what kind of mods to get to 300rwhp on an automatic car?
#1
what kind of mods to get to 300rwhp on an automatic car?
I would like to know if these mods will get me to 300rwhp.. My planned mods are LLoyd Elliot ported and polished heads, Crane 227 camshaft 479 518 210/224 , Borla 2 3/4 Y pipe, Hooker catback, high flow cat, SLP CAI, and PCM for less tuning. I know that I would get more power with the headers, but I don't race enough to have them installled , and I heard that it is a lot of hassle and time to install them.. Will this cam give me more topend power than the stock cam and more torque?
#3
Yeah, you really need headers. That cam and heads are a complete waste if you dont have headers. You stock manifolds will simply choke that. You dont need to get long tubes either, get some decent mids, or heck, even shorties. And yeah, they are a hassle, but they arent difficult, just time consuming. I would say the cam install would be a little more difficult than headers.
#6
You don't need headers. You should achieve your goal
of 300 with what you described if everything else is
working properly. Granted I have the M6, but I am close
to your goal with a stock cam and stock heads.
Now that I'm thinking about, I'll bet if I took off the 315s
and put the 245s on it would be worth 2 rwhp.
of 300 with what you described if everything else is
working properly. Granted I have the M6, but I am close
to your goal with a stock cam and stock heads.
Now that I'm thinking about, I'll bet if I took off the 315s
and put the 245s on it would be worth 2 rwhp.
Last edited by truedualws6; 04-22-2004 at 07:21 PM.
#9
Originally posted by mkent
are the Eagle F1's your only "traction mod?" that seems like a really good E.T. for a 300rwhp car
are the Eagle F1's your only "traction mod?" that seems like a really good E.T. for a 300rwhp car
#11
Originally posted by mkent
are the Eagle F1's your only "traction mod?" that seems like a really good E.T. for a 300rwhp car
are the Eagle F1's your only "traction mod?" that seems like a really good E.T. for a 300rwhp car
Hotcam Kit/Longtubes. See sig...
#12
def do headers if u are doing heads. u already have the manifolds off, why put them back on. headers wont be any harder than putting the manifolds back on.
i think u will be more than fine with your goal.
mine dynoed 333RWHP/341RWTQ through an A4 with a cam and full bolt ons on STOCK heads.
i think u will be more than fine with your goal.
mine dynoed 333RWHP/341RWTQ through an A4 with a cam and full bolt ons on STOCK heads.
#13
Originally posted by speed_demon24
Yep, I ran 3 13.0's, so its not a 1 hit wonder. 13.056 with a 1.95 60', 13.046 with a 1.929 60', and the time in sig. The suspension is 100% stock. I have 3.73' going in tomarrow, so I hope that puts me in the 12's@106+.
Yep, I ran 3 13.0's, so its not a 1 hit wonder. 13.056 with a 1.95 60', 13.046 with a 1.929 60', and the time in sig. The suspension is 100% stock. I have 3.73' going in tomarrow, so I hope that puts me in the 12's@106+.
my best is 13.2 with bald street tires, looking forward to fixing that problem.
#14
Why are you putting all that money in the heads when you are using a cam like that 210/224? Its really not much bigger than the stock one. The LT1 head has excellent low and mid-lift numbers for great power up to 6000 rpm in a 350 by themselves. If you want to spin the motor higher, then by all means get them ported to do so, and a cam/tb combo to match. To get the heads ported and polished, and then use a cam smaller than the hotcam seems like a total waste of money to me. If I were doing it, I would get the headers and exhaust, descreen the maf, 160 deg thermostat, underdrive pulleys, extreme cold-air intake, Walbro fuel pump (just for grins ), good set of plugs and wires, coil, aluminum driveshaft, synthetic oil in rear diffy, and good dyno tune. See where you are at that point. If you want more, put in the Meziere electric water pump, cut the guides down on the heads a bit (can do this on the car with special cutter), install LT4 springs and 1.6 self-aligning rockers. This will increase the lift at the valve, and the effective duration of the cam increasing hp without losing much at the bottom. I would bet it's worth 15 hp or so. You would also be ready for the hotcam if you wanted to do so. The heads should be the last thing mainly because of the expense and hassle, and you said you were only looking for 300 rwhp. Like some guys said in this thread, bolt-ons will get you there easily.