XxXTransAmXxX

396 is a rare LT1 what I mean by that is, more machining is needed, and higher end parts, for pistons there are a few diff off the shelfs that I found when doing my current 396 build. However they are REALLY HIGH compression, so if you would want a lower compression you would need custom pistons ($800 range) plus rings. GOOD heads as I have the AFR 227cc's for mine when it's finished...Just takes alot to FEED the big dog besides the "parts" as mentioned above injectors, etc...then a good tune TRUST ME it goes fast. Also with a 396 Build that you're wrapping the money into parts, you don't wanna scrimp on the machinging with the bare minimum. My shortblock is splayed to a 4 bolt (stronger than the factory 4blts), splayed billet steel maincaps, decked, and blueprinted, cam degreed, etc....All those things equal a large chunk of coin too...Most go the route of the 383 for it being cheaper, which sounds like is what you wanna do since you keep quesitoning the price of a 396 which is fine, but if you wanna be different and yea on a fairly mild 383 vs a mildl 396 the torque number is only a lil better, but ONCE you bolt on it'll be a farrr greater number, and you'll be happy you did..

amean94ta

did you guys get your caqrs running?

DarkHorse

If you want to do a 396" the right way it takes big money. You need all of the supporting mods as well: Suspension, rearend, transmission, cage, etc....

Perhaps CANTONRACER will chime in as we are about 85% complete with his entire car: 396" huge AFR heads, Kooks headers, TH400, Neil Chance converter, 12 bolt, solid roller, etc.... waaaay to much for me to list.

Kraest

I also had a 396 LT1 and can honestly say that I agree with everyone else.

While you may calculate $6000 or so in parts (rods, crank, pistons, ported or aftermarket heads, ported or aftermarket intake manifold, cam) you're forgetting everything else that will nickel and dime you to death such as the transmission buildup (4L60E) or T-56 conversion (I went both routes.. ROFL ), dyno tuning, LT4 block or splayed cap conversion (a 2-bolt main 396 = living on the edge), not to mention all of the aftermarket components you'll need such as a big throttlebody, longtube headers, lifters, rockers, pushrods, valvesprings, titanium retainers, rev-kit, oil pan, oil pump, fuel pump, injectors, rear-end, a ton of gaskets, ARP bolts for everything, etc, etc, etc, etc.

That figure you've estimated in your mind can easily double.

Mike

snakeatinZ

you cant just build a 396, 383 and just put it in. my older brothers ta project started as what was going to be a heads & cam two week thing, into a COMPLETE restoration, paint included. That is what you end up doing when you decide to build a stroker. One month it is tranny, next month is 12 Bolt, suspention, dont forget brakes, dyno time for tuning, 6 point cage. He has...easy... 25-35 large in this project and that is with planning ahead. The nickle and diming has yet to come.
money well spent.....I got Shotgun
Steve

BUBBA

Just to show you how really dumb I am, I always thought that you had to bore the cyls out to get more CI. Am I right then to assume that you just need to shorten the stroke and install shorter pistons--something like that? I never reallyl thought about it.

amean94ta

with that many posts bubba you should know by now but yes bore and leathing the rods and stroke

p.s been drinking cant spell

CANTONRACER

To do it right is going to cost some good coin.

But if your not worried about getting every last drop of power out of the motor, you could build a 396" for a lot less and just use some good ported LT1's with a custom cam.