water pump coolant line... bottom pass side
01-20-2004, 06:22 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,035
water pump coolant line... bottom pass side
where does this coolant line go? It is the bottom passenger side coolant line, and it has a tear in it. I am hoping this is the reason my car was overheating, it is at the dealership now waiting for a quote. How hard is that damn line to replace? I realyl dont want to spend 200$ just to get a damn tube replaced... I just did a cam install for cheap! so I guess there goes the savings...
any advice helpful,
thx
eddy
any advice helpful,
thx
eddy
01-20-2004, 06:25 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Indianola, MS
Posts: 870
Heater core.
http://www.97ta.com/useless_folder/heatercore1.jpg
http://www.97ta.com/useless_folder/heatercore1.jpg
01-20-2004, 06:39 PM
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Point Pleasant, NJ... USA
Posts: 1,955
http://shbox.com/1/heater_hoses.jpg
You mean # 12 or 15 in the above diagram from shoebox' site?
Bring bux for the dealer to do that..
However with a Dremel and some patience, you can do it cheap...
Cut # 16 clamp with the Dremel carefully and split the crimped on clamp off with a screwdriver.. then remove it at the WP [regular clamp there].. then do the same and cut the clamp on the 'flow restrictor'[ black plastic thing by WP] just the side away from the WP if # 12 isn't leaking[ the little elbow]
That's just 3/4" heater hose, and a 14.5" piece will work fine in place of the preformed hose...
Or ghetto it for now and cut the hose above where it's leaking [ to avoid Dremeling it 'on the car' which is the hard part of this ]and get a connector to reattach..
The above is a LOT cheaper and easier than the GM part[ which is the entire 2 pipes and 6 hoses as a unit]
And the labor to replace that is gonna kill ya..
I did all my hoses on the car and did all the heater pipe hoses on the car with a Dremel [ wasn't EASY but it can be done]
Might have to move the alt etc but its doable..
You mean # 12 or 15 in the above diagram from shoebox' site?
Bring bux for the dealer to do that..
However with a Dremel and some patience, you can do it cheap...
Cut # 16 clamp with the Dremel carefully and split the crimped on clamp off with a screwdriver.. then remove it at the WP [regular clamp there].. then do the same and cut the clamp on the 'flow restrictor'[ black plastic thing by WP] just the side away from the WP if # 12 isn't leaking[ the little elbow]
That's just 3/4" heater hose, and a 14.5" piece will work fine in place of the preformed hose...
Or ghetto it for now and cut the hose above where it's leaking [ to avoid Dremeling it 'on the car' which is the hard part of this ]and get a connector to reattach..
The above is a LOT cheaper and easier than the GM part[ which is the entire 2 pipes and 6 hoses as a unit]
And the labor to replace that is gonna kill ya..
I did all my hoses on the car and did all the heater pipe hoses on the car with a Dremel [ wasn't EASY but it can be done]
Might have to move the alt etc but its doable..
01-20-2004, 07:46 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,035
it is tube #15 on that diagram, and it is split near the wp I can see the tear in it. there is no driving it where it is now, so hopefully it isnt too expensive... I've been under the car installing a cam the last week, and this is 2nd week of school... need to do hw instead of be under car.
thanks for advice, if they say itll be too much ill just do it myself.
thanks for advice, if they say itll be too much ill just do it myself.
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