ScottyZ28

I have a stock LT1 350 engine that I'm going to have rebuilt, and want some more hp and tq when it's done. In the 350-400 range. I've looked in Summit and online and am considering a top-end kit from Trick Flow or Edelbrock. Trick Flow is cheaper and produces more power, with more contents in it's kit. I was reading about Advanced Induction as well on other forums but don't know the best option to go with. The car is not going to be a strip or race car, all street. I just want more horsepower, with minimal modification to the other parts of the car. I've been told I need a good torque converter for that kind of power, as well as headers, and I also need to make sure my transmission can handle it if I go with that much. The car currently has 110,000 miles and has MSD wires, new MSD cap&rotor, and Blaster coil. It's CATS tuned and has a K&N CAI, as well as custom exhaust. That's about the only performance mods on it. The car has a blown head gasket, and is sitting right now so I'm trying to get all the info/facts so I can make a decision. I'm also looking to have it painted and the shop I plan on having it rebuilt at quoted me $2500 to rebuild without boring.

vangill

i paid that much to have mine "rebuilt" its been 6 months and the car still wont run right. engines getting pulled next week to make fix the 2500 dollar mistake

make sure the shop is reputable and can prove it, and also knows the lt1.

ScottyZ28

Sorry man, the shop looks pretty reputable from my visit, one of the guys I talked to knew alot about the LT1. They're a performance customs shop, with all kinds of trophys and drag strip photos on the walls. They sounded like they knew what they were doing. Hey I noticed in your signature that you have the Loyd Elliot stage 1, what do you think of them? I'm looking at the stage 2's as well as Advanced Induction, but can't seem to find any "packages" I keep hearing about on their site.

96capricemgr

Why do you want to "rebuild" it? Many "rebuilt" LT1s are actually a step backwards from stock. Lower compression crappy pistons, sloppy machining. If the head gasket did damage then yeah you need to fix it but if you caught it early you may not have to really do anything but clean it up.

The stock crank is great, the rods are decent, the pistons are a little fragile if detonated but otherwise have a nice ringpack and are lite.
Could consider a rebearing rering with maybe a rod rebuild with ARP bolts for cheap but beyond that you are looking at $900 in rods and pistons to actually buy better stuff.

I would not put anything less than a Mahle Powerpak piston in if changing pistons and if doing that I would spend the $300 on a set of say Scat 6.0" capscrew rods.

You put a basic piston in and it will be heavier than stock with a thicker ringpack that is a step backwards.

The Advanced Induction packages have the potential to put more HP to the wheels than the Edelcrap stuff makes at the flywheel and even approaching Trickflows flywheel number at the rear wheel. Trickflow is quality parts but you will see better results from ported stock castings than as cast Trickflows. The ONLY Edelbrock piece you should even consider is a throttle body in 58mm.

Far as tranny and torque converter I used ProBuilt Automatics, almost 8 years ago when my goals were MUCH milder than what I have now, needless to say I am quite pleased. I use a "budget" torque converter Edge Racing they are a little over $500 instead of the $700+ for Yank and Vig which are both very good but their billet covers are overkill for a little NA LT1 and add several hundred dollars to the price.

Going to have to budget for a Racetronix fuel pump and wiring kit and larger injectors too.

Stuff gets pricy fast

ScottyZ28

The more I look at Golen engines the more I like them. They're a little pricey but I'm starting to think they're worth it. It's all going to depend on what this shop is going to use for the rebuild and what they will charge to install this engine if I buy it.

96capricemgr

Golen is cheap junk, I strongly recommend a junkyard engine before that.

ScottyZ28

I'm thinking about having the shop do a head gasket job on both, look at the motor once they're down to the heads, go from there with any needed repairs, and do whatever work I need to on my heads. Then install a new MSD opti, change my plugs, and install a LT4 Hot Cam kit depending on their price, and what's involved. Anyone here with thoughts on a hot cam kit in a stock motor and transmission? I have a mild thump when shifting as it is, don't know if it's a mount or what, just a thought.

Grizz

Thump is prolly the tranny mount

RamAir95TA

You are at the beginnings of ending up with a 12 year old cookie-cutter setup. There are far better cam and head options out there. Not saying the hotcam is worthless of course, but for your goals it wouldn't be my first choice.

Additionally the MSD opti is considered no better than a stock AC Delco yet $100 more expensive.

ScottyZ28

@RamAir95TA:What do you reccommend for a mostly stock street car for good drivability but a better kick in hp and tq?

raulz28

The cc503 is a good proven cam if you keep the heads stock and doesn't really sacrifice much driveability.

ScottyZ28

Got this quote from Loyd Elliott, what do ya'll think?

I would suggest a set of my LE1 heads and a 220/226 .571/.565 111 LSA cam. This will work fine with stock 3.23 gears and no stall. A 218/224 .570/.565 111 LSA cam would work even better if you have 2.73 gears. 3.23 gears are more common but you could have 2.73 gears as some cam with them also.

It will have an idle similar to Hot Cam and the same drivability as Hot Cam but make more HP and TQ at every RPM.

$1200 for heads and a custom cam. This is based on you sending me your heads to start with and getting the same heads back after the work is completed. I am currently on about a 1 1/2 week turn around time.

If you need me to supply a set of heads to start with, add $250 ($1450 total).

You will also need these parts . . .

Pro form 66915 rockers
Trick flow 21407100 pushrods
Ford racing 30 lb injectors
Fel Pro 1406/1284 header/intake gaskets
Autolite 104 plugs gapped at .035"
PCMforless.com tuning
160 T stat

Other parts like oil, antifreeze, other gaskets, etc are needed but these arte the main parts specifically needed for the heads/cam, swap. You might find belts, hoses, plug wires, water pump, motor mounts, trans mount, etc, or other maintenance parts that need replacing also while doing the work.

You could add a ported intake ($200 for portwork) and a 58 MM TB and make another 20 RWHP or so if it is in the budget.

Lloyd Elliott
972-617-5671
Elliottsportworks.com