red94chicken

what is a good solid roller lifter that is streetable? for a 96 lt4. i know it has hydraulic roller lifters stock i am going solid roller would like input.

mdacton

none are intended for street use.

I have a set of isky, but I don't street drive.


there is really no need to go solid with the lifters and camshafts available these days.

red94chicken

not going to daily drive but will need to drive back and forth from track 30 miles.

CANTONRACER

A solid roller setup is better than a flat tappet setup any day....and motors ran for a long time before hydraulic rollers were used....just watch the spring pressure.....

red94chicken

huh..

mdacton

the thing with a solid is it needs oiling....so idleing kills them.

just run the **** out of it, but if it eats a lobe or something be ready.

add the comp cam lube when you change the oil or GM#88862586

Jason Short

I've run a few different sets on the street. As discussed previously, you need to make sure that you have adequate oil supply to them....or they will fail.

The best lifters are: ISKY RedZone's and Crower's w/HIPO (Hi Pressure Oiling). The Comp cams Endure-X are a pretty good lifter and have an oiling groove cut into the body. The Endure-X work well with mild/moderate size solid roller cams.

I would highly recommend not using Crane lifters. Many failures (myself included) with them.

Jason

Injuneer

I've had good luck with the Crower Cutaways. The car was a daily driver for the first two years after the stroker build, with the solid roller cam. 8 years later, its not street driven any more, but the Crower's are still fine.

red94chicken

well its for my corvette which is going on limited use cause i am looking for a c5 as a new dd once this starts coming together.

MEAN LT1

I say go for it man, valvetrain technology has come along way. I would stick with the suggestions people have given you that have run one on the street.

The Engineer

Fred,

I'm thinking SR in the near future for my stroker, but I haven't picked one yet. Possibly with a 108-LSA, high 250s duration @ .050 and around .630 to .650 lift.

My current HR is good to 6500, but I want to get a little more agressive with a SR cam.

So, I was wondering what are the specs on your SR?

WD

WS6T3RROR

My experience with solid rollers has been this. Its not so much that you're running a solid roller on the street its two other factors.

One is the design of the lobe that you choose to run, alot of companies just chuck old race lobes into a cam core and call it a street grind. The comp xe solid rollers and the voodoo solid rollers are very good for street durability in my experience. You can also get ahold of harold brookshire and he will set you up with something that will live, i think he's back working at lunati now instead of for ccc. Also just because a solid roller is usually a large cam with big lift and duration does not mean it has to be violent with the parts and acceleration

The second thing is low rpms as has been said before. Dont set your solid roller cam up with a 800rpm idle because you like to hear it lope. Most of the stuff I deem worthy of a solid roller idles 12-1400rpm. Low rpms and poor oiling kill parts faster than anything. If I get stuck at a red light for more than a minute or so i'll give the gas a good jab to clear it out and get oil on everything again.

Dont worry about setting lash, check it here and there and when it stops moving around after a couple of adjustments forget about it imo. After that just check it now and then to make sure nothing has opened up after its all set and has stopped movine. People get the idea that every other startup you have to pop the valve covers off and lash the things... that is total nonsense. If they're moving around that much you maybe need to learn how to use a poly loc. I also always tear this type of setup down and inspect it once a year or 12k to make sure everything is free and nothing is damaged or showing wear. The teardown includes making sure that the springs are not going away. If it looks iffy it goes in the garbage no questions asked.

My last suggestion would be to not get real crazy with spring pressure... 200seated and 400-450 over the nose is plenty for any street sbc to run imo. For lifters I like the hipo from Crower.

For all this "hassle" you get more power everywhere and you will beat out a hydro roller over 5.5-6k pretty easily if you take advantage of what a solid roller can do for you.

If you do a solid roller wrong or dont check things out closely and get to racy with it. Its going to cost you engine after engine, and sometimes... you're gonna get bit by parts manufacturing problems and that will be expensive too, but thats hot rodding .

MEAN LT1

Agreed......If I had a dollor for every time i heard some old school hotrodder say other wise I would be rich.

Stroked96Bowtie

Ive got a 2xx/2xxSR with a .xxx/.xxx (kept it up as long as I could stand it ) lift that I intend to drive on the street a few times a week. Running T&D shaftmounts, I have the Crower Severe Dutys but cant tell if they are hipo or not. Looking around I dont see this tag with the part number thats on these lifters (66290). Anyone have a good resource? Suppose I can call Crower.

What do you guys think of that cam spec for street driving? Not daily, but a couple times a week...track and mexico duty Seems like a relatively small SR compared to most.

red94chicken

i just got a comp cam that is 250/260 with .673/.673 on a 110lsa and 944 springs..