Sergio

When i get back home i will start the rebuild on my LT1.
I have rebuild experience on German 4 cylinder engines but no actual SBC experience so far.

- What tips can you give me ?
- What is the best order to go about it ? (E.g. first manifols, head, etc)
- Where can i lift the engine, are there any lift points to hoist it ?
- What does the bare block weigh ? (i assume it cannot be lifted by hand just like my 4 cyl VW turbo block)
- I have an engine stand that allows an engine to be hold by inserting bolts into the engine (normally on the bellhousing side) and it allows you to work on it and even turn the engine up side down. This is also possible with the LT1 ??? (the bolt/arms are adjustable.)

For the record it's a Complete 94 LT1 engine with everything attached to it (including T56) sitting on a pallet. K-member and radiator are not presents, rest is attached (all accs, hoses, air, EGR, etc.

And i have ordered a LT1/LT4 rebuild book.

Thanks in advance,

Dave89IROC

intake/exhaust manifolds, accessory bracket on the front, then the heads

as for lift points, there are no lifting eyes, I pull the exhaust manifolds off and bolt the chain there

bare block weighs somewhere around 100# (45Kg) If you are fairly strong, you should be able to lift it, I can

yes, engine stands like that are used over here as well, attach it the the bellhousing bolt holes

GhostZ

If you're going to pull it out of the top, you can use a Happy Hooker along with the cherry picker.

If you want to go out of the bottom.... http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html

Dave89IROC

that is a good write-up though

Sergio

Thanks guys for the help !
I'll try to see if i can lift that bad boy by hand then

Btw, the engine is out of the car BUT i do need to drop that freaking 3.4 and use the guide ..... Taking it out through the top is not an option since it's not faster and i need to replace the K-member anyway.

Dave89IROC

yeah, out the bottom is the way to go, I can drop one out in an hour and a half on a hoist, probably 3-4 without a hoist(set-up time, more stuff to pull off, ect.)

Mystic97Z

if u have access to a lift,
( got one at my house, done it 2 times )
put car on ground, obviously disconnect all things connecting the engine to the engine bay, including the computer and wire harness from inside under the glove box, unbolt the subframe, (so sub frame/front wheels sitting on ground) then lift the car up. engine and tranny sitting on ground. takes me around 3 hours.

1-bad-z28

Like Dave89IROC said, the bare block is like 100 lbs. That means it has no crank, no pistons, rods, cam, or anything. You won't be able to get all that stuff out of it with it still bolted to the k-member. You will need a cherry picker for sure. The happy hooker is by far the best way to lift it.

Sergio

Yes that's what i'll most likely do ... Got a friend who has a bridge with a huge cilinder in the middle (ground based) that's connected to 2 rails on each side that support the chassis, so no wheel based lift.
This would be IDEAL for a drop.
I do however wonder about weight distribution since that complete front train will be out and i'm not sure about the balance then.
He also has acces to forklifts btw and i've seen people using those aswell.

Sergio

Well, as far as lifting goes.
The engine is in my garage right now, sitting complete on a wooden pallet.
Had to pull it in using 4 Army buddies as that combo is obviously very heavy.
Reason for asking is that i'm taking it all apart in the garage bit by bit.
Already lifted a T56 by hand and that wasn't that bad, so i'll disect it in pieces and in the end i want to lift the bare block to haul it to my beater car and to drop it off at the machine shop for decking, cleaning and honing.

So pulling it by hand means transporting a bare block from my garage to the back of my car, sorry about the confusion, i should have been more clear.