Some LT1 Myths/Misconceptions
07-06-2003 | 10:20 PM
#32
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 486
From: Crossville, TN
The first concerns plugs and wires. There are no plugs or wires that will add any hp to a stock or mildly modded LT1. So why do some apparently reliable people say they will? Most likely because they are replacing old, malfunctioning parts with new. But the stock parts are fine with stock or mildly modded motors.
07-06-2003 | 10:37 PM
#34
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,481
From: Arlington, VA
Originally posted by revtime
The brake thing again.
WHO CARES!!!!!
If slotted and drilled works for me then just let it go.
Its my money and if I want to waste it then I will (don,t think I am but....)
Mindgame is drag racing Trey, he very well could be seeing a big difference hauling that car down from speed with his "Oh GOD there awful" slotted and drilled rotors.
This is a question of money, period. You say its a waste I say its not.
Could we quit bickering over other peoples money now?
The brake thing again.
WHO CARES!!!!!
If slotted and drilled works for me then just let it go.
Its my money and if I want to waste it then I will (don,t think I am but....)
Mindgame is drag racing Trey, he very well could be seeing a big difference hauling that car down from speed with his "Oh GOD there awful" slotted and drilled rotors.
This is a question of money, period. You say its a waste I say its not.
Could we quit bickering over other peoples money now?
07-06-2003 | 10:51 PM
#35
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,009
From: so close I can taste it...
Re: Some LT1 Myths/Misconceptions
Originally posted by rskrause
A related myth is that there are gains from making timing changes. The stock timing is quite agressive and only works because the knock sensor function allows improper operation (low octane fuel, high load at low rpm, etc.) without damage. There will be no gain from advancing the timing on a stock or mildly modded vehcile running on pump fuel.
A related myth is that there are gains from making timing changes. The stock timing is quite agressive and only works because the knock sensor function allows improper operation (low octane fuel, high load at low rpm, etc.) without damage. There will be no gain from advancing the timing on a stock or mildly modded vehcile running on pump fuel.
I'd like to see some of the more knowledgable ECM guys here get together and write a really short tuning page or slap a sticky at the top of the computer/diagnostics page (and lock it) as a basis to start tuning an LT1 from. Should help those just getting started quite a bit.
07-06-2003 | 10:55 PM
#36
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,481
From: Arlington, VA
I'd like to see some of the more knowledgable ECM guys here get together and write a really short tuning page or slap a sticky at the top of the computer/diagnostics page (and lock it) as a basis to start tuning an LT1 from. Should help those just getting started quite a bit.
07-06-2003 | 11:11 PM
#38
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,009
From: so close I can taste it...
Originally posted by xxsaint69x
uhhh....so how come my car runs a lot faster with 36 timming at wot instead of the stock 33.5? I only changed the WOT 90-100 kpa...
I guess the timming issue would be true for stock cam cars eh?
uhhh....so how come my car runs a lot faster with 36 timming at wot instead of the stock 33.5? I only changed the WOT 90-100 kpa...
I guess the timming issue would be true for stock cam cars eh?
And where in your stock file did you have 33.5 degrees?
All the ones I have show 35* at 90-95 map and 33 at 100map.
07-06-2003 | 11:31 PM
#39
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,495
From: Westmont, IL
Alright, im not an expert on brakes or anything, but here goes what I have to say. Brakes are designed to transform forward energy into heat energy. They do this very well by taking the material on your brake pads and pressing the pads onto your rotor. However, after a certain point, the brakes begin to lose effectiveness because after your rotors begin heating up past a certain point, two things happen. #1.) You begin to surpass the effectivness point for which your pads were designed to operate at, and #2.) the extreme heat of the rotors begins to make the pad material glaze over onto the rotor. This greatly reduces the effectiveness of your brakes. Their is also the issue of gas bubbles forming between your pad and rotor due to the extreme heat. A good solution to these problems is cross drilled and slotted rotors. They are much better at dissapating heat, due to their slots and holes, this keeps your pads in their designed heat range and keeps them from glazing onto your rotor. They also totally knock out the gas bubble problem due to the holes. However, the gas bubbles only form in rare occasions and under repeated heavy use. Well, i just thought that i would throw in my .02!
07-06-2003 | 11:37 PM
#40
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,481
From: Arlington, VA
OMG, If you haven't read the longest post on the board yet (about slotted and cross drilled brakes), then you need to. This post could be useful. If you all would drop the subject about the DAMN brakes....
07-06-2003 | 11:39 PM
#41
Registered User
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,889
From: Peachtree City, GA
Originally posted by Dan K
Heh...yeah...that comment was geared more towards a stock cam. Comparing it to a 306 isn't quite the same.
And where in your stock file did you have 33.5 degrees?
All the ones I have show 35* at 90-95 map and 33 at 100map.
Heh...yeah...that comment was geared more towards a stock cam. Comparing it to a 306 isn't quite the same.
And where in your stock file did you have 33.5 degrees?
All the ones I have show 35* at 90-95 map and 33 at 100map.
07-07-2003 | 01:09 AM
#43
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 144
From: overland park, ks usa
I've been reading the slotted rotor -vs- regular rotors and the slotted rotors should out stop non-slotted rotors. The misconception as I understand it is (scary thought), the slots or drilled holes are not for cooling...they're for relieving pneumatic gas buildups under the pads that prevents the pad from making full contact with the surfae of the rotor...they prevent the traditional cause for brake fade.
07-07-2003 | 01:15 AM
#44
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 144
From: overland park, ks usa
I've been reading the slotted rotor -vs- regular rotors and I second what I read above.... The misconception as I understand it is (scary thought), the slots or drilled holes are less about cooling and more about relieving pneumatic gas buildups under the pads that prevents the pad from making full contact with the surface of the rotor--they prevent the traditional cause for brake fade.
07-07-2003 | 03:49 AM
#45
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
Originally posted by Zerocool
i am in the process of putting the LT4 hotcam kit in my 94z28 and i was woundering if i needed the LT4 knock moduel to prevent false knock, is this true or do i not need it???
i am in the process of putting the LT4 hotcam kit in my 94z28 and i was woundering if i needed the LT4 knock moduel to prevent false knock, is this true or do i not need it???
Rich Krase