1racerdude

Where did you get that info-- a Kracker Jack box maybe!!!!
There is no way a pinion can move front to rear unless the pinion nut comes loose or the brgs wear.

EDIT: You must not understand how a rear end works.

1982z28with18s

Maybe with an online calculator but not in the real world.(I'm guessing thats how you got the 127 because f-body.org/gears shows 127) With 3.73's, 3000 midwest and 26" et streets(which are slightly taller than stock height tires) I was hitting the 6500 limiter before traps with the converter unlocked at 115mph. 4.30's in an auto is NUTS unless your running a 28" tire.

Why won't you be able to keep the rev's high enough for the le3 cam with 3.73's? With 3.73's and the 3000 stall, I only dropped off to ~4800 between gears. I think that would be fine for the le3 package since it should have a nice torque curve anyway. What rpm are you trying to keep between gears?

In my opinion, you'll probably run better et's and mph with 3.73's than 4.10's or 4.30's because you won't be hitting OD before traps. A perfect setup would be crossing traps at the top of 3rd, you never want to shift into OD in the 1/4.

Also, the le3 package should easily break 120 mph(even in an auto) if the car is set up correctly. I did 116.7mph on stock bottem end with Lloyds heads that flowed not as good as the le3 heads and a BABY Joe. O. cam.(220/226) in 2350 DA. That would've been 118mph+ in a stalled auto in better weather. I'm sure a bigger tb, electric waterpump, and dynotune(I was on a pcmforless tune) would've given me at least another mph.

93camaroLT1

Everyone has their opinion about "streetable". If you have the 4.10 gears, 3600 stall and good tuning, the LE 3 will be just as streetable as a GM 847 or cc 306. Your driving style, gears, stall and the RPM you wanna shift at will determine if that cam is the best choice or not though.

The LE 2 set up is about all you would want to run on the street with 3.73 gears. Even though the LE3 will make another 10 HP or so, it will only start making this extra HP above 5500 RPM. From 3500 to 5000 RPM, the LE2 and LE3 cam will make about the same power and below 3000 RPM, the LE 2 actually makes a lil more HP and TQ. The LE 3 is really meant to be used with 4.10-4.30 gears and a 3600 stall or six speed. If you keep the RPM's up, it is an awesome cam but the LE 2 will have a power band starting sooner and be more fun to drive if you are using 3.73 gears. I guess it depends on how you drive the car. If you have 4.10's and a 3600 stall, it will be faster at the track with the LE3 but as I mentioned, the power below 3000 RPM is a lil less so street driving as a lil different. Not that it is a pig or anything. . . . it will still run well but it will just not run quite as good in this RPM range as the LE2 will. The LE 2 can use the 3.73 gears that you have and CAN use a stall as mild as a 2600 but the track times will obviously be better with a 3000/3600 or even 4200 stall. If it is a GOOD converter with a 2.0 + STR and lock up feature, street driving is fine and it will lock up on the high way.

******** the above is what lloyd emailed me about gearing and stall, and being that he does head/cam packages for a living, and pretty damn well from what i've heard, I think i'll take his word on it...

1982z28with18s

Lloyd does know what he is doing, but 4.10's WILL cause you to hit OD before traps with a 26" tire. I talk to Lloyd via email almost every day still so I know that he knows his setups and when I started dialin' in my old setup I talked with Joe Overton about what mods to run to get my setup perfect. 4.10's with the le3 will make the car a better street car maybe, BUT it will run slower at the track because you will hit OD before traps.(if you got it running what it should....120+mph traps)

The main reason my old setup ran so good was because it was setup damn near perfect for the WHOLE PACKAGE. I crossed traps at ~6100-6200 with the converter locked at 116mph traps. With better weather and the rest of my supporting mods it would've been crossing at 6500ish which would've been perfect.

I'm now running the le2 package on a 383 with 3.73's(just got it finished a few weeks ago), but I plan on stepping down gears because I don't want to run a taller tire on the bottle. Does that mean I'm going to run worse on motor than if I kept the 3.73's? You bet it does, but I bet the car will still turn a 11.5x on drag radials with a 3.55 or 3.42 gear when I get it all dialed in. Hell the car went 11.78 on a shakedown pass. This time around the setup isn't going to be perfect for n/a at the track, but its going to be perfect for when its on the bottle and on the streets on drag radials. I refuse to put a cage in my daily driver so I won't be making many passes before I get booted for the year. Only thing I want from the track is a 10 sec pass on drag radials(which shouldn't be a problem), then the majority of rest of my racing will be off the track.

You seem like your headed in the right direction, but you sound like too much of a "internet" racer.(especially after the 127mph comment) You just can't listen to one person though, even though you may think he knows everything. Lloyd does know a lot, but each setup is different and needs to be dialed in and he'll be the first to tell you he doesn't know everything. Get the car to run 11.10's n/a and then I'll have more respect for you, but until then please understand I'm trying to give you some helpful information. I would just like to see someone run the le3 package to its potential, which should be 10.xx at 122+mph on stock bottem end.

On a side note, I forgot to mention I was shifting at 6375 when my rpms were dropping off to 4800ish. With a 3600-4200 stall and a 6800rpm redline a GOOD converter should allow you to stay above 5500 rpms even with 3.73's. 6800 redline and 3.73's should put you real close to the mph the setup should pull if you lock the converter. You might have to end up running a 27" tire to keep you from hitting the limiter if its a 6800.

Got any info on the rest of the car?

Now that I'm done typing a book, I hope some of this information is helpful to you and others.

93camaroLT1

The car right now is stock besides DR's, intake, test pipe, and borla catback.. I am going to get either 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 headers to true duels dumping just over the axles, 36 lb injectors, 58 mm throttle body, shift kit (hopefully get a little more life out the stock trans),comp R lifters, etc etc. I highly doubt i'll even hit a 120mph with the LE 3 head/cam setup with the stock bottom end. it only makes 10 hp more at a higher rpm, but loses 10 torque under 3000 rpm compared to the LE 2 cam. even look at your sig, your up to a 383 with the LE 2 heads and cam and still only pushing 11.7, no way 10 more hp with stock bottom end will go into the 10s. although that would be dope as hell if it did, im definetly not gonna set my expectations that high. what were you running with the 6100-6200 at 116mph run, 4.10s or 3.73?? if it was 4.10s and my rev limiter is set at 6800 that's 600-700 rpm left to go.. if it was 3.73's you are right about running 3.73s with the LE 3 head/cam package (i'd be nice cuz I wouldnt have to worry about breaking the rear end nearly as soon)

EDIT. holy ****, i just read your post above where you mentioned you were running 3.73s, thats nuts that your rpm was up that high at 116mph.. I'll have to consider that, I'm not sure though, 4.10s would be significantly faster on the street where i wont be going much over a 100-110 mph where is were i do a lot of racing. thanks for the info though.

Loadre

4.10s on a built motor and loose converter on the street would be a chore to hook up.

CCCCCYA

You got that right. I'm on 3.73's with stock TA. With this new 383 I screwed together, anything below 40 MPH is instant smoke. Thats with NO shot on the car yet. I am constantly amazed by these guys getting ultra low 60' times out of basically stock rear suspensions. I have the hardest time outrunning much slower cars on the street due to my propensity to turn a perfectly good set of tires to smoke without even trying. I've given up on this suspension too, as I'll be going 4-link shortly. I KNOW I'll be able to hook it up then.

Dave C.

Loadre

1.63 with no chassis or suspension mods.

M/T ET DRs are your friend.

CCCCCYA

I run MT ET Steets on salad shooters @ around 12 to 16 lb's air (depending on what's working best that night) and I spin em all the way through 1st and just a little bit into 2nd. I've got relocation brackets and tubular LCA's, as well. I dunno. Maybe I'm doin something wrong (ya think???!!). Usually get a 1.9x to 2.x+ Best I've ever gotten was a 1.85 short time. Damn car dropped a hole on that run too, so I have no idea what this thing will do when all 8 fire and I can get it out of the hole, but I'm determined to find out!

Congrats on your 60' man. That's awsome

Dave C.

Loadre

Hot Rod cut a better 60' with M/Ts drag radial than they did with the ET street. You loading the car up on the line or just punching it? What kind of burnout?

PM me, we've hijacked this thread enough.

93camaroLT1

thats pretty bad man, I hit 1.9s with a practically bone stock Z with stock converter and stock gears. (with DR's ofcourse)

1982z28with18s

If you read my sig, I ran the 11.78 with the 383 on a shakedown pass on drag radials. It still has a lot more in it, I've only made 2 passes with the setup. It'll go 11.10's on slicks come spring with the 3.55 or 3.42 gear.

ScreamnChicken

That isn't that much hook. With 3.73s, 2800 vig, and 17" Nitto DRs I have a best 60' of 1.69 and more 1.7s than I can count.
I plan on porting the heads this winter and throwing a little juice on her, so the 12-bolt is going in before anything else. If I am already spending all this money to go fast, why would I skimp out on something like the rear end? Especially when the closed good track that actually hooks is 200 miles away in Iowa and I drive the car down there ready to race.

1982z28with18s

The main reason some people on here can pull 1.6x's on nittos and others can't is TRACK PREP. Our track prep blows.

Why spend 2k+ on something you don't necessarly need? It'd be like building a low compression 355 and then running n/a with just bolt ons. All your doing is spending a lot of money to be slower. Ya the 355 will be more reliable than a stock bottom end, but it's not needed.