Throttle Body Bypass for '94 Z28
#16
on the 94 you take the pipe on both sides off and put them together w/ the 3/8" brass connecter and 2 new hose clamps (dont reuse the old ones)
mine was a PITA because the passenger side clamp was stuck against the block (couldnt pinch the two parts, block in the way)
so I just mangled it with screwdrivers
good luck
mine was a PITA because the passenger side clamp was stuck against the block (couldnt pinch the two parts, block in the way)
so I just mangled it with screwdrivers
good luck
#17
Originally posted by Mtrhds94Z
What's '94-95ish' it's either one[94 needs the connector] or the other [95 doesnt need the connector]
Unless it's like mine and is a 94 with 95 hose configuration..
What's '94-95ish' it's either one[94 needs the connector] or the other [95 doesnt need the connector]
Unless it's like mine and is a 94 with 95 hose configuration..
#18
Success.
It took me about half an hour, but i full on removed my air intake system (on the top) and the throttle body so it was easy to get to. It wouldn't have been possible for me to do it without removing the throttle body because i wasn't going to mess with the alternator at all. So i unplugged a total of 4 sensors, 2 on the intake and 2 on the throttle body, only knowing what one of them was (MAF) and then just felt around and unplugged the 2 hoses on the top of the TB (the one that goes into the valve cover and the other one right behind it) and then disconnected the throttle cable (that was fun figuring out, spent 10 minutes on that alone) and then pulled it right out of there.
I used a 1" brass 3/8" barb to connect the 2 hoses and used 3/8" caps to plug the holes on the TB. I used 5/8" clamps to hold the hoses together. While the TB was out i looked at it and it was damn near spotless, no carbon deposits, nothing. I also looked into whatever i was looking into where the TB connects and everything looked pretty clean in there too. I put everything back together the way it was and quadruple checked every screw and sensor, and everything was right.
Started it up and it started up first try no problems and most importantly, no SES light. However, temp did raise to 210 (i have 160 thermo + manual fans) but i figured it was because of all the air that got let into the system, so i just bled the screw after i shut it off at 210 and it hissed for a few seconds and then i started my car again and it got to about 190 and then slowly dropped to 175-180 and i tightened the bleeder screw.
So then i let it idle for about 15 minutes to see if it would do anything funny and it didn't, and then i went for a 40 mile test drive on some curvy roads, and i could tell a very slight increase of power, mainly because it was acting like it was cold even though it was at temp. Definately an improvement.
I reccomend the Throttle Body Bypass to any who haven't done it yet, and believe me, if i can do it, anyone can.
It took me about half an hour, but i full on removed my air intake system (on the top) and the throttle body so it was easy to get to. It wouldn't have been possible for me to do it without removing the throttle body because i wasn't going to mess with the alternator at all. So i unplugged a total of 4 sensors, 2 on the intake and 2 on the throttle body, only knowing what one of them was (MAF) and then just felt around and unplugged the 2 hoses on the top of the TB (the one that goes into the valve cover and the other one right behind it) and then disconnected the throttle cable (that was fun figuring out, spent 10 minutes on that alone) and then pulled it right out of there.
I used a 1" brass 3/8" barb to connect the 2 hoses and used 3/8" caps to plug the holes on the TB. I used 5/8" clamps to hold the hoses together. While the TB was out i looked at it and it was damn near spotless, no carbon deposits, nothing. I also looked into whatever i was looking into where the TB connects and everything looked pretty clean in there too. I put everything back together the way it was and quadruple checked every screw and sensor, and everything was right.
Started it up and it started up first try no problems and most importantly, no SES light. However, temp did raise to 210 (i have 160 thermo + manual fans) but i figured it was because of all the air that got let into the system, so i just bled the screw after i shut it off at 210 and it hissed for a few seconds and then i started my car again and it got to about 190 and then slowly dropped to 175-180 and i tightened the bleeder screw.
So then i let it idle for about 15 minutes to see if it would do anything funny and it didn't, and then i went for a 40 mile test drive on some curvy roads, and i could tell a very slight increase of power, mainly because it was acting like it was cold even though it was at temp. Definately an improvement.
I reccomend the Throttle Body Bypass to any who haven't done it yet, and believe me, if i can do it, anyone can.
#21
Originally posted by Heatmaker
She's a 95...that was built in 94
She's a 95...that was built in 94
It has vented opti, and didn't need the hose barb for bypass right?[94 has unvented opti and needs the connector]
#22
Originally posted by Mtrhds94Z
Then it's a 95.. [why confuse everyone..]
It has vented opti, and didn't need the hose barb for bypass right?[94 has unvented opti and needs the connector]
Then it's a 95.. [why confuse everyone..]
It has vented opti, and didn't need the hose barb for bypass right?[94 has unvented opti and needs the connector]
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