-2006, 12:16 PM
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 475
Scan readings - any help??
First let me say that I had the battery unhooked for about a week while I installed new Kooks, "Y" pipe and new fuel pump. I did let it warm up for quite a while and revved it a number of times at WOT. Don't know if that helps or not. Please remember, all of this scan stuff is new to me. I have been reading Injuneer's rightup ( I have a Scanmaster) and trying to learn but did have a couple questions.
MAF - 11/12
SP 26/27
LP - 01.5
RP - 01.8
lbl - 134
rbl - 158
cel - 18
lin - 128
rin - 128
o2l - 218-496
O2r - 390-406
ats - 101
clt - 170
tps - .00 to .02
tpp - 05
rpm - 975 - 1025 (fluctuates greatly because of large cam I think)
iac - 114
map - 19-20
bar - 30
acp - .28
ccp - 00
Couple of questons: 1. Injuneer's writeup says that the knock sensor reading should ideally be at 0.0 which I understand. Mine is never there. fluctuates greatly. could it be because of my cam/heads setup (see sig)
2. Can you clear stored codes with the Scanmaster or do I need to hookup the laptop?
Please let me know what you see that doesn't make sense or if you have any questions as to what I did and maby didn't do right. Thanks in advance for all your help.
MAF - 11/12
SP 26/27
LP - 01.5
RP - 01.8
lbl - 134
rbl - 158
cel - 18
lin - 128
rin - 128
o2l - 218-496
O2r - 390-406
ats - 101
clt - 170
tps - .00 to .02
tpp - 05
rpm - 975 - 1025 (fluctuates greatly because of large cam I think)
iac - 114
map - 19-20
bar - 30
acp - .28
ccp - 00
Couple of questons: 1. Injuneer's writeup says that the knock sensor reading should ideally be at 0.0 which I understand. Mine is never there. fluctuates greatly. could it be because of my cam/heads setup (see sig)
2. Can you clear stored codes with the Scanmaster or do I need to hookup the laptop?
Please let me know what you see that doesn't make sense or if you have any questions as to what I did and maby didn't do right. Thanks in advance for all your help.
06-15-2006, 01:23 PM
#2
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
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Re: Scan readings - any help??
MAF - 11/12: Looks high but it reflects the high idle speed.
SP 26/27: This will have been set by the tuner. No way to know any
more about it
LP - 01.5:
RP - 01.8: Left and right pulse widths should be equal. Right side has a longer pulse width because of the higher BLM ("rbl") on the passenger side.
lbl - 134
rbl - 158: Split BLM's as idle. Not unusual with a big cam or aftermarket throttle body. Its adding less than 5% extra fuel on the driver's side (acceptable) but its adding almost 24% on the passenger side. You need to find out why this is happening.... is it the big cam, is it a misfire or exhaust leak on the passenger side, etc???
cel - 18: Something is worng. Its supposed to idle in Cell 16. Your TPP is showing 5%, and that's not good. The TPS voltage is too high at closed throttle.
lin - 128
rin - 128: The fact the integrators are locked at 128 and its in Cell 18 indicates its probably not going into closed loop. You need to figure out why.
o2l - 218-496
O2r - 390-406: Again, its probably not in closed loop. The O2 readings should be switching over a much wider range. The coolant is warm enough, and if you ran it at least 3 minutes the timer should be timed out. Maybe the O2 sensors aren't heating up enough???
ats - 101: Was outdoor air temp 101degF when you were running i? If not you have a bit of heat soak.
clt - 170: OK. What are your fan on/off temps set at?
tps - .00 to .02: Something very wrong. Are you sure you wrote the numbers down correctly. TPS volts of 0.20V or less will trip the DTC for the TPS sensor. Closed throttle TPS voltage should be between 0.20V-0.90V. But the PCM is reporting the throttle is 5% open, which leads me to believe you wrote something down wrong.
tpp - 05: Should be "0" % at idle with throttle closed
rpm - 975 - 1025 (fluctuates greatly because of large cam I think): What did your tuner set the idle at? I'm guessing its set at 1,000RPM, so a +/- 25RPM variation is not unusual.
iac - 114: Its struggling to keep the idle speed up. This is maybe pointing to an idle air problem with the TB. Sometimes you need to supplement the air flow trough the TB at closed throttle to keep the idle speed where it belongs.
map - 19-20:This is because of the cam.... its only pulling 10-11"Hg vacuum. If its big enough, that makes sense, if its not it look like the vacuum could be too low. You are borderline on setting the DTC code for high MAP/low vacuum.
bar - 30: Confirms you are at sea level and it was a nice day
acp - .28: Air condintioner pressure.... not important.
ccp - 00: Normal.... EVAP purge is closed at idle.
Couple of questons: 1. Injuneer's writeup says that the knock sensor reading should ideally be at 0.0 which I understand. Mine is never there. fluctuates greatly. could it be because of my cam/heads setup (see sig)
You should not see knock retard. Either your timing map is too aggressive, you have hot spots in the cylinders, your CR is higher than you thought, you have a bad tank of fuel. Or maybe its false knock - picking up some mechanical noise. Or maybe you have a code for the knock sensor and its calculating the knock retard from the engine operating conditions to protect the engine.
2. Can you clear stored codes with the Scanmaster or do I need to hookup the laptop?
Can't clear codes with the ScanMaster. What codes do you have? Would have been nice if those were inclused with the above data, if you have any.
SP 26/27: This will have been set by the tuner. No way to know any
more about it
LP - 01.5:
RP - 01.8: Left and right pulse widths should be equal. Right side has a longer pulse width because of the higher BLM ("rbl") on the passenger side.
lbl - 134
rbl - 158: Split BLM's as idle. Not unusual with a big cam or aftermarket throttle body. Its adding less than 5% extra fuel on the driver's side (acceptable) but its adding almost 24% on the passenger side. You need to find out why this is happening.... is it the big cam, is it a misfire or exhaust leak on the passenger side, etc???
cel - 18: Something is worng. Its supposed to idle in Cell 16. Your TPP is showing 5%, and that's not good. The TPS voltage is too high at closed throttle.
lin - 128
rin - 128: The fact the integrators are locked at 128 and its in Cell 18 indicates its probably not going into closed loop. You need to figure out why.
o2l - 218-496
O2r - 390-406: Again, its probably not in closed loop. The O2 readings should be switching over a much wider range. The coolant is warm enough, and if you ran it at least 3 minutes the timer should be timed out. Maybe the O2 sensors aren't heating up enough???
ats - 101: Was outdoor air temp 101degF when you were running i? If not you have a bit of heat soak.
clt - 170: OK. What are your fan on/off temps set at?
tps - .00 to .02: Something very wrong. Are you sure you wrote the numbers down correctly. TPS volts of 0.20V or less will trip the DTC for the TPS sensor. Closed throttle TPS voltage should be between 0.20V-0.90V. But the PCM is reporting the throttle is 5% open, which leads me to believe you wrote something down wrong.
tpp - 05: Should be "0" % at idle with throttle closed
rpm - 975 - 1025 (fluctuates greatly because of large cam I think): What did your tuner set the idle at? I'm guessing its set at 1,000RPM, so a +/- 25RPM variation is not unusual.
iac - 114: Its struggling to keep the idle speed up. This is maybe pointing to an idle air problem with the TB. Sometimes you need to supplement the air flow trough the TB at closed throttle to keep the idle speed where it belongs.
map - 19-20:This is because of the cam.... its only pulling 10-11"Hg vacuum. If its big enough, that makes sense, if its not it look like the vacuum could be too low. You are borderline on setting the DTC code for high MAP/low vacuum.
bar - 30: Confirms you are at sea level and it was a nice day
acp - .28: Air condintioner pressure.... not important.
ccp - 00: Normal.... EVAP purge is closed at idle.
Couple of questons: 1. Injuneer's writeup says that the knock sensor reading should ideally be at 0.0 which I understand. Mine is never there. fluctuates greatly. could it be because of my cam/heads setup (see sig)
You should not see knock retard. Either your timing map is too aggressive, you have hot spots in the cylinders, your CR is higher than you thought, you have a bad tank of fuel. Or maybe its false knock - picking up some mechanical noise. Or maybe you have a code for the knock sensor and its calculating the knock retard from the engine operating conditions to protect the engine.
2. Can you clear stored codes with the Scanmaster or do I need to hookup the laptop?
Can't clear codes with the ScanMaster. What codes do you have? Would have been nice if those were inclused with the above data, if you have any.
06-15-2006, 02:07 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 475
Re: Scan readings - any help??
Sorry, Codes showing right now; 91; 84; 48; 22; I checked the tps again by just turning the key on, didn't start it, and it shows .02. Don't know if I mentioned or not but the tune on this was done at Carolina Auto Master about 2 and 1/2 years ago. I sent an email to pcmforless yesterday with a list of changes I have made asking if he thought it needed to be updated. Haven't heard back yet. Thanks for your help, Injuneer
06-15-2006, 02:11 PM
#4
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
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Re: Scan readings - any help??
22 = Low TPS voltage. You have a problem there.
48 = MAF sensor circuit. Loose wire? +12V to the pink wire intermittent? You sure this wasn't "43"? That would be the knock sensor and explain the knock retard.
84 = Skip shift solenoid
91 = Skip Shift light
48 = MAF sensor circuit. Loose wire? +12V to the pink wire intermittent? You sure this wasn't "43"? That would be the knock sensor and explain the knock retard.
84 = Skip shift solenoid
91 = Skip Shift light
06-15-2006, 02:47 PM
#5
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 475
Re: Scan readings - any help??
Do you think the tps is bad?? or is it the voltage to it that's the problem? as for the 48 - MAF I think that's because I unplugged it while it was idling. When I first start up it idles really rough and almost stalls. After it warms up it is much better but at first the throttle response is really bad. Think the tps has something to do with this???
06-15-2006, 02:54 PM
#6
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,824
Re: Scan readings - any help??
Check the TPS wiring with a volt meter. With the key on, you should get +5V between the gray wire and the black wire. Then measure voltage between the blue wire and the black wire - that is the signal voltage, and should be the same as the "TPS" value you are reading on the ScanMaster.
06-15-2006, 03:05 PM
#7
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 475
Re: Scan readings - any help??
Injuneer, in your thousands of hours helping people here you must have seen it all. I really feel stupid here but when I went to check wires on the harness I found that it was completely unplugged. Don't know how it happened or how long it has been like that. I plugged it in and redid the scan and it came up at .86. I'm sorry, man. Anything else you see on the scan that I need to address? I'm going to wait a week or so and do another one after the O2's get broke in. Thanks for all your help!!
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