Sweetred95ta

Upgrading to 4.10's with that kind of power would be bad. Save the money and put a 12 bolt or 9" in your car. You're looking at a hell of a project (a costly one at that) if you want to do 500 rwhp NA with a LTX motor. Solid roller would definitely be the way to go. And you do have to upgrade/change your valvetrain to run a solid roller setup.

MEAN LT1

Do a search man. I ve been were your going trying to go and as of right now it seems that converting some sbc heads for an LT1 is the way to go if your trying to get this on motor. Or like some have said, bolt up a s/c and be done with it. I was pondering a solid roller and frankly all the horror stories scared me out of it. Then there was the sb2.2 which I thought would be a cool idea but added up all the parts and would easily be in the $20,000 mark. So as of right now I think the best thing to do is have some sbc 18 degree heads ported By Larry Meux or Lloyd that flow 330+. This along with a nie stroker should get me or whome ever to the 500 mark on motor.

My Red 93Z-28

I read in Engine Masters Magazine that AFR has some new heads coming out, 23 deg. sbc heads called the eliminator, they have new port design and new chamber design. The competition 195cc flows 300 cfm @ .600 lift and the 210cc flows 310 cfm. I don't know what size you would need but it sounds like the 210cc would be your best bet as it is a little over your 300 cfm mark.

93redBirdMan

if the guy wants 500fwhp then the LE3+full bolt ons will get him will it not!? Isn't 420rwhp damn near 500 at the motor?? maybe 475 or so...

Injuneer

He never answered the question whether he was looking for 500 flywheel or 500 rear wheel.

ChazGotACAmaro

Sorry, I forgot to answer that. I'm looking for 500 RWHP although this is seeming to be harder to achieve than I had first expected. I may readjust my goals to 450-460 RWHP and spray it.

MEAN LT1

Welcome to the club, I know how you feel. (sigh)

NightTrain66

All of my cams are custom so you would not get the standard LEx cam that we would send someone else with milder goals. The LEx cam that you would get would be based on what the car needs and what will fit the requirements of the valve trane we are using. We can do a cam that will make that HP # for you "OR" we can do one that will make the car drive like you want/need it to with your weight, gear, stall, cubes, compression, etc, etc. These are sometimes 2 different cams and the writing below will explain that.

There are several ways to get there and really no guarantee you will not fall short by 10-50 HP depending on LOTS of variables but if the goal is actually 500 RWHP, I would recommend a recipe something like this . . . .

383 with 12.0-12.5 to 1 CR
hand ported AFR 227 or other head with offset intake rockers
Welded and ported LT4 intake (or TPIS intake or single plane intake)
Solid roller cam

AT LEAST a dbl 58 MM TB or even better a BIG SVO or LS1 style TB

Preferably 1 7/8 headers but AT LEAST 1 3/4 headers with 3" true duals and X pipe.

That is a basic run down and Elec WP, Dyno tune, etc, etc are OBVIOUSLY needed but atleast you have an idea about what the recipe would be. It is NOT cheep and once it is together, do you really wanna solid roller in this car? Spring changes, valve lash adjustments, drivability, etc, etc are all concerns.

What most end up doing is working the equation the other direction by saying, I have "this much" to spend on this thing and I have a car that weighs "this much", with "this" gear, "this stall" and I wanna drive it "this much" every year and I only wanna change springs and lash rockers "this" often and am willing to sacrifice "this much" drivabilty.

Lots of people can help you reach your goal with a recipe, you just need to pony up the $$$ and understand what the car will be like when it is done. I would say that ONLY 10 % of the people with this goal are even willing to make all the sacrifices that go along with a car with a set up this radical and a small fraction of have the budget to make it a reality.

Once you use common parts (58 MM TB, LTX intake, standard rocker location heads, hyd roller, 1 3/4 LT's) and use a cam with ramp speed mild enough to try and make these springs last on a street car for 15-40 K miles that will be pretty drivable and work with most street cars, you have to do EVERYTHING right (rocker adjustment, tuning, tuning, tuning and more GOOD tuning) to get to the 440 RWHP mark. More HP "can" be made with the separts but it is not common. Vacuum pumps, tuning, dry sumps, tuning, welded and custom fabbed parts, tuning and more tuning are all needed. Throw in a pissed off girlfreind/wife and a few holes in the wall from your fist while you get the bugs worked out and then you will "start" to understand why these results never come to life.

Most of "450-500 RWHP goal" cars are sold just before or during a divorce since these are BIG $$$ pits but the few (and I mean VERY few) people that break 450 RWHP have something to be proud of. Most people that end up making 450 RWHP probably started with a HP goal 25-30 HP higher than that. Very few end up with the results they first thought of.

If the car is mor of a race car and you are willing to make sacrifices and spens more $$$, you "can" get better results but there are TONS of people with a 400 RWHP goal that do not make that. Once you cross the 420 and especially 440 RWHP mark, every HP that you get is gonna cost alot of $$$ and require personal fabrication and or drivability/reliability changes.

Just get a good game plan and realize what the budget and end esults are gonna be like.

Lloyd

ChazGotACAmaro

Wow, I had no idea so much went into hitting these numbers, I guess I'm going to have to rethink my goals because I still want the car to be drivable on the street. Thanks to everyone who has contibuted to this post so far. You guys have all been super helpful.

Injuneer

Nitrous makes perfect sense on a street car. I ended up with a mild 381 that made a shade under 500 flywheelHP, and passed NJ rolling emissions. Truely pleasant to drive on the street. More than enough HP for the street. Traction is a challenge even at that level. For the track, a 300-shot of nitrous. Originally I set it up with a first stage 125-shot for the street and a 150-shot second stage for the track. The 125-shot was of limited value on the street.... no way to hook it up.

ABA383

I think a big problem today is people getting caught up in numbers and kind of lose track of what they want to accomplish with the car...To an extent numbers are just that, numbers...I can't tell you how much dyno manipulation I've seen as these things have become more mainstream...

Pick a goal, then research a vendor who can make it happen, and go for it...Or find someone on here with a car that has a combo that you like and pick his/her brain...most of all have fun...

--Alan

marshall93z

I'd be willing to bet that he'd be pretty happy with a 400 RWHP car!

97WS6NY

Yeah undoubtably. Especially if he has never driven one. I thought when I did my combo that I would really need/want all the power, and the truth is, I only run it on the street, and I definitely don't need it all. Not very many places around here where I can even get on it, not to mention it is a little bit of work to drive it in traffic.

ChazGotACAmaro

Yeah my car is currently the fastest one I've ever driven and I know that she's not even close to 400 RWHP.