splayed 4bolt caps or main girdle?
#1
splayed 4bolt caps or main girdle?
Hey folks I have a 97 Z28 with a tired engine and I also have another LT1 in an unfinished project car that has a Comp 230/230 @ .050 .56/.56" lift cam, double roller chain, csi wp,new roller lifters and a new Canton pan, pump & pickup. I want to do a mild 383 build using all of the new parts in the project motor along with a Scat 9000 cast crank, Scat 6" 4340 rods and forged Mahle or SRP ft pistons. I'm also going to do a mild home port & polish job on the stock heads & intake with 2.0/1.56 stainless valves, Crane dual spring kit, 3 angle valvejob, bronze guides 7/16 screw in studs & guideplates with Comp 1.6 rr's. I also have AS&M 1 3/4" mids, fully built 4L60E with 2800 stall & 3.73's. The question I have concerns whether I should spend the extra money for splayed 4 bolt caps or just install a 2 bolt main girdle like the one Jegs sells for the LT1?
I know the Ford guys build potent motors with 2 bolt mains and main girdles, so what do you guys think is appropriate for a budget daily driver occassional trip to the strip?
I know the Ford guys build potent motors with 2 bolt mains and main girdles, so what do you guys think is appropriate for a budget daily driver occassional trip to the strip?
Last edited by 87Aerocoupe; 05-26-2008 at 12:56 AM.
#4
#7
Thanks guys I have been rethinking the reason for this motor, it's a stopgap to hold me over until next summer when I can do a fully forged and built 383 with good heads etc, this way I can have some reliable fun this year. I just don't want to beat on a shortblock with almost 90k on it and since I have the spare motor from the other project I figured why not freshen & strenghten the bottom end and build a budget 355 for now. I found a GM forged 1053 crank for $550 although I see many of you have had success with the stock crank and I want to use either Scat 6" procomp 4340 I beams with 7/16th bolts or Eagle H beams with either Mahle or SRP forged ft pistons along with the CL77 armor coated rod & main bearings. ARP main studs and head bolts with the main girdle should make for a stout enough bottom end to have some fun without worries, what do you guys think?
Last edited by 87Aerocoupe; 05-26-2008 at 09:53 AM.
#8
If it's just something to tie you over then I'd put as little money into it as possible. Maybe still a girdle. Caps, especially 4-bolt are expensive.
The way I'd do it is either use the original short block or refreshen it with stock bearings, rings, ARP rod bolts, stock pistons and rods (stock LT1 rods can take masssive abuse).
The way I'd do it is either use the original short block or refreshen it with stock bearings, rings, ARP rod bolts, stock pistons and rods (stock LT1 rods can take masssive abuse).
#9
Cool thanks for all of the advise and help but I recieved good news today the machine shop I use called me and told me my 383 will be done by the end of June so I'm going to sell this short block with the cam,timing setup and oil pan. Then use the CSI ewp and lifters on my 383.
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