Strange problem HELP!!!!!!
#31
like he said he cant drive it all that good and it might not make it. I told him in on AIM that he needs to ground the black wire on the MAF to make sure he didnt fire the sensor ground when the O2 fried. I know alot of the sensors use the same grounds. Most people dont know it but the O2s go threw the canister purge solenoid first. I found that out with my Painless harness on my swap
#35
im think more along the lines of how much trouble I went threw to do the stock harness at first. Think I had a bad harness, swapped the Painless harness cuz the wires were discolored, and then permanently mounted all the painless stuff and cut the ends to fit and Im still having issues and now I cant return the painless one cuz I used it and im out more and more money everyday with this
#36
95loveaffair
Member
Registered: Mar 2002
Location: Clio,MI. USA
Posts: 122
Just now been reading the posts. I think you're o2 on the passenger side is bad. Here's why. When your other one shorted, you had an overly rich condition effect the entire engine. This dumped raw fuel onto the sensors, both sides. Raw fuel like that will ruin the o2. Replace the pass. side, that is the right side. If you want to check for a vacuum leak, you can spray carb cleaner near the vacuum lines or manifold at idle. If the rpm increases then you've found the leak. It's an old trick but it does work. ALSO change your engine oil. If it's been as rich as you've stated then it's likely that raw fuel has washed past the rings and gotten into the oil, thinning it out. I had o2 go bad from raw fuel dumping on them when my car was in "limp" mode from a bad opti. BTW there really isn't a limp mode, it's just a really poor running engine. I don't have my manual by me, but I think that if you lightly tap on the side of a MAF sensor and the engine rpm changes then it indicates a bad sensor sometimes. Look that one up in the Haynes manual though. Good Luck!
I second this!!!
Member
Registered: Mar 2002
Location: Clio,MI. USA
Posts: 122
Just now been reading the posts. I think you're o2 on the passenger side is bad. Here's why. When your other one shorted, you had an overly rich condition effect the entire engine. This dumped raw fuel onto the sensors, both sides. Raw fuel like that will ruin the o2. Replace the pass. side, that is the right side. If you want to check for a vacuum leak, you can spray carb cleaner near the vacuum lines or manifold at idle. If the rpm increases then you've found the leak. It's an old trick but it does work. ALSO change your engine oil. If it's been as rich as you've stated then it's likely that raw fuel has washed past the rings and gotten into the oil, thinning it out. I had o2 go bad from raw fuel dumping on them when my car was in "limp" mode from a bad opti. BTW there really isn't a limp mode, it's just a really poor running engine. I don't have my manual by me, but I think that if you lightly tap on the side of a MAF sensor and the engine rpm changes then it indicates a bad sensor sometimes. Look that one up in the Haynes manual though. Good Luck!
I second this!!!
#37
Originally posted by mc63
95loveaffair
Member
Registered: Mar 2002
Location: Clio,MI. USA
Posts: 122
Just now been reading the posts. I think you're o2 on the passenger side is bad. Here's why. When your other one shorted, you had an overly rich condition effect the entire engine. This dumped raw fuel onto the sensors, both sides. Raw fuel like that will ruin the o2. Replace the pass. side, that is the right side. If you want to check for a vacuum leak, you can spray carb cleaner near the vacuum lines or manifold at idle. If the rpm increases then you've found the leak. It's an old trick but it does work. ALSO change your engine oil. If it's been as rich as you've stated then it's likely that raw fuel has washed past the rings and gotten into the oil, thinning it out. I had o2 go bad from raw fuel dumping on them when my car was in "limp" mode from a bad opti. BTW there really isn't a limp mode, it's just a really poor running engine. I don't have my manual by me, but I think that if you lightly tap on the side of a MAF sensor and the engine rpm changes then it indicates a bad sensor sometimes. Look that one up in the Haynes manual though. Good Luck!
I second this!!!
95loveaffair
Member
Registered: Mar 2002
Location: Clio,MI. USA
Posts: 122
Just now been reading the posts. I think you're o2 on the passenger side is bad. Here's why. When your other one shorted, you had an overly rich condition effect the entire engine. This dumped raw fuel onto the sensors, both sides. Raw fuel like that will ruin the o2. Replace the pass. side, that is the right side. If you want to check for a vacuum leak, you can spray carb cleaner near the vacuum lines or manifold at idle. If the rpm increases then you've found the leak. It's an old trick but it does work. ALSO change your engine oil. If it's been as rich as you've stated then it's likely that raw fuel has washed past the rings and gotten into the oil, thinning it out. I had o2 go bad from raw fuel dumping on them when my car was in "limp" mode from a bad opti. BTW there really isn't a limp mode, it's just a really poor running engine. I don't have my manual by me, but I think that if you lightly tap on the side of a MAF sensor and the engine rpm changes then it indicates a bad sensor sometimes. Look that one up in the Haynes manual though. Good Luck!
I second this!!!
#40
Well I have now replaced both O2s and the problem is still there Then I tried running with the MAF unplugged, and it ran ok for a couple seconds, then back to the same problems. I have no idea what to check now.
#42
Chris, to track down things it's going to be very helpful seeing what info the sensor is giving the PCM while driving. I know we talked and all the scan tools are $ and all. But if it is still giving a bad primary O2 on that bank, then you need to follow the factory service manual diagnostic instructions and figure out why. Alternately, sometimes Autozone has printouts they can do from the register with diagnosis steps. The trouble at this point is that you're getting a check engine light and code but you're not seeing what the engine is getting from the sensor. Sometimes it's very helpful to see that it's giving, instead of just "low signal."
#43
Actually I didnt get the codes read after I replaced the O2 today.... Ill go do that tomorrow... Someone told me that what it is doing is typical of having a big cam such as CC306 does, that it will hang around 2000 rpm or so for several seconds before settling back down, although I dont think it should be doing that, but someone mentioned it was part of the "bad manners" of the CC306. But I dont see why it runs so rich when that happens Which makes me think it shouldnt be doing that. Ill get the codes checked again tomorrow, hopefully get some more info. Anyone got any advice? Thanks yall.
#45
Originally posted by 94FlamdS10Blazr
did you ever do what I said about grounding the black wire on the MAF? I think that would help you to eliminate a bad ground in the sensor path due to you shorting out the wires
did you ever do what I said about grounding the black wire on the MAF? I think that would help you to eliminate a bad ground in the sensor path due to you shorting out the wires