Timing chain options for LT1 while KEEPING mechanical WP
02-13-2008, 06:14 PM
#17
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There's nothing wrong with that as long as you dont have worn out sprockets.
And Molly, you should take a good look at your cam bearings before you put that huge cam in there cause you're going to have to spin that pretty fast to use it and if those bearings are worn out, and they probably are after 130k or whatever, you might be setting yourself up for a cam bearing failure. Besides, your heads need more porting to breath all that well at those higher rpms. It'll make more power, but it's a mismatch for what you have unless you've done some work on it since I put it together.
And Molly, you should take a good look at your cam bearings before you put that huge cam in there cause you're going to have to spin that pretty fast to use it and if those bearings are worn out, and they probably are after 130k or whatever, you might be setting yourself up for a cam bearing failure. Besides, your heads need more porting to breath all that well at those higher rpms. It'll make more power, but it's a mismatch for what you have unless you've done some work on it since I put it together.
Last edited by Kevin Blown 95 TA; 02-13-2008 at 06:20 PM.
02-13-2008, 08:20 PM
#18
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There's nothing wrong with that as long as you dont have worn out sprockets.
And Molly, you should take a good look at your cam bearings before you put that huge cam in there cause you're going to have to spin that pretty fast to use it and if those bearings are worn out, and they probably are after 130k or whatever, you might be setting yourself up for a cam bearing failure. Besides, your heads need more porting to breath all that well at those higher rpms. It'll make more power, but it's a mismatch for what you have unless you've done some work on it since I put it together.
And Molly, you should take a good look at your cam bearings before you put that huge cam in there cause you're going to have to spin that pretty fast to use it and if those bearings are worn out, and they probably are after 130k or whatever, you might be setting yourself up for a cam bearing failure. Besides, your heads need more porting to breath all that well at those higher rpms. It'll make more power, but it's a mismatch for what you have unless you've done some work on it since I put it together.
02-13-2008, 08:41 PM
#21
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02-13-2008, 09:00 PM
#22
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well if you check the prices you might as well buy a electric water pump and get a regular timing set at least if you were to put a cam in sometime you can get a timing set that is adjustable for under $60 bucks and an electric water pump for $180 that's still cheaper than the lt4 HD.. that just makes more since to me ... and gain power...
02-13-2008, 09:02 PM
#23
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There have been a few guys who swapped back to stock bases after trying it.
"supposed" to be good and truely good are two different things, most folks can not seperate marketting from reality.
The stock base on my car has over 85K miles on it, much of that moddified. Had the current setup with the MSD cap and rotor for 2 years 16K miles, before that I had a mild cam only setup.
If you hit GLD or WIR this spring I am sure we will run into eachother and can compare notes, wife is taking an interest too so I should be at the track a LOT.
"supposed" to be good and truely good are two different things, most folks can not seperate marketting from reality.
The stock base on my car has over 85K miles on it, much of that moddified. Had the current setup with the MSD cap and rotor for 2 years 16K miles, before that I had a mild cam only setup.
If you hit GLD or WIR this spring I am sure we will run into eachother and can compare notes, wife is taking an interest too so I should be at the track a LOT.
02-13-2008, 09:03 PM
#24
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well if you check the prices you might as well buy a electric water pump and get a regular timing set at least if you were to put a cam in sometime you can get a timing set that is adjustable for under $60 bucks and an electric water pump for $180 that's still cheaper than the lt4 HD.. that just makes more since to me ... and gain power...
02-14-2008, 08:28 AM
#25
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Well either way I'm looking at a new opti, and even with a good price on a Delco opti, plus an MSD cap and rotor, that's more than a full MSD opti costs.. so I might as well go with the MSD. I know of a couple of guys in the area who had a couple Delco optis fail on them and they have put in MSD units and have been trouble-free since...
Yeah I'm sure we'll run into each other there. If your wife is taking an interest in racing, you should bring her there on Ladies' Nite. Totally free racing for the girls FTW!
Yeah I'm sure we'll run into each other there. If your wife is taking an interest in racing, you should bring her there on Ladies' Nite. Totally free racing for the girls FTW!
Last edited by Rising Phoenix; 02-14-2008 at 09:00 AM.
02-14-2008, 08:05 PM
#26
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Guys are having the optical units fail in the MSDs. Some of the guys don't say much about it online for two reasons. One they don't want to admit it after they went and claimed it was great for the first month and second they don't want to bother arguing with people who blindly believe in aftermarket stuff.
I should maybe add I have put over 180K miles on my L99/LT1s, I have a little experiance to go off of here.
What cam are you looking at?
I should maybe add I have put over 180K miles on my L99/LT1s, I have a little experiance to go off of here.
What cam are you looking at?
02-14-2008, 10:11 PM
#27
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I decided on a GM847 cam. And don't try to talk me out of it! 
I think it will be a good cam for my combo. In my other thread, there was a guy in there putting down over 350rwhp with it on stock heads (and mine are lightly ported)
I think it will be a good cam for my combo. In my other thread, there was a guy in there putting down over 350rwhp with it on stock heads (and mine are lightly ported)
02-15-2008, 11:05 AM
#28
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peak rwhp numbers don't tell the whole story, you will learn that this spring though I guess.
I have seen what happens when people put cams that size in M6 350s even with 4.10s. The car does NOT perform that well and the drivability suffers and they might enjoy it for a little while but it gets old and they get tired of being beaten by "lesser" setups.
I have seen what happens when people put cams that size in M6 350s even with 4.10s. The car does NOT perform that well and the drivability suffers and they might enjoy it for a little while but it gets old and they get tired of being beaten by "lesser" setups.
02-15-2008, 12:18 PM
#30
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You're going down a road we've already been down. It's the most common mistake people make when modding a street driven car.
It will make a bunch of power if you like to rev it, but not as much as it is meant to make because of the heads, and it will suck on the street and lose power down low because your dynamic compression will be less than what you have now, but will sound cool as it shakes the fenders off at idle. And you don't care about mileage anyway, so that's a good thing. It will be inefficient at any normal driving/cruising rpm.
However, you do have a good gear for it and you have a 6 speed, which eases the high idle pain a bit. You also have a bit more than stock compression which will help and you will enjoy it more when you run it ***** out assuming the rest of it holds together (rod bearings and bolts) , but that's about it.
It will make a bunch of power if you like to rev it, but not as much as it is meant to make because of the heads, and it will suck on the street and lose power down low because your dynamic compression will be less than what you have now, but will sound cool as it shakes the fenders off at idle. And you don't care about mileage anyway, so that's a good thing. It will be inefficient at any normal driving/cruising rpm.
However, you do have a good gear for it and you have a 6 speed, which eases the high idle pain a bit. You also have a bit more than stock compression which will help and you will enjoy it more when you run it ***** out assuming the rest of it holds together (rod bearings and bolts) , but that's about it.