What do most stock 6 speed LT1 F bodies run in the 1/4 miles?
11-11-2007, 12:10 AM
#16
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Location: las vegas
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i am glad you posted your runs,people look at me when i tell them what my old cars ran
HRP is a bad a$$ track 50' above sea level. HMP is nice too but its 1/8 mi.
i unfortunately did not own my z while i lived there but i worked on many and to be honest i
can say i NEVER saw an Lt1 car run a 14 anything, all 13.6-13.8 with the factory GSC tires
11-11-2007, 11:26 AM
#18
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Downers Grove, Illinois
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This is going to slow down my selling process. Now that the car has pissed me off I will let it go for 6k after it gets fixed.
11-11-2007, 01:34 PM
#20
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alright, my car ran a 13.9 with a 2.2 60' stock. I put some headers on and the best i could get was a 13.8 with a 2.2 60'. is there something wrong here? I already have an LT4 KM and a tune for the headers, I can't figure it out for the life of me. oh and sorry for the hijack
11-11-2007, 02:35 PM
#21
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alright, my car ran a 13.9 with a 2.2 60' stock. I put some headers on and the best i could get was a 13.8 with a 2.2 60'. is there something wrong here? I already have an LT4 KM and a tune for the headers, I can't figure it out for the life of me. oh and sorry for the hijack
11-11-2007, 02:40 PM
#22
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Location: Pgh, PA
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How was the weather on the pre-header runs versus the post header runs? The car might need a tune. No two cars are the same. Mine seemed to REALLY wake up with a tune.
You should get it on a diagnostic scanner and do some WOT runs to see how everything looks. See how many degrees of knock retard you are getting. If you are seeing some KR, run really high octane unleaded fuel and then scan it. If you still are seeing it, it is false knock and you may have to chase the problem down.
Exhaust leak before the O2's ??? Or immediately after. While the O2's are not used at WOT, they do work to build the long term fuel correction tables and could cause you to run to rich/lean even under WOT, leading to worse results than expected. How old are the O2's ? When you datastream the sensors, see that they are constanyly fluctuating between 100-900mV. If one is faster than the other, replace them both. Does it smell rich at idle? You will smell more raw fuel smell in your exhaust without cats, but nothing extreme.
You should get it on a diagnostic scanner and do some WOT runs to see how everything looks. See how many degrees of knock retard you are getting. If you are seeing some KR, run really high octane unleaded fuel and then scan it. If you still are seeing it, it is false knock and you may have to chase the problem down.
Exhaust leak before the O2's ??? Or immediately after. While the O2's are not used at WOT, they do work to build the long term fuel correction tables and could cause you to run to rich/lean even under WOT, leading to worse results than expected. How old are the O2's ? When you datastream the sensors, see that they are constanyly fluctuating between 100-900mV. If one is faster than the other, replace them both. Does it smell rich at idle? You will smell more raw fuel smell in your exhaust without cats, but nothing extreme.
11-11-2007, 03:10 PM
#23
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 459
102 before, 104 after
Preheader runs: about 70 outside, low humidity, car and car oils were warm. (13.9 best)
Postheader runs: 50 outside, low humidity, car and car oils were cold. (13.8 best)
The car does have an interesting smell pretty consistent strange smell that doesnt smell like oil or coolant or it running rich. I have no idea what the smell is.
Mileage is not different.
I have an lt4 KM and run premium consistently with a tune for the LTs and the rest of the mods.
The o2's are new. There is an exhaust leak like noise, but I have checked and checked and checked and cannot find an exhaust leak. Its a fairly consistent sounding tick, but its not loud. The car had leaky header gaskets for a while and after a few tries, I fixed the leak. I have one cat after the ORY.
The car has 115,000 on it. All valve train components are the same and the timing chain is the same one from the factory. I was curious and decided to readjust the valves a few weeks ago, the rockers were slightly loose. I have not run the car since the readjustment.
How would I go about getting a diagnostic tuner?
How was the weather on the pre-header runs versus the post header runs? The car might need a tune. No two cars are the same. Mine seemed to REALLY wake up with a tune.
You should get it on a diagnostic scanner and do some WOT runs to see how everything looks. See how many degrees of knock retard you are getting. If you are seeing some KR, run really high octane unleaded fuel and then scan it. If you still are seeing it, it is false knock and you may have to chase the problem down.
Exhaust leak before the O2's ??? Or immediately after. While the O2's are not used at WOT, they do work to build the long term fuel correction tables and could cause you to run to rich/lean even under WOT, leading to worse results than expected. How old are the O2's ? When you datastream the sensors, see that they are constanyly fluctuating between 100-900mV. If one is faster than the other, replace them both. Does it smell rich at idle? You will smell more raw fuel smell in your exhaust without cats, but nothing extreme.
You should get it on a diagnostic scanner and do some WOT runs to see how everything looks. See how many degrees of knock retard you are getting. If you are seeing some KR, run really high octane unleaded fuel and then scan it. If you still are seeing it, it is false knock and you may have to chase the problem down.
Exhaust leak before the O2's ??? Or immediately after. While the O2's are not used at WOT, they do work to build the long term fuel correction tables and could cause you to run to rich/lean even under WOT, leading to worse results than expected. How old are the O2's ? When you datastream the sensors, see that they are constanyly fluctuating between 100-900mV. If one is faster than the other, replace them both. Does it smell rich at idle? You will smell more raw fuel smell in your exhaust without cats, but nothing extreme.
Postheader runs: 50 outside, low humidity, car and car oils were cold. (13.8 best)
The car does have an interesting smell pretty consistent strange smell that doesnt smell like oil or coolant or it running rich. I have no idea what the smell is.
Mileage is not different.
I have an lt4 KM and run premium consistently with a tune for the LTs and the rest of the mods.
The o2's are new. There is an exhaust leak like noise, but I have checked and checked and checked and cannot find an exhaust leak. Its a fairly consistent sounding tick, but its not loud. The car had leaky header gaskets for a while and after a few tries, I fixed the leak. I have one cat after the ORY.
The car has 115,000 on it. All valve train components are the same and the timing chain is the same one from the factory. I was curious and decided to readjust the valves a few weeks ago, the rockers were slightly loose. I have not run the car since the readjustment.
How would I go about getting a diagnostic tuner?
Last edited by Ironxcross; 11-11-2007 at 05:06 PM.
11-11-2007, 05:06 PM
#24
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11-11-2007, 05:27 PM
#25
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11-11-2007, 05:38 PM
#26
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Location: Norfolk, VA. USA
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Back in 2000 a few of us went to the local 1/4 and our friends bone stock 97 Trans Am M6 ran a 13.6 and another friend with a 96 Trans Am Auto with only 3.73 gears ran a 13.6 as well. both had street tires.
My old bolt on 96 Trans Am M6 went 13.4 @ 107 (it is now owned by my little brother and he put an LS1 in it and ran a 12.03 @ 114 with minor issues)
My old bolt on 96 Trans Am M6 went 13.4 @ 107 (it is now owned by my little brother and he put an LS1 in it and ran a 12.03 @ 114 with minor issues)
Last edited by Zepher; 11-11-2007 at 05:41 PM.
11-11-2007, 05:55 PM
#28
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Bartonville, Ill
Posts: 309
I had a very hard time getting a good launch with my 315DR's and my 3.42 geared 10bolt, they just ain't a slick. It was bog or spin @ 2500-3000rpm, with 2.2 and 2.3 60ft's. I just put in my 12bolt w/3.73 gears and changed the cat-back to a TSP rumbler. NOTE: My headers, as noted in my sig, are actually still on the shelf, so I am still running manifolds. So, with my changes being a larger cat-back diameter, more gear, borrowed slicks and front swaybar removal. I went from a best of 13.7 @102 to a 13.09 @106, with consistent 1.9 60ft's. Dumping the clutch anywhere from 4000rpm -5500rpm did not change my 60's, it just ate my clutch. But the 13.09 @106 was beyond my expectations with these mods, I'm not even retuned yet. So I would honestly expect more out of your combo. This is @ Cordova dragway in NW Ill. @ 55 degrees on Oct. 27th.
Last edited by 3DFORMULA; 11-11-2007 at 05:57 PM.
11-11-2007, 06:28 PM
#29
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Posts: 459
[QUOTE=3DFORMULA;4983827]I was thinking the same thing, mid-low 13's with the headers. What is the rear gear? I think 3.42 is the standard 6-spd gear.
QUOTE]
would moving to a 3:73 or 4:10 gear help out my 1/4 times any? the car pulls really hard all the way to about 5.5k and getting the rpms up quicker might help. just wondering
QUOTE]
would moving to a 3:73 or 4:10 gear help out my 1/4 times any? the car pulls really hard all the way to about 5.5k and getting the rpms up quicker might help. just wondering
11-11-2007, 07:26 PM
#30
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Bartonville, Ill
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[QUOTE=Ironxcross;4983896]
For sure, but the 10 bolt would be a weak link with the thinner gears(from what I have heard) such as 4.10's. I made the move to a used 12 bolt that already had 3.73s in there, but next spring I'm gonna move them up to 4.30s. At the finish line I am at a pretty low rpm in fourth gear. I actually shift into fourth after the 1000 foot mark. WAY later than I would like. If I was tuned, with the rev limiter moved off of 5900-6000rpm, I could probably run thru in 3rd gear.
Also, at what speed was you shifting? I personally bounce it off the limiter. I also speed shift, that is, I do not let off the gas when I shift while racing. This may have some minimal time increase with it. This also may have something to do with the stock clutch saying, I give up(lol). There should be more in your car tho'. I didn't get a chance to run the car on the DR's after the changes. My buddy let me use his slicks and I was able to make 5 passes and I used the slicks on all 5. I think that I could say the slicks DID give me a good 3tenths. So I may only be 13.3 on the junk tires with the inconsistent launching that I get with them.
I was thinking the same thing, mid-low 13's with the headers. What is the rear gear? I think 3.42 is the standard 6-spd gear.
QUOTE]
would moving to a 3:73 or 4:10 gear help out my 1/4 times any? the car pulls really hard all the way to about 5.5k and getting the rpms up quicker might help. just wondering
QUOTE]
would moving to a 3:73 or 4:10 gear help out my 1/4 times any? the car pulls really hard all the way to about 5.5k and getting the rpms up quicker might help. just wondering
Also, at what speed was you shifting? I personally bounce it off the limiter. I also speed shift, that is, I do not let off the gas when I shift while racing. This may have some minimal time increase with it. This also may have something to do with the stock clutch saying, I give up(lol). There should be more in your car tho'. I didn't get a chance to run the car on the DR's after the changes. My buddy let me use his slicks and I was able to make 5 passes and I used the slicks on all 5. I think that I could say the slicks DID give me a good 3tenths. So I may only be 13.3 on the junk tires with the inconsistent launching that I get with them.
Last edited by 3DFORMULA; 11-11-2007 at 07:33 PM.