sc93

Finishing up the cam install here, After I get the crank hub on the rest of thse stuff just needs bolted up and I'm good to go.

I looked everywhere for a threaded rod 7/16-20. NOBODY has one. I got a longer version of the crank bolt, and put it in and tightened it down. The hub went on a little bit but now the crank just turns over when I try to tighten it any more.

Any suggestions?

What about a threaded rod that is a smaller diameter than the crank bolt, and washers/nut on that?

dkeers

Pull the inspection cover off of the tranny (the part that covers the converter). You can use a screwdriver to block the flywheel so that the motor wont turn over while you tighten the bolt. There is a tool made for this, but a screwdriver will work. A socond person will make it much easier.

Dustin

LilJayV10

The best way that I know of is what you mentioned. Get a piece of all thread 7/16-20. Is there a local nut and bolt shop? Try a machine shop, if they don't have it I am sure they can tell you who does.


Also, if you are using a longer crank bolt, which I'd becareful with, make sure that its not bottoming out in the crank, i am not for sure how deep the threads go. You can strip the threads out of the crank, trust me on this one. I know.

Jason

JJ's95B4C

I just did this last night. I used a screwdriver where the starter goes. I put the screwdriver through a hole in the flywheel and it stopped it good. Then i used a longer grade 8 bolt that i bought at napa and it was all good. It went on pretty easily.

Zerosheaven

if its a manual put it in gear, that helped for me

Dan_gearhead

Another suggestion that I've seen is to warm the hub up to make it go on easier (70-100°C), but not put it all the way on first, then let it cool down on the crank, so you don't mess up the sealing, then you push it in the rest of the way through the sealing with a bolt..

AndyB

I know its not the best solutions but...


Propane torch + sledge hammer= installed hub. Just be sure to do the hub by itself and than put the balancer on later or else the heat my screw up the rubber in the balancer.

You are right its impossible to find 7/16-20 threaded rod. And the old school hub installers wont work on LT1's. Be careful trying to crank the hub on with the longer bolt. I managed to break 2 grade 8 bolts doing it that way and trust me drilling grade 8 bolts out is no fun

Ken95Z28

Another vote here of heating the crank hub up first.
Slips right on!

WS Sick

Your thrust bearing will appreciate a minimum of hammering on the crank snout.

I bought my rod of all thread from O reillys, they had it in stock.

I always heat the hub up and then oil it up , putting anti seize on the crank snout and enine oil on the outside that rides the front seal. Using a longer bolt can also ruin the threads in the crank so oil it up as well and be very carefull.

rocmemphis

AZ rents a hub installer tool but I made my own. Basically what I did was take the hub puller put a piece of 2 in PVC in b/w the hub puller and hub then thread the hub bolt on....worked like a charm.

sc93

Ok I think I'll try heating it up.

Should I take it off or leave it on as far is I have it now and heat it?

WS Sick

Id take it off an pop it in the over for 15 minutes. You dont want it red or anything, just really warm (hot to the touch) . also beware that unlesss y0ou have the seals oiled they will melt.