What can I do with 8k
09-27-2007, 02:00 PM
#32
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Stroudsburg, PA
Posts: 948
mahle flat top pistons/forged rods/rod bolts/piston rings - $750
bearings - $100
block machinework - $1000 (overbore, line hone, balance, assembly)
LE2 h/c package - $1750
LE ported intake - $200
LT4 extreme duty timing chain - $220
pro mag rockers - $300
7/16 studs - $30
guideplates - $30
pushrods - $150
complete gasket set - $250
pacesetter LT headers - $280
pacesetter ORY - $125
e-cutout - $150 (reuse stock catback)
CAI - $150
taylor over the valvecover plug wires - $90
PCM tune - $100
CPT race rebuilt 4L60E - $1000
yank converter of your choice - $800 (personaly Id go yank PT4000)
3.73s - $250
total: $7725
im sure im missing a few odds and ends but that just about covers everything except suspension and tires.
that combo should have no problem trapping near 118 mph or so. your tires/suspension would decide what ET you run.
bearings - $100
block machinework - $1000 (overbore, line hone, balance, assembly)
LE2 h/c package - $1750
LE ported intake - $200
LT4 extreme duty timing chain - $220
pro mag rockers - $300
7/16 studs - $30
guideplates - $30
pushrods - $150
complete gasket set - $250
pacesetter LT headers - $280
pacesetter ORY - $125
e-cutout - $150 (reuse stock catback)
CAI - $150
taylor over the valvecover plug wires - $90
PCM tune - $100
CPT race rebuilt 4L60E - $1000
yank converter of your choice - $800 (personaly Id go yank PT4000)
3.73s - $250
total: $7725
im sure im missing a few odds and ends but that just about covers everything except suspension and tires.
that combo should have no problem trapping near 118 mph or so. your tires/suspension would decide what ET you run.
Last edited by Zigroid; 09-27-2007 at 02:07 PM.
09-27-2007, 08:32 PM
#33
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,109
mahle flat top pistons/forged rods/rod bolts/piston rings - $750
PCM tune - $100
CPT race rebuilt 4L60E - $1000
3.73s - $250
total: $7725
im sure im missing a few odds and ends but that just about covers everything except suspension and tires.
that combo should have no problem trapping near 118 mph or so. your tires/suspension would decide what ET you run.
PCM tune - $100
CPT race rebuilt 4L60E - $1000
3.73s - $250
total: $7725
im sure im missing a few odds and ends but that just about covers everything except suspension and tires.
that combo should have no problem trapping near 118 mph or so. your tires/suspension would decide what ET you run.
why would he get a 4l60e? his car didn't come with one
3.73's would be a waste because he's most likely going to blow his rear.
I think the only person that does a mail order tune for his car is madz28, and he states on his site that it is only suppose to be used as a baseline tune. and that's 200. so make that 500 for a dyno tune and scratch the pcm tune (no sense on getting it tuned twice)
and you forgot injectors, throttle body, fuel pump, and most likely an optispark. and you left him/her no room for suspension or tires because you already went way over the limit without leaving room for traction mods, so he/she is just going to put on a smoke show.
09-27-2007, 09:49 PM
#34
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,525
where did you find mahle pistons and forged rods for 750? isn't that the going price for just the pistons?
why would he get a 4l60e? his car didn't come with one
3.73's would be a waste because he's most likely going to blow his rear.
I think the only person that does a mail order tune for his car is madz28, and he states on his site that it is only suppose to be used as a baseline tune. and that's 200. so make that 500 for a dyno tune and scratch the pcm tune (no sense on getting it tuned twice)
and you forgot injectors, throttle body, fuel pump, and most likely an optispark. and you left him/her no room for suspension or tires because you already went way over the limit without leaving room for traction mods, so he/she is just going to put on a smoke show.
why would he get a 4l60e? his car didn't come with one
3.73's would be a waste because he's most likely going to blow his rear.
I think the only person that does a mail order tune for his car is madz28, and he states on his site that it is only suppose to be used as a baseline tune. and that's 200. so make that 500 for a dyno tune and scratch the pcm tune (no sense on getting it tuned twice)
and you forgot injectors, throttle body, fuel pump, and most likely an optispark. and you left him/her no room for suspension or tires because you already went way over the limit without leaving room for traction mods, so he/she is just going to put on a smoke show.
Quite a few things left out of that summary - and it's the little things that kill the budget. I too would like to know where forged Mahle pistons, rings and forged rods/bolts come in at $750.
The bottom line, putting together a quality 383/396/355 engine is going to cost you some coin.
09-28-2007, 01:47 AM
#35
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Stroudsburg, PA
Posts: 948
im used to typing 4L60E, CPT sells 4L60s too...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0406&rd=1&rd=1
thats where I got mahle pistons and forged rods for $750.
also notice where I said im sure im missing a few odds and ends? I didnt say it was a 100% complete list...
my LE3 383 ran with the stock fuel pump fine. I never ran out of fuel. regardless theres still room in the budget.
you dont need a larger throttle body. its just not worth it. imo its one of those mods where youre trying to squeeze every last hp out of. just not necessary in this kind of build.
so if he has 2.73s he should just stick with them instead of going 3.73s? 10 bolts may not be strong but theyre not complete garbage, especially behind an auto. ive got a buddy that pulls consistent 1.4-1.5 60's on his completely stock rear in a sprayed LS1 TA. manuals seem to screw them up faster.
quite a few people just run off mail order tunes. I know I did. javier doesnt seem to have a problem with his. of course a dyno tune would be best but it doesnt mean you HAVE to have one.
he also said he never wanted to go 1/4 mile racing. maybe he wants a fast street car? why break into the suspension if you dont have to?
also name all the little things I left out. I forgot injectors and fuel pump. when I did my 383 build the only things I could think of that added to the cost that I did not account for was the coolant temp sensor I broke. I budgeted $6000 for the build and it cost me $6200.
dont forget either that if you spend time looking on the forum you can find some decent deals for used parts. I picked up comp pro mag rockers, poly locks, guideplates, and studs for $200. thats $350 worth of parts new. I also got a yank PT4000 recently rebuilt for $475. saved over $300 there. I recently sold my (all new) 355 block with machinework already done, mahle pistons, forged rods, and gm forged crank for $1000. thats at least $500 less than what it would cost to buy separate.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0406&rd=1&rd=1
thats where I got mahle pistons and forged rods for $750.
also notice where I said im sure im missing a few odds and ends? I didnt say it was a 100% complete list...
my LE3 383 ran with the stock fuel pump fine. I never ran out of fuel. regardless theres still room in the budget.
you dont need a larger throttle body. its just not worth it. imo its one of those mods where youre trying to squeeze every last hp out of. just not necessary in this kind of build.
so if he has 2.73s he should just stick with them instead of going 3.73s? 10 bolts may not be strong but theyre not complete garbage, especially behind an auto. ive got a buddy that pulls consistent 1.4-1.5 60's on his completely stock rear in a sprayed LS1 TA. manuals seem to screw them up faster.
quite a few people just run off mail order tunes. I know I did. javier doesnt seem to have a problem with his. of course a dyno tune would be best but it doesnt mean you HAVE to have one.
he also said he never wanted to go 1/4 mile racing. maybe he wants a fast street car? why break into the suspension if you dont have to?
also name all the little things I left out. I forgot injectors and fuel pump. when I did my 383 build the only things I could think of that added to the cost that I did not account for was the coolant temp sensor I broke. I budgeted $6000 for the build and it cost me $6200.
dont forget either that if you spend time looking on the forum you can find some decent deals for used parts. I picked up comp pro mag rockers, poly locks, guideplates, and studs for $200. thats $350 worth of parts new. I also got a yank PT4000 recently rebuilt for $475. saved over $300 there. I recently sold my (all new) 355 block with machinework already done, mahle pistons, forged rods, and gm forged crank for $1000. thats at least $500 less than what it would cost to buy separate.