View Poll Results: Which should I do?
Keep CC306 and add Nitrous
6
42.86%
Keep the CC306 and work on suspension and tuning
6
42.86%
Ditch it and get a LE2 or LE3 cam
2
14.29%
Why dont you have a LSX motor yet, you fool!
0
0%
Voters: 14. You may not vote on this poll
Stick with CC306 or go another direction?
06-11-2009, 05:28 PM
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: The Wild West
Posts: 5,907
Stick with CC306 or go another direction?
Well I have a CC306 in my car and I was going to put some LE2 size heads on the car in a few weeks. So just out of curiousity who thinks I could keep the CC306 and put the extra $500-600 towards suspenion, ported intake, 58mm TB, and/or nitrous and who thinks I should go to a LE cam. I personally think swapping the cam would result in minimal gains in my racing power band, especially considering the cost. LE cams would improve my low end, but personally if I want low end I'll drive my 1200 ft/lb TQ diesel.
The car sees maybe 60 miles a month, has a FMVB 4L80e, spooled 4.11 9" and weight reduction. I'll also be having my Vigilante restalled to reflect the camshaft and/or gearing change, probably to a 3600-4000rpm. Has Prostars with slicks and skinnies for the track.
Just toying with the idea...the thought of 150-200 shot for the same amount of money is making me greedy
Some of my modifications:
LCA's, BMR Trak Pack, Eibach drag launch and stock springs, BMR boxed SFC, stock shocks =[
Ford 9" 4.11 Spooled, 4L80e FMVB, 3200 Vigilante Lockup, B&M Mega Shifter
Hooker LT's, 3" Duals, E-WP, 42lb injectors, ASP 23% underdrive, 1.6 Pro Mags, Moroso/LS1 lid intake
-Dustin-
The car sees maybe 60 miles a month, has a FMVB 4L80e, spooled 4.11 9" and weight reduction. I'll also be having my Vigilante restalled to reflect the camshaft and/or gearing change, probably to a 3600-4000rpm. Has Prostars with slicks and skinnies for the track.
Just toying with the idea...the thought of 150-200 shot for the same amount of money is making me greedy
Some of my modifications:
LCA's, BMR Trak Pack, Eibach drag launch and stock springs, BMR boxed SFC, stock shocks =[
Ford 9" 4.11 Spooled, 4L80e FMVB, 3200 Vigilante Lockup, B&M Mega Shifter
Hooker LT's, 3" Duals, E-WP, 42lb injectors, ASP 23% underdrive, 1.6 Pro Mags, Moroso/LS1 lid intake
-Dustin-
Last edited by Bersaglieri; 06-11-2009 at 05:37 PM.
06-11-2009, 05:40 PM
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: The Wild West
Posts: 5,907
Wet shot. Not to mention leaving the CC306 in there would save my time and money for removal, install, gaskets, etc.
LE2 and LE3 are just generalizations, there are some pretty big LE2 cams out there. Basically these cams are better suited for a N/A approach. The CC306 however enjoys the nitrous
-Dustin-
LE2 and LE3 are just generalizations, there are some pretty big LE2 cams out there. Basically these cams are better suited for a N/A approach. The CC306 however enjoys the nitrous
-Dustin-
06-11-2009, 05:42 PM
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: orlando florida
Posts: 720
keep the cc306 i have a 1994 z28 6sp cc306 le2 heads all the goodies and this car pulls like the spaceshuttle lol ..I love this cam im running 987 springs comp pro mags 1.6 kooks equil length headers ory hooker areo chamber exu granellie mass air flow cold air intake stock bottem end twisting to 7000 rpms and i put about 60 mile a month on mine also cause i have my 1997 z28 6sp daily driver ..mightymouse383 on this site has driven in my car and he has a 1997 formula 6sp and hes copying my setup .no street car has wooped me yet ..Knock on wood lol ..So yea keep it ..
06-12-2009, 02:08 AM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Granger, IN
Posts: 953
Keep the 306 you will be happy you had the money to spend else where
I personally would start with suspension get some qa1 r series up front and some cheap comp engineering drag shocks out back and you can pretty well dial in a killer launch with those 3-4 clicks on the front dead stiff on the rear
then get a kit and shoot it out of the hole
youll like it
I personally would start with suspension get some qa1 r series up front and some cheap comp engineering drag shocks out back and you can pretty well dial in a killer launch with those 3-4 clicks on the front dead stiff on the rear
then get a kit and shoot it out of the hole
youll like it
06-13-2009, 10:12 AM
#7
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: The Wild West
Posts: 5,907
I'm kinda surprised everyone so far is saying keep the CC306. So many people talk about how crappy the cam/lobes are. Although people have made 400rwhp with it and LE1 heads. It's went 11's with and without heads, and nines with N2O, so guess it cant be that bad huh 
Well the money I would save would probably go towards porting the intake, 58mm TB, thick rear sway bar, and drag shocks.
Nitrous is something I need to learn alot more about before I use it. Although it seems the CC306 responds very well to the bottle, and I intend to find out for myself.
As soon as my truck gets back on the road the heads are taking a trip
-Dustin-
Well the money I would save would probably go towards porting the intake, 58mm TB, thick rear sway bar, and drag shocks.
Nitrous is something I need to learn alot more about before I use it. Although it seems the CC306 responds very well to the bottle, and I intend to find out for myself.
As soon as my truck gets back on the road the heads are taking a trip
-Dustin-
06-13-2009, 10:28 AM
#8
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Lampasas, Tx
Posts: 362
My thinking is that the cam swap is a pretty involved operation, and its not like you are running a hotcam where the jump to a bigger cam would be considerable. Plus thats a pretty good mod list you got there with the money you would save. Would help you with ET and HP gains and compliment the new LE heads.
Good luck with it and let us know what happens!
Jeff
Good luck with it and let us know what happens!
Jeff
06-13-2009, 10:28 AM
#9
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 321
I would ditch it.
It is true that a custom grind would only make the same or more peak hp with the same heads, but you will have more tq, more average hp("area under the curve"), better street manners, and it will be easier to tune then the old school 306.
All that should equal better ETs in the long run, even if it makes the same on a dyno. Saying that is has went 11s before NA and 9s on nitrous doesnt mean too much since that is the exception, not the rule. My stock shortblock went 11s NA all day and was puny in comparison(22x/23x .57x lift), and ABBA is painfully close to 10s all motor with an almost identical cam in a 383.
It is hard to compare cams using ETs since that is so depending on the driver, elevation, suspension, gears, and the cars setup as a whole. With enough nitrous I bet it wouldnt be hard at all to run 10s on the stock cam with a dedicated track car.
It is true that a custom grind would only make the same or more peak hp with the same heads, but you will have more tq, more average hp("area under the curve"), better street manners, and it will be easier to tune then the old school 306.
All that should equal better ETs in the long run, even if it makes the same on a dyno. Saying that is has went 11s before NA and 9s on nitrous doesnt mean too much since that is the exception, not the rule. My stock shortblock went 11s NA all day and was puny in comparison(22x/23x .57x lift), and ABBA is painfully close to 10s all motor with an almost identical cam in a 383.
It is hard to compare cams using ETs since that is so depending on the driver, elevation, suspension, gears, and the cars setup as a whole. With enough nitrous I bet it wouldnt be hard at all to run 10s on the stock cam with a dedicated track car.
06-14-2009, 11:13 AM
#11
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,705
I would ditch it.
It is true that a custom grind would only make the same or more peak hp with the same heads, but you will have more tq, more average hp("area under the curve"), better street manners, and it will be easier to tune then the old school 306.
All that should equal better ETs in the long run, even if it makes the same on a dyno. Saying that is has went 11s before NA and 9s on nitrous doesnt mean too much since that is the exception, not the rule. My stock shortblock went 11s NA all day and was puny in comparison(22x/23x .57x lift), and ABBA is painfully close to 10s all motor with an almost identical cam in a 383.
It is hard to compare cams using ETs since that is so depending on the driver, elevation, suspension, gears, and the cars setup as a whole. With enough nitrous I bet it wouldnt be hard at all to run 10s on the stock cam with a dedicated track car.
It is true that a custom grind would only make the same or more peak hp with the same heads, but you will have more tq, more average hp("area under the curve"), better street manners, and it will be easier to tune then the old school 306.
All that should equal better ETs in the long run, even if it makes the same on a dyno. Saying that is has went 11s before NA and 9s on nitrous doesnt mean too much since that is the exception, not the rule. My stock shortblock went 11s NA all day and was puny in comparison(22x/23x .57x lift), and ABBA is painfully close to 10s all motor with an almost identical cam in a 383.
It is hard to compare cams using ETs since that is so depending on the driver, elevation, suspension, gears, and the cars setup as a whole. With enough nitrous I bet it wouldnt be hard at all to run 10s on the stock cam with a dedicated track car.
I would go custom, and than address those stock shocks.
08-06-2009, 09:42 AM
#12
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: The Wild West
Posts: 5,907
I'm one indecisive SOB, it's time to tear down the motor and send out the heads and I still have not made a decision on this. I was talking to Lloyd about getting the intake ported with the heads and he hinted toward doing something about the camshaft before porting the intake. It sounds like if I'm going N/A to get another cam, but if I'm going to spray to keep the CC306 since it responds to N2O so well. Although a good track dedicated LE3 cam looks like it would net me around 20hp/20ft/lbs from 5500 and up over the CC306.
Another angle is since I have the drivetrain to handle 800hp why not keep the cam and spray the hell out it, the only weak link right now is the bottom end and if that goes it's a good reason to step up to a forged setup. A healthly shot of spray would also silence the 3 SRT4's, 2003 Terminator, Procharged TransAm, and the GT500 at work. Well the Terminator would be tough, he's got "700rwhp before nitrous", but he is still in the low 11's.
More thoughts or opinions, other than me being indecisive and picky.
-Dustin-
Another angle is since I have the drivetrain to handle 800hp why not keep the cam and spray the hell out it, the only weak link right now is the bottom end and if that goes it's a good reason to step up to a forged setup. A healthly shot of spray would also silence the 3 SRT4's, 2003 Terminator, Procharged TransAm, and the GT500 at work. Well the Terminator would be tough, he's got "700rwhp before nitrous", but he is still in the low 11's.
More thoughts or opinions, other than me being indecisive and picky.
-Dustin-
08-06-2009, 11:01 AM
#13
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Moore OK
Posts: 2,182
08-06-2009, 11:27 AM
#14
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 574
It's an individual preference. Do you want torque down low or do you want to spin it fast to get into the powerband. I really like the cam in my sig. It pulls hard down low and all the way thru.
Last edited by RUDEDOG; 08-06-2009 at 01:25 PM.
08-06-2009, 11:31 AM
#15
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Carol Stream, Il.
Posts: 3,557
Did you talk to him about tweaking a cam for the nitrous? You would lose a little NA power but gain more on the bottle as I'm sure you already know. Me, I would keep the 306 and do the rest of the mods you mentioned. If then your not satisfied, rebuild it for a nice 2 stage system.