starting budget 355 build
#1
starting budget 355 build
Hey all I'm getting ready to start a budget 355 to replace the tired motor in my 97 SS. So far I have another block, home ported/polished heads (no flow numbers), Canton oilpan & pump, new lifters, Rollmaster double roller timing set, ewp, comp 230/230 - .560/.560 cam, pushrods & 1.6 rr's. I also have a forged crank from a ZZ4 that I'm going to use and I want to get the Scat Procomp I beam rods and Mahle powerpac forged pistons.
The car currently has coated edelbrock headers but I have a new set of coated Pacesetter lt's, do you guys think I can make 375-400 rwhp with this setup and a 2800 stall with a built 4l60e?
Would 36# injectors be ok for this setup?
The car currently has coated edelbrock headers but I have a new set of coated Pacesetter lt's, do you guys think I can make 375-400 rwhp with this setup and a 2800 stall with a built 4l60e?
Would 36# injectors be ok for this setup?
#3
A little bit of searching seems to indicate the ZZ4 used the same nodular iron crankshaft as the LT1.
Single pattern cams are not normaly use in gen 1 and gen 2 smallblocks because the exhaust side is almost always weak compared to intake so it is normal to see 6-10degrees more exhaust duration to bandaid this.
Might want to do some reading on the Canton pan too.
Single pattern cams are not normaly use in gen 1 and gen 2 smallblocks because the exhaust side is almost always weak compared to intake so it is normal to see 6-10degrees more exhaust duration to bandaid this.
Might want to do some reading on the Canton pan too.
#4
I checked the numbers on the crank and it's a GM 1053 forged steel 3.48" stroke. Plus it has a wide parting line and it rings like a bell when struck with a wrench.
Also I guess I will get the heads flowed before I build the engine just so I'll know but how much rwhp/rwtq is needed to run high 11's low 12's in a 3600# car with 3.73's and a built A4 with a 2800 stall?
Also I guess I will get the heads flowed before I build the engine just so I'll know but how much rwhp/rwtq is needed to run high 11's low 12's in a 3600# car with 3.73's and a built A4 with a 2800 stall?
Last edited by 87Aerocoupe; 11-02-2008 at 08:55 PM.
#5
Dwyane what cam would you recomend for a daily driver occasional strip car with an A4, 3.73's, 11.8:1 scr, heads with say 245/170 @ .500" and LT's with true duals?
Most of the parts is stuff I have laying around from other projects.
Most of the parts is stuff I have laying around from other projects.
#6
I would also say folks get too wrapped up in "match the cam to the heads". It is fairly well known what the heads will do stock and ported and there is no need to measure the heads to match a cam to them.
Heads are the make or break part of the equasion though, "ported" means little as the results can range from ruined castings to capable of 9s NA.
On the cam, is emissions a concern? How about longevity of parts? Intended rpm range??
Heads are the make or break part of the equasion though, "ported" means little as the results can range from ruined castings to capable of 9s NA.
On the cam, is emissions a concern? How about longevity of parts? Intended rpm range??
#8
The ET goals you have described have been achieved by cam only and bolt on cars. The quality of the machine work will play a pivotal role in how efficient your motor operates. Stabilizing the valvetrain is important as well, and of course suspension. If you cant plant it it won't go.
As for a cam choice you should look at not how fast it will go but more of where will it operate the most. That is what you should base your decisions on!
As for a cam choice you should look at not how fast it will go but more of where will it operate the most. That is what you should base your decisions on!
#10
Pretty sure the ones out of crate motors are forged. A buddy of mine has one and always talks about pulling the crank because its forged and putting it in another motor.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
10-31-2016 11:09 AM