SPEED750

I think it takes a crank with a 3.875 stroke. ? What length rod do you use? Are the pistons custom size? The more info you can give the better. Can you get a internal balanced crank so you still use the stock flywheel and balancer?
HELP PLEASE

amean94ta

about $15,000 lol that's what i got in mine. But anyways yes a crank with a 3.875 stroke. You can use 5.85 rods or 6.0 like i did most go 5.85 lunati but i got 6.0 eagle 3d forged very limited on pistons because of pin height. Je i think has the only "off the shelf" pistons other than that ross made me a nice set but that would be a custom order. Never order a balenced assembly have a good machine shop in your area do it they will get tighter tolerences. I had the weight machined off my flywheel for a internal balence. yes you can use the stock balencer but i would not ati makes a good one fluiddamper's brand gel up after a couple years where ati has bands you can replace if you need too.
any other questions feel free to pm me
sean

SS MPSTR

I was going to say either about 12 large and/or a high limit credit card.

97WS6SCharged

You guys have too much money. Why not give me some?

Seriously though, it takes cash and a good machine shop. You're also going to need a good set of heads to feed it.

SS MPSTR

Not anymore.

fstenuf

if/when you go through with this make sure you get a very nice set of heads(as stated above) then have them flowed so you can have a custom cam made to help you get the most out of your motor.

i know a 396 is a very nice motor but if i could do my all over again i'd build a low compression 355 with all the goodies and supercharge it. just depends on what you want and how much money you have to spend. just my .02

SPEED750

Why does it take so much money? If I get the crank, rods and pistons, what is the difference between a 396 and a 383? What am I missing here? You guys are talking like it's a $12k motor. Is there something big I'm missing. I was thinking in the $5,500 range. I'm not starting from scratch, I already have a running LT1 4bolt main.

amean94ta

yeah ok i had a 50k mile good running engine too but to do it right and not a backyard build as cheap as i think you can get away with would be $9,000 parts machine work and some heads to flow in the 270 in - 230 ex (just a example thats what mine flow) **** gaskets cost me $400 and if you use your stock heads and have them done your looking about $2,200 crane gold rr $300 valves $350 i could go on and on but you will see you could do a nice 355 for $5,000

SPEED750

Dude, your right! You could do a real nice 355 for $4500. But I still don't get it. What extra machine work does it take (to do a 355 from scratch or a 396) besides clearancing the block? What different gaskets does it take, head gasket maybe? I really don't know! I can get new CNC ported LT4 heads for $2050. I already have crane full RR's. $700 crank, $400 rods, $600 pistons, $300 cam
I swear I'm not trying to be an azz, but where does the extra $7k go???

Are you talking about walking up to the counter and ordering a 396 from your local speed shop, or are you doing everything yourself besides the heavy machine work?

97WS6SCharged

Upgraded fuel pump, throttlebody, injectors, headers, etc... Then fixing all the stuff you break with your 396.

amean94ta

bore and hone with deck plates,balence,square and deck the block, mine is hard blocked,align hone,rework oiling system,clearance3 the block,assembly,(trust me if you never did this before have them do it),lt4 timing chain,ported intake,canton oil pan, head studs, main studs, high volume oil pump, oil pump stud. the stuff 97 ws6 said and those cnc lt4 heads dont cut it,dyno tune

amean94ta

p.s i am the part owner of krs machining here in erie,pa and trust me as cheap is your gonna get it is $9,000 thats with you doing the work

speed76demon

I am not very mechanically inclined but won't you have to upgrade your rear end and tranny when you are pushing that much hp's?? Just a thought on where more money will be going. The tranny prolly depends on auto vs. manual but just a couple thoughts

amean94ta

the rear and trans will last for a bit if its in good working condition now and you dont plan on dr radials or alot of track driving just daily driving will last alot longer

97WS6SCharged

The auto will end up living up to the "Slushbox" nickname behind a stout 396. A T56 will most likely fry the clutch or bend the 3-4 shift rod (why GM decided to use an aluminum rod I'll never know). The rearend will last longer behind an auto, but it will break after a few hard launches. Basically alot of extra $$ will be spent fixing anything behind the engine. Don't forget a nice set of subframe connectors so you don't get any body flex under hard acceleration.