coolraptor

Sorry forgot to answer some of the questions:

I do not know what the vacum was like when it was on the dyno, i wasnt watching the screen.

Iam using a stock type timing chain also with a stock style waterpump fyi.

speed_demon24

I'm on the stock bottom end with an unported intake and made the #'s in my sig. I say there is definaly something wrong with it, and it's not the unported intake holding you back.

Gripenfelter

The K&N Cold Air Intake is restrictive? Thats a new one. I had a Callaway CAI (Moroso) on my old 383 LT1 and it gave me more than enough air for my motor to produce 422 rwhp. My intake manifold was the restriction.

Looking at your latest dyno I would say there is still power left on the table. Might want to get a second opinion from a tuner.

coolraptor

Alright ill do some more research on it.
Any idea what might be the reason for the 'low' numbers??

flyinZ

Any update on this setup?

95z28man

I'm quite suprised at those numbers... they seem very low for an AI setup, something must still be going on. I made the numbers in my sig with a very similar setup and some mediocre ported stock heads/intake. Hopefully you get it figured it out, it would be a shame to spend all that money and not get the most out of it you can.

coolraptor

wow sorry guys, i didnt know anyone was reading this post.

Basicaly, it was 'blown up' whenever we tried the tuning. Infact, its been in trouble since day one. I cant remember if i made another post detailing what we found out but incase i didnt, here is what i can remember.

FYI....I didnt assemble this motor i simply got everything together. I didnt trust myself putting something this costly together so i had a guy who supposedly built various types of race engines do it.

We tore it apart and found some how it looks like the wrist pins wiggled out, not enough to lock it up, but enough to oval shape the holes in all the pistons(wtf?) and make the cylinders have flat grooves on either side where the pins were. There was my blowby issue.

The pushrods were waaaay long. The guideplates are actually tore up from them rubbing where it looks like they were at an angle and rubbing on the head/guideplate since they were simply too long. They were barely touching the roller trocker tips, meaning they were on a far side of the roller.

Every bearing in the engine is completly ate out. Its very obvious there was ALOT of dirt on them during assembly. Looks like they werent so much as wiped off, deep grooves and whatnot. The crank is scratched up some but so far the machine shop says they can make it right.

And yet again, a few bolts on the pressure plate were hanging in by a few threads, which explained the clicking during startup.
All but 2 bell housing bolts were missing this time, and they werent even finger tight. Gonna have to figre out something with these bellhousing bolts. (bolts from bellhousing to block fyi)

I cant remember what else is wrong but there is a whole page worth of stuff typed out on a computer with all the details. Pretty ugly


So basicaly where iam at right now is waiting on the block from the machine shop. Iam going with a splayed 4bolt setup with billet caps now to strengthen the bottom end a bit more. No word on what else needs done, the block just got down there a few days ago.

Guy who is working on it is a professional engine builder. Checked this one out good and am confident in him so far

Just a question, dunno if anyone would care to answer or not but what plugs do ya'll run for a wetshot of nitrous (one fifty shot) on a setup like mine?

Thanks guys and ill keep ya updated if i know people are interested.
I was just gonna post back whenever its running again orignally ha.

user 647483

Thanks for the update, it sounds like you've been through a lot.
It's too bad so many components were damaged over the builder's lack of attention to detail.
It does sound like a great opportunity to make some changes and build the new motor even better
I went though a similar ordeal with my last project.

As long as you're rebuilding from scratch, be sure to use good rod bolts. (not sure what you used before)
They're a big part of being able to handle both RPM and power.
Depending on how much power you plan on making, you might also consider half-filling the block.

Looking forward to reading about your progress, it should be a blast to drive.

SS MPSTR

Holy crap! Who assembled that engine - Bazooka Joe? I think my 13 year old nephew could have done a better job - at least if he didn't know something, he'd look it up rather than just guessing & throwing it together. Sorry for your frustrations and trouble. Attention to detail is absolutely key, along with knowledge and cleanliness. Good luck with the new build - I've been down this road before too, and it does suck.

Savannah Dan

Major bummer. Are you going to try to get some money out of your so called 'builder' when he gets out of rehab?

flyinZ

That sux to hear about your misfortune.

I think you'd be fine with something like an NGK TR-6 plug.

coolraptor

I had arp rod bolts before, and will probably go that route this time as well.

Iam not planning on trying to make anymore power than whatever a HEALTHY AI/Trickflow headed 383lt1 on nitrous w/ a hyd roller cam would normally make. After this motor is up and running and all is good iam focusing on the rest of the car.
Perhaps after the rear end and tranny are bullet proof, i may go a little crazier on the motor once my wallet recovers.

The trans is Stock except for new synchros so it will probably go out before long at the power levels that will be going thru it, especially on the nitrous, so iam going to save the $$ for that.
I came accross a 9inch for a little over fifty bucks that i couldnt pass up. So, whenever i get the car in my garage me and a friend (who builds dirt car chassis off and on) are going to fab it up to work on my camaro. The 10bolt with 4:10's is/was living on borrowed time.
I actually managed to break a 10bolt on my old bone stock 94 auto with 3:42 gears when i was younger. Of course several college age folks owned the car before me so iam sure it had a rough life.


Iam not going to try to get any money out of the original guy that put it together.
I agreed that it had a sidewalk warrenty. Being, after it drove across the sidewalk and onto the road its my problem.
Ive run into him a few times recently and hes heard of the issues ive had. Not very talkative to say the least hehe.
The guy who assembled it is a friend i used to work with....at a GARAGE

Thanks for the recommandation on the ngk's. I was pretty sure that is what i needed after reading post after post about 'which plugs for nitrous' but i wanted to be sure.

Thanks for the comments guys. ill keep you all posted as long as you keep checking this then