WOOS1

My clutch has been giving me problems for over a year now (I don't put many miles on the car in a year). I can't take the slipping clutch any longer. I want to buy a new clutch, and don't mind dropping $1K + my labor if that is what it takes. I don't want an on/off type of clutch. A good friend of mine has an LS1 with a Cartek clutch, and it is just too aggressive. I want it where my wife will still be able o drive it if she wants to raise a little cain. My car is basically stock. Will have long tubes on by the end of the month. Hope to do a medium heads/cam install before next spring: will never be over 385 rwhp. Also I thought I've heard of people running a LT4 pp and McLeod disk. Anyone have this setup?

95Blackhawk

Here is what I did:

Went down to Autozone and bought myself a new clutch for $250 (some area of US sell it for $200). It will have a warranty and it uses the LT4 pressure plate which gives you more holding power.

Now, later if you start to wear the clutch again, just get a new disc. If you want, try a different one from Spec.

IllusionalTA

If you aren't concerned w/ price and don't mind working out that left leg a lil.. The Street Twin is worth every penny.. and can be rebuilt time and time again for 325 dollar's.. i have it and it has only snapped one driveshaft, one output shaft, and twisted the spline's on 3 steel driveshaft's.. Uprgraded to a spohn extreme duty and don't have no more problems..

Fastbird93

The Street Twin is an On/Off clutch though. VERY agressive, but well worth it.

96 WS6

I thought the street twin was okay about driveability. I think one part is organic and the other part is some other stuff, ehh I'm just thinking out loud.

I used to have a spec stage III ceramic. That thing BIT HARD!!! It was an on off deal. But man could I chirp fourth when all I had was a cutout and free mods =) Don't think about it in traffic either.

Right now I'm using the SLP LT4... it's holding with the blower fairly nicely. I think with any more it will start slipping though. Do what somebody else mentioned and what I plan to do, get the SLP LT4 and if you really want another clutch later just get a disc from clutchnet or spec stage II kevlar or something like that.

ponyackn

I have the ST, feels just like my stock clutch. The thing grabs HARD though when it's time to play. I dropped to 4th on the freeway with a mustang trying to ride my tail hard. I think I scared the ish outta him So it will snap your neck I get slight chatter in 3rd i think, nothing major though.

And for a personal plug, I have a brand new one for extra cheap if your really considering getting one. Check the FS section.

WOOS1

So you can slip it pretty easily?

IDOXLR8

Unlike alot of other clutches a Street Twin will not slip. It will either be engaged or disengaged. It takes some time getting use to but overall I do not think the Street Twin is that harsh to drive.

quicksilver97ta

How can the ST feel like the stock one then? Is it in the adjustment?

Don 97 SS

I've had the SLP disk and the McLeod performance disk. From my experience the McLeod perormance disk is much stouter than the SLP. I'm not knocking the SLP disk, but if you want a reasonable cost disk and can't afford a more costly package (and perhaps don't need the McLeod ST), the Mcleod performance disk is the best choice.

WOT

That's what I'm going to be doing. Waiting for my SLP disk to slip then putting a McLeod (that's sitting on my garage shelf) in.

Don 97 SS

If you place the SLP disk next to the McLeod disk and compare them, there is no question the McLeod is designed and built better for higher performance levels. Again, I want to add that I was pleased with the SLP disk. It is an excellent oem replacement, but it simply is not as stout as the McLeod.

"White Knight"

Go Harsh.....that's what is fun! even though i drive an auto Z......i also have a Cavalier with an agressive clutch Never going back

WOOS1

I would, but I'm afraid of the stock rear end meeting an untimely death.

JSK333

I can slip the ST with no problem.

Put it in first from a stand-still, then slowly let the clutch pedal out. It will slowly gain speed until it fully engages, with a bit of a jerk. But up until full engagement, it will slip smoothly.

When it is "engaged fully" it will not slip, however. Unless you have probably 900+rwhp.

The pedal is a bit firmer than stock, but certainly not a pain for DD'ing.

The aluminum flywheel version weighs less than the stock setup, so you'll save some rotating weight on the engine too.