TPS voltage?
12-31-2009, 10:33 AM
#1
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TPS voltage?
so I am trying to figure out exactly whats wrong with my car...
SES light is on, and I was under the impression it was ERG related...
I tried turning off those codes, yet the SES light is still on, and I got a scanner and a logger, havent found one yet that does trouble codes, but none the less...
TPS voltage is at 0... i'm pressed the gas, and nothing changed. is this right?
SES light is on, and I was under the impression it was ERG related...
I tried turning off those codes, yet the SES light is still on, and I got a scanner and a logger, havent found one yet that does trouble codes, but none the less...
TPS voltage is at 0... i'm pressed the gas, and nothing changed. is this right?
12-31-2009, 10:45 AM
#2
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TPS voltage has to be between 0.20-0.90V at closed throttle. Anything outside that range will set a code. As you open the throttle, the voltage should increase smoothly with no dropouts or spikes, until it is about 4V higher at WOT than at closed throttle. Anything over 4.9V will set a code.
What scanners and software have you been using that don't pull the trouble codes?
What scanners and software have you been using that don't pull the trouble codes?
12-31-2009, 10:47 AM
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TPS voltage has to be between 0.20-0.90V at closed throttle. Anything outside that range will set a code. As you open the throttle, the voltage should increase smoothly with no dropouts or spikes, until it is about 4V higher at WOT than at closed throttle. Anything over 4.9V will set a code.
What scanners and software have you been using that don't pull the trouble codes?
What scanners and software have you been using that don't pull the trouble codes?
and than someone in another thread told me that doesnt do trouble codes, so I downloaded PCMComm
but that apparently only monitors certain specifics, and not trouble codes...
12-31-2009, 10:59 AM
#4
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Get FreeScan:
http://www.andywhittaker.com/
I'd recommend TTS DataMaster as well, but they have suspended downloads until they sort out the Windows 7 problems.
You can only read and clear DTC codes in pcmcomm with the purchased version, not with the free version.
http://www.andywhittaker.com/
I'd recommend TTS DataMaster as well, but they have suspended downloads until they sort out the Windows 7 problems.
You can only read and clear DTC codes in pcmcomm with the purchased version, not with the free version.
Last edited by Injuneer; 12-31-2009 at 11:02 AM.
12-31-2009, 11:02 AM
#5
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Get FreeScan:
http://www.andywhittaker.com/
I'd recommend TTS DataMaster as well, but they have suspended downloads until they sort out the Windows 7 problems.
http://www.andywhittaker.com/
I'd recommend TTS DataMaster as well, but they have suspended downloads until they sort out the Windows 7 problems.
a lot of the hyper links on Brents page are all no longer working.
12-31-2009, 11:23 AM
#7
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Its on the passenger side of the throttle body, concentric with the blade shaft. You know Shoebox has pictures:
http://shbox.com/1/tps.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/tps.jpg
12-31-2009, 11:54 AM
#9
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it seems fairly inexpensive, does this often fail? and should I suspect something else has failed, ie. wire harness or something?
looks like a couple of bolts and were back on the road with no problems at all?
looks like a couple of bolts and were back on the road with no problems at all?
12-31-2009, 12:30 PM
#10
with the reading at 0 i would be sure to check the wiring to make sure there are no problems there before just replacing the sensor. most times a sensor that is bad will give a voltage reading just not the correct one. but a break in the harness will give you the 0 you have. it could still be the sensor
also if you do end up replacing the sensor it would be a good time to correctly "adjust it" do a search for that
also if you do end up replacing the sensor it would be a good time to correctly "adjust it" do a search for that
12-31-2009, 12:36 PM
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Key on, uplug the harness connector. Check between the gray wire and the black wire in the harness for 5.0V.
With the harness connector off, check the resitance of the sensor between the pins where the gray and black wires connect. Then check the resistance between the pins where the blue wire and the black wire connect.
With the harness connector off, check the resitance of the sensor between the pins where the gray and black wires connect. Then check the resistance between the pins where the blue wire and the black wire connect.
12-31-2009, 12:49 PM
#12
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with the reading at 0 i would be sure to check the wiring to make sure there are no problems there before just replacing the sensor. most times a sensor that is bad will give a voltage reading just not the correct one. but a break in the harness will give you the 0 you have. it could still be the sensor
also if you do end up replacing the sensor it would be a good time to correctly "adjust it" do a search for that
also if you do end up replacing the sensor it would be a good time to correctly "adjust it" do a search for that
but there is already some electrical tape covering the wires... so i'm curious what that is about... probably another day, I'll go to the store and get a voltmeter, something that I should have anyway...
12-31-2009, 05:34 PM
#13
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thats what I'm thinking, I've never seen the wires routed as they are on this car, and I think they are touching both the valve covers (dont know if that gets hot enough to melt plastic?) and the alternator...
but there is already some electrical tape covering the wires... so i'm curious what that is about... probably another day, I'll go to the store and get a voltmeter, something that I should have anyway...
but there is already some electrical tape covering the wires... so i'm curious what that is about... probably another day, I'll go to the store and get a voltmeter, something that I should have anyway...
A digital volt meter is a great addition to your diagnostic tools and will come in handy over and over. Good move to buy one.
Once you get a 5v reading as Injuneer recommended you'll need to use the Blue wire to check for the correct TPS operation. That's done with the connector plugged in, ignition "ON", engine "OFF".
Keep us posted.
Jake
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01-03-2010, 05:39 AM
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so being as I'd never used a voltmeter before, at least personally, watched my dad plenty of times...
I used a AA battery to verify i was on the proper setting: AA battery read 1.590 volts (rated at 1.5)
checked between black and grey, got 0v sometimes the (-) symbol would show
checked between the black and the blue, i think it came back with .03v or something really small...
I did not bother to check resistance, 1.) because my voltmeter instructions are in German, 2.) I did not have the readings that injuneer said I should have for the wiring harness. To add to that, dangalla said usually when the TPS fail, they are inaccurate readings instead of zero. So a high probability suggests its the wire harness or the plug itself.
so... probably a foolish question, but where do i find a broken wire, seems like a needle in a hay stack quest...
where do I start?
I used a AA battery to verify i was on the proper setting: AA battery read 1.590 volts (rated at 1.5)
checked between black and grey, got 0v sometimes the (-) symbol would show
checked between the black and the blue, i think it came back with .03v or something really small...
I did not bother to check resistance, 1.) because my voltmeter instructions are in German, 2.) I did not have the readings that injuneer said I should have for the wiring harness. To add to that, dangalla said usually when the TPS fail, they are inaccurate readings instead of zero. So a high probability suggests its the wire harness or the plug itself.
so... probably a foolish question, but where do i find a broken wire, seems like a needle in a hay stack quest...
where do I start?
Last edited by NewbieWar; 01-03-2010 at 05:44 AM.
01-03-2010, 09:59 AM
#15
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so being as I'd never used a voltmeter before, at least personally, watched my dad plenty of times...
I used a AA battery to verify i was on the proper setting: AA battery read 1.590 volts (rated at 1.5)
checked between black and grey, got 0v sometimes the (-) symbol would show
checked between the black and the blue, i think it came back with .03v or something really small...
I did not bother to check resistance, 1.) because my voltmeter instructions are in German, 2.) I did not have the readings that injuneer said I should have for the wiring harness. To add to that, dangalla said usually when the TPS fail, they are inaccurate readings instead of zero. So a high probability suggests its the wire harness or the plug itself.
so... probably a foolish question, but where do i find a broken wire, seems like a needle in a hay stack quest...
where do I start?
I used a AA battery to verify i was on the proper setting: AA battery read 1.590 volts (rated at 1.5)
checked between black and grey, got 0v sometimes the (-) symbol would show
checked between the black and the blue, i think it came back with .03v or something really small...
I did not bother to check resistance, 1.) because my voltmeter instructions are in German, 2.) I did not have the readings that injuneer said I should have for the wiring harness. To add to that, dangalla said usually when the TPS fail, they are inaccurate readings instead of zero. So a high probability suggests its the wire harness or the plug itself.
so... probably a foolish question, but where do i find a broken wire, seems like a needle in a hay stack quest...
where do I start?
Jake
West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!! Graduation Day 20 May 2010!!!