stay M6 or go A4
#1
stay M6 or go A4
I believe my tranny is on it's last legs. I'm trying to decide if I want to rebuild it or put in an auto, and what auto tranny to put in if I do that. What do you all think? I'm going to do much more research on this but just thougt I'd throw the Q out there.
#6
Originally posted by trax
Only get an auto if you're going to drag race the car regularly.
Consider calling a trans shop about the T56 if you think it needs rebuilding. It could be something as simple as a bent shift fork.
Only get an auto if you're going to drag race the car regularly.
Consider calling a trans shop about the T56 if you think it needs rebuilding. It could be something as simple as a bent shift fork.
#8
Originally posted by trax
Only get an auto if you're going to drag race the car regularly.
Consider calling a trans shop about the T56 if you think it needs rebuilding. It could be something as simple as a bent shift fork.
Only get an auto if you're going to drag race the car regularly.
Consider calling a trans shop about the T56 if you think it needs rebuilding. It could be something as simple as a bent shift fork.
#9
well, I went the a4 swap for two reasons. the car was technically the wife's car and she said we're either selling it for an auto, or I can make it auto. the sec. reason is its alot easier to drag race an auto. easier on suspension parts, quicker 60fts w/a good stall conv. ofcourse, and very easy to run consistently if you set it up to automatically shift at certain rpm.
I think 700r4 is cheapest/easiest one to swap in.
you'll need
tbody from 93LT1 $50 from me just switched to holley 52mm
throttle cable from same car ~$40 dealer
throttle cable bracket on side of intake for new cable ~$10 dealer
ext. cooler and/or auto radiator (I just have a b&m supercooler)
custom tune in pcm to run A4 program, then delete all functions for trans exc. speedo calibrations. nows a good time to delete all emissions stuff.
a4 crossmember~ $30 dealer
stall conv.-your choice. between $200-800
flex plate and bolts ~$100 from summit
same driveshaft
same trans mount
same torque arm
torque arm mount for side of trans that matches your torque arm$?
shifter/cable $100-300 use stock m6 console/boot. open a couple stitches at top of boot to allow shifter shaft through. this is by far the hardest most involved part of the swap w/me telling you what to buy.
and last but not least, cooler lines to the cooler.
if your looking for a 700r4, try to find a 87 and up trans. beefier internals. but 85 and up will be fine. def. get a good shift kit. the trans go is more exp. and harder to install, but def. worth the extra time/money (IMHO)
thats it. easy as that. you will also have to do a little custom wiring to wire in the lockup sw./harness since its not in there now. its very easy though, should cost about $80 or so for the kit. make sure the shifter you get has reverse lockout, reverse sw. for the lights, and neutral safety sw. built in. you can just make a jumper harness to go from the stock neutral safety sw. on the clutch pedal to the shifter. any other questions shoot me an email.
chris
I think 700r4 is cheapest/easiest one to swap in.
you'll need
tbody from 93LT1 $50 from me just switched to holley 52mm
throttle cable from same car ~$40 dealer
throttle cable bracket on side of intake for new cable ~$10 dealer
ext. cooler and/or auto radiator (I just have a b&m supercooler)
custom tune in pcm to run A4 program, then delete all functions for trans exc. speedo calibrations. nows a good time to delete all emissions stuff.
a4 crossmember~ $30 dealer
stall conv.-your choice. between $200-800
flex plate and bolts ~$100 from summit
same driveshaft
same trans mount
same torque arm
torque arm mount for side of trans that matches your torque arm$?
shifter/cable $100-300 use stock m6 console/boot. open a couple stitches at top of boot to allow shifter shaft through. this is by far the hardest most involved part of the swap w/me telling you what to buy.
and last but not least, cooler lines to the cooler.
if your looking for a 700r4, try to find a 87 and up trans. beefier internals. but 85 and up will be fine. def. get a good shift kit. the trans go is more exp. and harder to install, but def. worth the extra time/money (IMHO)
thats it. easy as that. you will also have to do a little custom wiring to wire in the lockup sw./harness since its not in there now. its very easy though, should cost about $80 or so for the kit. make sure the shifter you get has reverse lockout, reverse sw. for the lights, and neutral safety sw. built in. you can just make a jumper harness to go from the stock neutral safety sw. on the clutch pedal to the shifter. any other questions shoot me an email.
chris
Last edited by IrocSS85; 02-23-2004 at 12:00 AM.
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