Starting issues
12-18-2007, 04:41 PM
#18
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Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
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You're putting way too much anti-sieze on them..... you put a tiny dab on a couple threads. Looks like you slopped it on with a paint roller.
The plugs are seriously fouled. Its pouring in fuel the engine doesn't need. The plugs are attempting to light the mixture, hence the carbon on everything. You have to figure out why its pouring in all the fuel.
What size injectors do you have, and was the PCM tuned for that? Did the car start fine before you mucked with the valve adjustment? Is your exhaust system complete? Are the O2 sensors screwed in and connected? Is the coolant temp sensor connected?
You really have provided very little info about the engine's history, how it ran previously, what has been done to the engine to adapt it to the car, etc.
You need to provide detailed info, or your chances of solving the problem are nil.
The plugs are seriously fouled. Its pouring in fuel the engine doesn't need. The plugs are attempting to light the mixture, hence the carbon on everything. You have to figure out why its pouring in all the fuel.
What size injectors do you have, and was the PCM tuned for that? Did the car start fine before you mucked with the valve adjustment? Is your exhaust system complete? Are the O2 sensors screwed in and connected? Is the coolant temp sensor connected?
You really have provided very little info about the engine's history, how it ran previously, what has been done to the engine to adapt it to the car, etc.
You need to provide detailed info, or your chances of solving the problem are nil.
12-18-2007, 05:54 PM
#19
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Killeen, Texas
Posts: 347
thank you for the reply injuneer.
i just finished installing new plugs with less anti-sieze
the injectors are stock.
the exhaust is now complete
When i adjusted the valves the MAF was removed, also i was running open headers during that time.
before i adjusted the valves the car started good it just wouldnt rev past 2500. after the adjustment it ran great. i shut it off for the night after the adjustment. the next day i installed the rest of the exhaust, and that is when it was having a hard time starting.
before and during and after the adjustment (maf removed) the car was running excessively rich (the fumes burned my eyes)
o2 sensors are screwed in and plugged in.
CTS is new and plugged in
a little history on the car
I bought it in october for 1700.00 it had a spun bearing. I bought a rebuilt engine from a guy a little ways from here for 450.00 . He said it was rebuilt less than 300 miles ago. he put the engine in the car and he sold it. the guy who bought the car from him wrecked it driving home from buying it. the guy who originaly had the car bought it back and parted it out. He said the engine ran great.
after i bought the engine i had to put in a cam from a 95 (the engine is a 93) due to dowl pin length. Since i had to put the cam in i had to replace the oil pan gasket. while i had the oil pan gasket off i discovered small gobs of white lithium grease (or some other heavy grease, but it was white) i also could see very prominate cross hatch patterns on the bottom of the cylinder. so i do believe it has been rebuilt.
I got the engine all back together and installed it. everything except the headers and airfoil are stock. Now here i am. I have never driven this car
i just finished installing new plugs with less anti-sieze
the injectors are stock.
the exhaust is now complete
When i adjusted the valves the MAF was removed, also i was running open headers during that time.
before i adjusted the valves the car started good it just wouldnt rev past 2500. after the adjustment it ran great. i shut it off for the night after the adjustment. the next day i installed the rest of the exhaust, and that is when it was having a hard time starting.
before and during and after the adjustment (maf removed) the car was running excessively rich (the fumes burned my eyes)
o2 sensors are screwed in and plugged in.
CTS is new and plugged in
a little history on the car
I bought it in october for 1700.00 it had a spun bearing. I bought a rebuilt engine from a guy a little ways from here for 450.00 . He said it was rebuilt less than 300 miles ago. he put the engine in the car and he sold it. the guy who bought the car from him wrecked it driving home from buying it. the guy who originaly had the car bought it back and parted it out. He said the engine ran great.
after i bought the engine i had to put in a cam from a 95 (the engine is a 93) due to dowl pin length. Since i had to put the cam in i had to replace the oil pan gasket. while i had the oil pan gasket off i discovered small gobs of white lithium grease (or some other heavy grease, but it was white) i also could see very prominate cross hatch patterns on the bottom of the cylinder. so i do believe it has been rebuilt.
I got the engine all back together and installed it. everything except the headers and airfoil are stock. Now here i am. I have never driven this car
12-18-2007, 06:24 PM
#20
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Killeen, Texas
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the new spark plugs get it to start up good. however my fuel pressure is going crazy. here is a link to a video of it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=021NZl8pwgU
the noise in the background is the smog port open on the passenger side header
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=021NZl8pwgU
the noise in the background is the smog port open on the passenger side header
12-18-2007, 09:45 PM
#22
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Location: Killeen, Texas
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12-19-2007, 05:20 AM
#23
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Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
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Are you saying you do not have the AIR connections on the headers plugged? That will cause the engine too run extremely rich, because the exhaust gasses flowing past the connections "induct" air, the O2 sensors see the air, and cause it to run rich. Why would you run the engine with the work incomplete?
Does it start better the first time after you "clear" the PCM?
Does it start better the first time after you "clear" the PCM?
12-19-2007, 05:48 AM
#24
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Join Date: Sep 2004
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Good pickup... I chose to ignore that post
Are you saying you do not have the AIR connections on the headers plugged? That will cause the engine too run extremely rich, because the exhaust gasses flowing past the connections "induct" air, the O2 sensors see the air, and cause it to run rich. Why would you run the engine with the work incomplete?
Does it start better the first time after you "clear" the PCM?
Does it start better the first time after you "clear" the PCM?
12-19-2007, 07:54 AM
#25
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Killeen, Texas
Posts: 347
Are you saying you do not have the AIR connections on the headers plugged? That will cause the engine too run extremely rich, because the exhaust gasses flowing past the connections "induct" air, the O2 sensors see the air, and cause it to run rich. Why would you run the engine with the work incomplete?
Does it start better the first time after you "clear" the PCM?
Does it start better the first time after you "clear" the PCM?
Yes, the AIR is unplugged on the passengers side. The drivers side is hooked up. when i tried to remove the air tube from the stock manifold it stripped
so i ordered one from gmpartsdirect. they sent me the wrong one the one they sent me is from a caprice. I noticed this when I got the used regulator a couple weeks ago, so while i was there i took the rubber hose for this particular AIR tube as well. now I just need a threaded adapter to make it work I was not aware that this would cause it to run rich, but it makes sense. Ill have it fixed by this evening!
Does this explain the erratic fuel pressure?
Last edited by Tex95Z; 12-19-2007 at 08:32 AM.
12-19-2007, 10:02 AM
#27
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Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
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Definitely something wrong with either the actual fuel pressure or the gauge. Appears that the fuel pressure is at 40psi, then gradually drops to ~28psi, then jumps bakc up to 40psi, and the cycle starts again. No reason that should happen.
Have you checked the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold? Trying to figure out what would cause that wierd pressure pattern..... Almost like the FPR diaphragm is leaking, the pressure drops until the regulator fills up with fuel, the fuel burps into the manifold and the cycle starts all over again. If that was happening, you would see fuel in the vacuum line.
What is the fuel pressure, at idle, with the vacuum line disconnected? Does fuel leak out of the FPR? Does the pressure follow the same pattern with the vacuum line connected and disconnected?
Have you checked the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold? Trying to figure out what would cause that wierd pressure pattern..... Almost like the FPR diaphragm is leaking, the pressure drops until the regulator fills up with fuel, the fuel burps into the manifold and the cycle starts all over again. If that was happening, you would see fuel in the vacuum line.
What is the fuel pressure, at idle, with the vacuum line disconnected? Does fuel leak out of the FPR? Does the pressure follow the same pattern with the vacuum line connected and disconnected?
12-19-2007, 06:15 PM
#28
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Killeen, Texas
Posts: 347
Definitely something wrong with either the actual fuel pressure or the gauge. Appears that the fuel pressure is at 40psi, then gradually drops to ~28psi, then jumps bakc up to 40psi, and the cycle starts again. No reason that should happen.
Have you checked the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold? Trying to figure out what would cause that wierd pressure pattern..... Almost like the FPR diaphragm is leaking, the pressure drops until the regulator fills up with fuel, the fuel burps into the manifold and the cycle starts all over again. If that was happening, you would see fuel in the vacuum line.
What is the fuel pressure, at idle, with the vacuum line disconnected? Does fuel leak out of the FPR? Does the pressure follow the same pattern with the vacuum line connected and disconnected?
Have you checked the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold? Trying to figure out what would cause that wierd pressure pattern..... Almost like the FPR diaphragm is leaking, the pressure drops until the regulator fills up with fuel, the fuel burps into the manifold and the cycle starts all over again. If that was happening, you would see fuel in the vacuum line.
What is the fuel pressure, at idle, with the vacuum line disconnected? Does fuel leak out of the FPR? Does the pressure follow the same pattern with the vacuum line connected and disconnected?
pressure @ idle with vac line off is about 49 and erratic. Still jumping all over the place.
no fuel in vac line