Thoughts on this stroker build
#1
Thoughts on this stroker build
I have been kicking around the idea of stroking my LT1 and after putting on my new heads and cam, I have the itch to do even more.
No plan for boost, but I would not be shocked to find myself wanting to maybe throw a supercharger or nitrous kit on if the stroker doesn't completely satisfy my desire for more power.
Heres whats in my summit shopping cart:
3.750 eagle forged crank
DSS 4.030 forged pistons (+5 cc)
Forged SCAT H beam rods
I plan on zero decking the block and running a .026" gasket. The LE trickflows I have are 62cc - compression = 11.8:1
Car already has mods listed in my sig. I'd run with a new damper as well.
Thoughts on this setup?
No plan for boost, but I would not be shocked to find myself wanting to maybe throw a supercharger or nitrous kit on if the stroker doesn't completely satisfy my desire for more power.
Heres whats in my summit shopping cart:
3.750 eagle forged crank
DSS 4.030 forged pistons (+5 cc)
Forged SCAT H beam rods
I plan on zero decking the block and running a .026" gasket. The LE trickflows I have are 62cc - compression = 11.8:1
Car already has mods listed in my sig. I'd run with a new damper as well.
Thoughts on this setup?
#2
Re: Thoughts on this stroker build
decide what power adder you "will" go with so you build the right compression motor now
Forged Eagle is bottom line...might want to step up on the crank. The Scat forged stuff is "OK"...Callies is top shelf
Forged Eagle is bottom line...might want to step up on the crank. The Scat forged stuff is "OK"...Callies is top shelf
#3
Re: Thoughts on this stroker build
#5
Re: Thoughts on this stroker build
If you eventually go for the forced induction setup, the compression ratio is too high. You want to get it down in the 9's.
11.8 is OK for nitrous. With nitrous, depending on how extreme, you may want a piston designed for the power adder. Typically you want the ring pack dropped down on the piston to keep it out of the intense heat. That can make rod selection more important. You wouldn't want a 6" rod. I've got custom BME nitrous pistons, and with the 3.75" stroke and 5.85" rods, the oil ring is over the wrist pin bore, and requires ring rails for support. The crown is thicker than normal, includes upper oilers, Swain moly skirt coating, etc. But that's for a 300-shot.
Boost Vs. Juice: Designing A Piston For Nitrous Oxide
11.8 is OK for nitrous. With nitrous, depending on how extreme, you may want a piston designed for the power adder. Typically you want the ring pack dropped down on the piston to keep it out of the intense heat. That can make rod selection more important. You wouldn't want a 6" rod. I've got custom BME nitrous pistons, and with the 3.75" stroke and 5.85" rods, the oil ring is over the wrist pin bore, and requires ring rails for support. The crown is thicker than normal, includes upper oilers, Swain moly skirt coating, etc. But that's for a 300-shot.
Boost Vs. Juice: Designing A Piston For Nitrous Oxide
#6
Re: Thoughts on this stroker build
You're getting some great advice from both Injuneer and Chimera96 here!
You really DO need to think through your plans for any future "power adder" as you plan/build this motor. If you build the 11.8:1 383 NA motor, you can drive it first NA and see if that HP level is enough, knowing you can add nitrous later for more HP. (Nitrous loves compression!) If you build an 8.5:1 or 9.0:1 motor for boost ..... it won't run well NA. You'll need to add boost ASAP to make any real power with it. So building for nitrous, allows you to drive your stroker motor NA first, and then decide whether or not to add spray.
I've just finished building a 396 LT1 fully forged stroker at 12.6:1 for my car, and am still trying to "dial in" a good pump gas tune for it, but ...... it a MAJOR step up from my 350 heads & cam motor HP wise!
You really DO need to think through your plans for any future "power adder" as you plan/build this motor. If you build the 11.8:1 383 NA motor, you can drive it first NA and see if that HP level is enough, knowing you can add nitrous later for more HP. (Nitrous loves compression!) If you build an 8.5:1 or 9.0:1 motor for boost ..... it won't run well NA. You'll need to add boost ASAP to make any real power with it. So building for nitrous, allows you to drive your stroker motor NA first, and then decide whether or not to add spray.
I've just finished building a 396 LT1 fully forged stroker at 12.6:1 for my car, and am still trying to "dial in" a good pump gas tune for it, but ...... it a MAJOR step up from my 350 heads & cam motor HP wise!
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12-21-2006 05:08 PM