Dave89IROC

well, first, charge the battery

raxxus

Update:

Took my battery to advance, they said it was bad ( I bought it in 2004 ), so I bought a new battery and took it home. Installed it in the car, and the lights turn on, but no noise when I went to crank over the car. When I took the key out, the security light stayed on for a while, so I ran back inside to find my original key. It did it with both keys... I don't know what to do now?

BTC

Sorry I can't be of any help, but what kind of opti did you go with? What kinds of issues were you having before you installed a new one?

raxxus

I went with the opti from auto zone. Actually I had already installed one 2 years ago with a lifetime warranty, so it was free. I had problems with misfires, and code hi-res/lo-res failure were going off. ( The inside of it was a RUST pit )After I installed the new one, it ran perfect, like it did when I first got the car.

raxxus

Update:

I just used my spare key, and it fired up. But it threw an SES light, 36 hi-res failure. I think my "new" opti isn't worth a crap!! I'm confused tho, I thought when that code was enough to light an ses light, that it wouldn't even start? I'm going to clear the code and just see how she runs...


Update again!:

The code (36 hi res failure) appears every time I start her up after clearing it. It usually takes 1-2 attempts to fire her up, then she runs pretty good (drove it around the block and ran it under first hard (spun the tires) and under heavy load (2 or 3rd gear) while flooring, and no detection of a miss or anything. Basically, it is just causing hard starts... is this typical of a code 36?

stephenspann27

Hrmm If the security light came on it means the chip in your key didn't read the right resistance... The car won't crank for I believe 3 mins or something, then it resets it's self. You can also disc, the battery and reconnect it to reset it. Usually what happen is the wires that rotate with the ignition inside the steering column wear and start reading resistance off the inside of the column. If you think this might be the case you can put a resistor inline that matches the resistance of your key.... there are tons of post about it....

throb

The high res DTC will not prevent the car from running. The 16DTC (low-res pulse failure) will disable the fuel pump and injectors though. I suppose it's possible your new opti is junk, but before jumping to that conclusion, check to make sure there are no open or grounded circuits in the opti wiring. Here is a link to Shoebox's website, should be able to help. http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test Good luck!

raxxus

Another Update:

I've been using my commuter car to get back and forth to work and school, but here is what usually happens on the times I try to drive my car:

1 Cranks, no start. Cranks, no start. Cranks over and starts right away, but with an SES light ( 36).

2 Won't even crank. Lights and everything comes on fine, but won't crank ( new battery ) Once it left the security light on, and I tried my spare and after waiting 3 minutes it started up. Next time, no security light, and no difference on key swapping...

3 Cranks over fine, runs perfect, but randomly turns off when idling. Starts back up fine and runs fine. ( NO ses light, even when it dies. lights and everything else still on)

One of those three things happen every time I go to use my car.

Sounds like my car has a multitude of problems, from a bad (possibly) new opti from the code 36, to electrical problems with it not cranking or just turning off.

raxxus

Update:

For curiosity sake, I pulled the wiring by the intake to the Opti, brushed it off, and re installed it and now it runs fine! The clip on it is broken, but it is only a year old ( bought it from Casper's ), and now it seems to be good to go! I went ahead and ordered another one so it'll have a working clip, but just wanted to say thanks to everyone helped!