Yeah it does cause i was figuring down the road i'd get one. That sux that if i get an LT1 edit that eventually the comp will run the system rich gain and theres no way to keep the LT1 edit programming stationary What about the MSD ignition? what kinda mods do u need to get the full potential out of it??
Thanks!

 

A couple of the more obvious reasons to utilize an aftermarket ignition box. If you run high boost or very high compression, you need more voltage to jump the plug gap. In a blower or nitrous car, you may want to eliminate the stock rev limiter, which cuts fuel, for a rev limiter which cuts spark. High rpm operation may also exceed the stock ignition capability. A boosted motor may utilize a "boost-retard" function in the box. Another is if you need to utilize a "two-step" rev limiter for drag racing.

There are more, but the above came to mind easily.

Rich Krause

 

I'll try again. By adding the adjustable fuel pressure regulator you are wasting time and money IMHO. The computer will re-adjust it's fueling strategy to make up for the change that you made in your fuel pressure.
The correct way to do it is to have the computer tuned. Then it won't re-learn or re-adjust it's way back. That's the whole reason you're changing things in the computer....to correct it based on what your car wants/needs. Better?

 

Yes, I understand that is true with 94+ cars. But, I have always heard that 93's will not adjust the fueling strategy, therefore the HP gains are permanent. Is this true of the 93's?

 

From a post 4 above yours:

 

LT1s need backpressure to run...

throttle body air foil add 10 hp...

throttle body bypass gains hp...

 

someone said hypertech was a waste of money....why?...is there a better system i can use that just plugs in like the hypertech?

 

How does the TB bypass not net you any gains?? It is the only free mod that i have ever seen dyno proven...a few times...everytime gaining between 5-7rwhp?? Explain

 

Yeah I don't mean to sound like an idiot, just wanna make sure i got my sheot right, thanks for the clearification on the FPR too!

 

I have personally seen before and after dyno's with a Hypertech on an LT1 and minimal (2-3 RWTQ max) if any were seen across the band. Not worth the money.

Just my FYI, because I like to play with my PCM, you don't want something that just plugs in. You want to tune you car to your conditions. Not just mods, but your gas (say poopie Phoenix gas), your style of driving, etc.

 

i stopped reading at page 2, so forgive me if this was already mentioned...


to trey on the brake thing...


TRUE...more rotor surface area, more friction, better braking...

waaaaiiiit..., no actually...

the first time, yes, better braking... once they get hot (im sure you know how quickly that happens...) gases begin to expand between the pad and the rotor, causing less friction and brake fade, along with the heat... drilled/slotted rotors evacuate those gases... and they DO brake better...

simple fact you couldn't sway me on.... drilled/slotted rotors = blank rotor OWNAGE

 

do you guys idle your cars to make sure they are fully up to temperature before you dyno them??


i would think the block would be stone cold when you turn it on to put it on the dyno.... if the coolant is cold, then why would it affect the temperature of your intake charge?

on the street... more hp? i believe it...

its not gonna help you any tho when the engines cold....

 

Eaglenight.At what speed does all this start to happen.(However,at a certain point the regular brakes start to become inefective).According to some hotrod mag a couple of years ago.slotted brakes do not become effective till you go over 160 mph.I guess I'm asking for being practible in everyday use,wouldn't regular brakes stop just fine?And aren't Porches designed to go faster than 160?,idunno.And for the other member who thinks it's a waste of time removeing the spare tire and jack,I dunno about your car,but when I take off,I get a lot of weight transfer to the back end,the front end lifts kinda nicely as well(maybe it's shock time).Besides,it's 38 lbs of useless weight.
Throttle body bypass.Haven't noticed anything
After market wires=Unless you have headers,I would stay stock.(the thicker silicone keeps them from burning).
After market coils=These people should be sued.(Stranded on the freeway for one hour after an Accel coil install)What a joke.
48 throttle body.Previous posts have suggested that on a mostly stock lt1,they could run 12's and 13's.
Relocating the air intake sensor.Another piece of work.I put mine back,runs the same as it did before.
High flow cat,now that really works.
Back pressure-I've heard too little back pressure causes piston scrapping.So,when you uncork the whole exhaust,isn't this pre-mature engine failure about to happen?Doesn't the engine run better with some back pressure?
Doesn't a chicken have lips?
Beer time,by.M02 (textbook theories,got to love em).

 

The nitrous question re: compression is getting way beyond LT1 specific stuff. But FWIW, there are both low and high compression nitrous setups that work. Way over simplifying, here's my opinion. An optimal setup for a street or street/strip car using a relatively small (150hp or less) nitrous shot would be a relatively high compression setup.

Using more nitrous than that gets you into a gray area, as far as I am conerned. The amount of hp "added" by the N2O does not depend on the CR. Obviously, the "base" (non-nitrous) hp does, to a point. The problem is that higher CR increases the tendency toward detonation, a problem with nitrous, especially when a lot of nitrous is added. So I would say that if everything else is the same (fuel used, operating conditions, cam, etc.), if you are using more then ~150hp from nitrous, a lower CR is needed to avoid detonation.

Rich Krause

 

Don't let this thread die yet.......