SiDeWaYZz28

yea im on a mission on finding info on this im bout to yank my engine too

1racerdude

Our shop car has been laying there for two years. Would have hated to see the bill if it had been open all this time.
It's fixing to get used though.

94Camaro_Z_28

I just finished take mine out the bottom....not to tough, and imo, a lot easier than out the top. It all in the end depends on what tools you have access to.

jkipp84

I just took my shortblock out from the top and it wasn't too bad. Bottom might have been better, but from the top is no biggie. I'm not on any particular time frame though.

I can see how leaving the tranny on would've helped though. I've been thinking about taking the trans out and putting them back in together for the reinstall..

dochall22

I think I'm going to break the motor down as much as possible before I take out the short block, and I"m going to pull motor and tranny. I have a question for you guys though. Will it hurt if i pull the car out of the garage and let it set in the weather over the winter months with no motor in it? Didnt know if any of the sensors would be bothered, this might be a stupid question. but the hood would be on and closed, so i dunno. just thought i'd throw that out there.

I'm going to have someon else put it back in, is that a bad idea? to pull it myself and have it installed by a shop or something? i just figured if i pulled it my self i could save a buck or something and get my hands dirty for free. thanks

12SCNDZ

I'm confused. Why would leaving the transmission on mke it easier?

Frank

Quickshotkimber

It took me under an hour to disconnect all hoses, drain fluids, remove headers, and lift the motor and trannt out from the top with the happy hooker in my driveway. It was a first for me.

FastZinTennessee

I removed the motor/trans out the top of the car- no happy hooker, just a chain. The motor was broken down to the shortblock, no intake or heads, just the block and oil pan. It was a pretty big pain in the *** I'd have to say. First of all I hated seeing my motor and trans tilted at the angle, I was using a load leveler and had to keep making minor changes to get the angle right. You have to be real careful because there isn't much clearance between the cowl and motor at all times of the removal. It was a tight squeeze but I lift the hood on, and the top of the engine hoist just barely cleared an 8 ft. ceiling in the garage.

When I install the motor I'll be putting it in from the bottom because I think it will be easier. I like the idea of being able to bolt the motor on the subframe, bolt the headers, accessories, etc. on. I'm not exactly a midget, so any work in small spaces that I can avoid is a plus, which is why I think an install from the bottom will be the best for me.

Some good sources I've found-

http://ken.lowrance.com/Projects/Hea...ineRemoval.htm

http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...engine+removal

jkipp84

Makes sense to me. Also, it's kind of a PITA putting those bell housing bolts in with 3' of extension. I've done it, and it's not the end of the world, most difficult thing I've ever done, or anything like that. It's just annoying.

Maybe it won't be the Holy Grail of engine removal techniques for a 4th gen, but I'm always up for trying things that seem to have worked for others.

12SCNDZ

Oh wait...LOL. Did I mention I own a transmission shop? It takes us about 20 minutes to pull a trans out of an LT1 F-Body. i thought there was some other reason for leaving the transmission attatched. Shouldn't you be able to use an engine tilt instead of leaving the transmission bolted?

Frank

jkipp84

Frank, I know - CPT. I plan on sending you my A4 when I get it out of there.

I did use the tilt and it came out ok, no problems that were not my own fault. It was just the short block at the time though. All I had to do was detach the mounts and the bellhousing (and "if I only had a brain.." the converter. forgot all about that little tidbit).

Thanks to my... 'persuading' it, the short block and converter came out, but I believe it trashed the front seal on the trans. The dripping noise wasn't just a little coolant from the block dripping down. That'd be some pristine looking ATF. Dumbass award! Thank you, thank you very much!

So, since the trans now has to come out, I think on the reinstall it's going back in all together, I'll go ahead and give that idea a shot.

jakesnake123957

Like they say ,out the top is the only way without a car lift and I dont have one!

dochall22

I dont have a happy hooker, but we have a pretty cool rig in our garage that will do the trick. I just cant decide if I want to pull it myself, or just send it somewhere and let it all be done. I have a guy who quoted me a great price for a re-build, him pulling it and re-installing it all. putting in good parts, re-building the tranny, and tuning for less than 5500.

Check this deal out and see if it sounds good.

$3600 engine - rebuilding my motor with a 383 stroker kit
400 remove/install
170 stall tc
50 oil/coolant etc.
100 - pcm reprogram
250 - pistons - upgrading from the ones in the 3600-price
400 - heards/valves - better valves and more porting than the 3600price
150- starter
100 - tranny shift kit w/ install
total = $5220- so far

Honestly i havent found anything better than this. anyone else able to do this for a price like this?

jakesnake123957

That is a nice looking car man.

ZMAN Z28

I pulled mine out the bottom twice this summer in my driveway with a cherry picker and a tranny jack with the assist of a floor jack. I followed the directions on that michigan site. I have helped other take them out the top. I personally like breaking the tranny and motor down after it is out of the car.

ZMAN