trying to get the clutch fork in
#1
trying to get the clutch fork in
i put a spec stage 3 clutch im my 94 z 6spd and i got everything done but i cant get the clutch fork to click in all the way, it feels like its in but it comes out easy if you pull on it...just wondering if anyone has any ideas how to get it in
#2
Re: trying to get the clutch fork in
I know it wasn't easy with mine. You have to get the input shaft started and slowly work it in as you tighten the 13mm(if I remember correctly) bolt. If it doesn't feel like it's on all the way it's most likely not. I hope this helps.
#3
Re: trying to get the clutch fork in
you should not have to tighten or loosen any bolts in the process....borg-warner specifically designed the t-56 to be "easy" to work w/. heres what you do. push in the fork like you had it (where it feels easy to come out if you pull on it) and push the fork end towards the motor...you should feel it prying backwards, then once its slightly pryed....just take a hammer or a pry bar or somethin and tap it inwards (towards the input shaft) and it will snap in....the whole reason for pushing in the fork is to release the pressure on the retainer that the fork is held w/. and there you have it it. hope it helps
-derik
-derik
#4
Re: trying to get the clutch fork in
Yes, I had the same problem with my clutch install. Your on the right track. Push it on like you already did, but once you think its all the way on, you need to pry or tap it on farther. It will "snap" or "pop" on once you get it. Hope this helps.
Aaron
Aaron
#5
Re: trying to get the clutch fork in
Don't hit it! It goes in easily if the collar is turned right. Look at this pic.
http://z28.reanimator.org/pics/spec_installed.jpg
See how the collar on the throwout bearing is SQUARE?
You're hitting it on the corner so it won't go all the way on.
Turn the collar somehow so the fork goes on all the way.
http://z28.reanimator.org/pics/spec_installed.jpg
See how the collar on the throwout bearing is SQUARE?
You're hitting it on the corner so it won't go all the way on.
Turn the collar somehow so the fork goes on all the way.
#6
Re: trying to get the clutch fork in
Mikey is correct..I always leave about 1/4" space between the tranny and bellhouseing when installing the tranny so I can see the TO bearing and verify its going on properly..I dont see how you guys take the bolt out and put it back in..Much easier just to push the Fork onto the Bearing but MAKE SURE YOU FEEL IT CLICK....I always put a small amount of grease on the Fork also so it slides better...
Cody
Cody
#7
Re: trying to get the clutch fork in
Notice that in the picture above, the throwout bearing has flat sides? The fork won't slide into place unless the flats are parallel with the fork axis. Try turning the bearing until the flats line up. I had to fight with this same problem until I realized what was happening. As soon as the bearing was lined up, it went in easily.
#8
Re: trying to get the clutch fork in
Originally Posted by 97 RedSS
Mikey is correct..I always leave about 1/4" space between the tranny and bellhouseing when installing the tranny so I can see the TO bearing and verify its going on properly..I dont see how you guys take the bolt out and put it back in..Much easier just to push the Fork onto the Bearing but MAKE SURE YOU FEEL IT CLICK....I always put a small amount of grease on the Fork also so it slides better...
Cody
Cody
We had this problem the first time we did it, and we ended up loosening the bolts , and seperating so that we could see.
I know you might not wan't to hear that, sense you seem to already have it bolted together , but so did we, and it took us only about 20 minutes or so to back the bolts off and seperate in less than an inch so we could see. Then again , some people take longer than others. My friend that helped just needed a swivel and a 6-10 inch extension to tighten the hard to reach bolt from the bottom instead of 3 feet and getting from the back of the crossmember like some, so some have different abilities, but at least we know to leave space now.
Anyways if you can't get it by rotating the bearing, seperating it should be alot easier.
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