ShowStopper540

you dont need to be wealthy as shyt to drive a nice 383, heres what i've been checking out, maybe it can help you as well...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT

accompanied by a modified intake and exhaust system i think this would be a bitchin little motor good luck!

Jlo

Sounds good but it ain't forged, and most of us wanna spray it or at least I do. I've been looking at the eagle forged crank the 3.50 stroke with a .030 bore it's displacement is 357ci, has anyone built one of these.

ShowStopper540

he wants a nice street ride, i dont like "cheater spray" (no offense to anyone who likes NOS) when im on the street i like the feeling of a RAW POWERED N/A small block! thats just me, plus this would be an inexpensive way to get what he wants

Jlo

I 100% agree

grammerman

Don't listen to all these jokers telling you that a 350 is the better choice for a daily driver, the numbers don't add up. I've upgraded two previous engines to 383's and am working on my third, they are more fun and more powerful in most applications. With the head/cam package you're considering the 383 is going to make more torque and horserpower at every RPM point compared to the 350 and should have improved driveability as a bonus. Your budget would be a little deeper compared to reusing the stock crank, I just bought a scat 9000 cast steel 383 crank for $230 delivered ( which is plenty strong for your power level) and if you don't want to clearance the block yourself figure between $125-$200 for a shop to do it. The torque increase if you're using it as a daily driver is a pretty good value for the extra money and will increase the fun factor a good bit. You certainly don't need monster 300 CFM heads, they would be a mismatch at your target of 400 rwhp and would cost you some midrange and lowend power and throttle response.

ChrisUlrich

I didn't really read everyone post (sorry). But I did see Nick @ Victory posted. Go with him dude... give him a budget and see what can be done. Nick is the man dude... him and Eric have my trust 100%!

1racerdude

BS
If ya want to give advice do it correctly.
A set of heads that flow 300CFM will make about 620FWHP on a max effort motor.
Now take off 10-12% for the wonderful LT1 intake and ya got 270CFM@555FWHP with nothing taken off for any other mistakes. Take off any other restriction too like small TB and less than adequate CAI and mistakes made buying a cam.
Put it on a dyno with an automatic and ya got 455RWHP and very much in the range he wanted.
Ya can take it NOT being a max effort off too and the figure goes down. Like from low compression small valves,small cam,no gear to name some.

Just get the biggest set of heads ya can afford and build the engine around them.300+CFM is doable in stock castings but cost more than a good set.

grammerman

Sounds suspiciously like a parrot. Dude gave me the exact same line a few days ago in reference to a 350 rwhp 383 torque build I was posting about. I'll bet you could easily find fifty other posts on different combinations all with the advice to go with 300 cfm ports. Is a set of 300 CFM heads going to be the best choice on both a 350 horse torque motor and a 400 horse motor? What about a 350 HP motor vs. a 500 plus rwhp max effort motor he mentioned using them on? Not hardly, not in this galaxy anyway. Going with the biggest port job you can for any and all situations at the expense of area under the curve, torque, fuel economy, driveability and throttle response is not an intelligent approach.
Polly want a cracker?

Nothing personal, just pulling your chain a little. Not everybody is trying to build a racetrack oriented motor. Just my opinion.

sam pace

Mr. Blurr,
Take some of what Racerdude and some of what Grammerman has to say.
They both have good points. BUT you want a smooth runner so grammer is right be a little conservative on the cam.
Don't do a large cam it will not be what you are looking for.
Now as for the heads there IS such thing as TOO MUCH FLOW for a street driven motor.
If you go too large you will loose low end power because of lack of port velocity for low end power.
Racerdude likes to build high rpm screaming eagles. Grammerman likes low end grunt monsters.
Either one should be good but a 383 will have more torque hands down. Like the old saying goes, there is no replacement for displacement
Go between the 2 and you will be very happy
No offence guys, but you two are at the extreme ends of the building spectrum.
QUITE THE PISSING MATCHES!!! nobody benifits from this.

1racerdude

Define "area under the curve" for me.
Ya talk a good game now put up by posting ANY info that says I am wrong,please.
After looking at your port work I have no doughts ya tried that with one hand behind your back




If that's the kind of work ya do,I wouldn't let ya work on my lawnmower with all your ideas.

1racerdude

Ya cant put too much head on a SBC with the present castings.That is a proven fact.
I also am not saying large cam but 240*@50 duration isn't large, 280*@50 is.

The cam has to match the heads,thats all there is to it.

sam pace

He is not done yet.
If you have never done head porting before, and are not very handy, spend the buck and have them done by a professional. It will be worth it for you in the end. I see you are in Texas, the f-body capital of the US. there are alot of good machine shops out there. There are a few vendors on this sight.
One of them is Lloyd Elliot check him out he will get you down the right path.
Good luck.
BTW
You are correct Racer. A matched motor is always better than a bunch of things slapped on.
To me 240 is a tad high for my taste. Each person has there own version of what drivable is.

1racerdude

Victory Racing

Couldn't agree more Sam. People need to stick with what they are good at.I'm not a head porter or a trans guy, but I recognize that and focus on engines since that is where I personally excel.

I see this a lot in the industry. People that are pro's in one skill flexing over into other facets of the business. Just no good to me. Now of course I am talking of doing this to sell a part as a pro. If you want to hog out a set of your own heads for the hell of it, then run wild. Its only your junk your wrecking.

Joe B

What is it with certain "inexperienced" people thinking that good flowing 300 CFM(or so) heads "have" to give up ANYTHING under the curve, or on the Low end of the RPM scale..Get it thru your heads(no pun intended),"THEY DONT HAVE TO".. so get with the current times, this is not the 1960's... The huge "lack of lowend power" tradeoff that used to take place with swapping on a set of "High flowing" heads is NO longer the case(if done right)......there are several good sets of heads out there (aftermarket and "Well done" ported factory castings) with flow (Near or Over)300CFM with GREAT low lift flow numbers just like the smaller runner volume heads have.......ofcourse you don't NEED 300CFM flowing heads, but if the low and mid lift flow is there with them, then "Why Not"? (aside from the money issue)... this is some of what technology and experience in that field has given over the years..........and Grammerman, it's real hard for anyone to take advice from a guy that "just the other day" was asking a newbie question about if larger valves would be worth it for a 383, and then when people try to help and have different opinions, you then come across like your some engine god, when in fact, your posts reflect that you understand VERY little about anything that relates to fuel injected LT1 performance......and to anyone who thinks im comming down on this guy too hard, Just take a look at his first post on "this" thread, when he immediately opens up calling people "jokers" who have previously given their opinions(someone need attention LOL)..... look up TACT in the dictionary buddy....