SAM

Havent been on this board in a LONG time, but wanted to get back and figured I'd ask something people here may help with...I rebuilt my engine a few years ago.. the project took a long time to get back together. I did 383 build, Callies Dragonslayer crank, I-beam rods..etc. The heads are AFR 190's.

Anyways, I went to fire it up a bit ago and it fired right up and ran perfect.. BUT very low oil pressure. Shut it down and checked oil and noticed it looked milky. Drained water and oil, change oil sending unit. Started it back up..Same thing. Low oil pressure and water immediately in oil. Tried it again..Kind of in denial at this point, but did not start it this time cause it seemed water was getting in without even starting.. I drained fluids and have been so dissappointed I havent looked at it for a while..

I'm going to start tearing it down soon and wondered what I should look for.. I hate to tear the whole engine out and find out it was something up top I could have done. I checked intake and it seems tight. Water seems to go in oil immediately.. Would head gaskets cause water to get in that soon without starting? I'm afraid it's bad machine work on the block or something..

Any suggestions of things to check as I tear down.. or things to check before I tear down will be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks for taking the time to read and any suggestions you may have.

MTBSully

if its getting in that quickly, either you have a really messed up head gasket, or possibly the machine shop hit a water jacket in the block.

jpack24

Head bolts or did you use studs? What did you use as sealent on them?

RamAir95TA

This would be my first guess as well.

WS6T3RROR

Other than leaking around the head bolts/studs. Whoever clearanced it for the stroke probably hit water and did not notice. Some of these blocks are really really bad with core shift. What I would do is pull the valve covers etc off so you can see and I would hook an air hose with low pressure (10psi or less, wont take much) and hook it up to the hard steamline and pressurize the system (rad cap and all hoses on) and look for bubbles around the head bolts etc. pull the oil drain plug out and have somebody listen down there too.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

I don't suspect studs for a big leak like he's describing. If that's all it was, stop leak or sealant tabs would fix it.

97'Z-28

I also think they hit a water jacket in the block when they clearanced it for the rods.

Are the spark plugs wet with coolant also?

SAM

Thanks for the replies, guys... sorry I havent been able to get back here recently..

Yeah I did used ARP head studs along with their sealant.. I'm afraid they hit a water jacket in the block

That's a good idea about the air pressure.. I'll try that before I tear it down to get an idea.. then check head gaskets before I take engine completely out.

I just wanted to make sure it coudnt be something silly or easy before I really get this thing tore down.

Has anyone had this happen before? Is the block junk or is there a chance it can be repaired?.. obviously you'd have to see it, but I'm curious if anyone has had this happen and just had block fixed?...

Thanks again!

RUDEDOG

1. Pull engine. 2. Disassemble and ck for damage. 3. 1/2 fill with hardblock up to knock sensor. 4. Re-assemble with new bearings.