Trouble Code 41 and bucking problems?
#31
I tried inducing the problem while I had the gauge connected. I ran the car for a total of hour and a half on separate occasions, running it around my property as well as putting the rear up on jack stands and putting it in gear and running it as various RPM ranges to try to get it to stumble. It would not.
To answer your question yes, I replaced it anyway. Do I feel foolish for replacing all these parts and still not fixing the problem, yes. I am here asking for help, to see if anyone has had this problem before, not to cause anyone brain damage.
I only replaced the fuel pump, like I said, out of pure desperation. I have been fighting this car for one month shy of a year. Just about every part was new from the start. Frustrating does not begin to explain the situation.
To answer your question yes, I replaced it anyway. Do I feel foolish for replacing all these parts and still not fixing the problem, yes. I am here asking for help, to see if anyone has had this problem before, not to cause anyone brain damage.
I only replaced the fuel pump, like I said, out of pure desperation. I have been fighting this car for one month shy of a year. Just about every part was new from the start. Frustrating does not begin to explain the situation.
#32
what might have to be done here is to procure an automotive diagnostic o-scope. such as a snap on vantage. you will want to start really checking all the wiring for proper signal (waveforms, not just continuity) and where the system is breaking down. start at the opti high and low and work towards the pcm the coil and the module, or work the signals from the coil and module to the pcm to the opti. code 41 is ignition. deeper diagnosis is required. but i didnt have to offer that. to be clear-when the car bucks and dies-you lose spark from the coil, correct? have you rigged a spark tester that you can eyeball and see?
#33
With the help of a datalogging session I found out the PCM was getting a reading from the coolant temperature sensor ranging from -36°F to 180°F. These readings would change in the matter of seconds. It would jump between open and closed loop many times. I replaced the sensor and now the car runs perfectly, noticeably better than before. The datalog shows a normal reading for the temperature now and hopefully this year long (almost to the day) ordeal of fighting this problem it over.
Thanks to everybody who helped out with suggestions and also AKM Cables for the datalogging cable. Now onto the next project, a LS1/4L60E in a 1969 Camaro.
Thanks to everybody who helped out with suggestions and also AKM Cables for the datalogging cable. Now onto the next project, a LS1/4L60E in a 1969 Camaro.
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