Zepher

Purolater filter
Valvoline VR1 Race oil, 20w50.

I just went to Valvolines site and since my car is used for high performance and has over 180K miles on it I should be using Max Life Synthetic.

FASTFATBOY

$12 I think on the filter, I think it crosses to a Delco PF35L.


David

SS RRR

yikes

FASTFATBOY

I called, they are $10, it is a race filter.


Cheap compared to a rebuild.

David

Projectz28

The K&N filter has a micron rating of 10. Which is better than almost all of the other filters out there. The Delco has a rating of 25, and I believe the standard fram is 25 also. Most "race" filters have a higher micron rating to allow for better oil flow thru the filter and less pressure drop across the filter. The Moroso race filters are almost 30 microns, but they use probably close to 2 times the filter media for surface area. Its also thinner.

Not all filters are created equal, but they are not woth banging you head in over on a street car. If you have a street car go with a good quality filter with a lower micron rating. Change the oil and filter on a regular basis! That will help pull the dirt out and keep your oil cleaner. A race car can benifit from a high flow filter with a higher micron rating. Most race engines have the oil changed on a much more frequent basis than a street car and can tolerate a filter with a larger micron rating.

I personally use a Delco 1218 filter with my old motor. Still trying to decide on a filter for the new motor. It has a Delco on it now but I am probably going to go with a Fram HP race filter next. Still high flow but has extra media to help with retaining dirt.

My builder told me to run 10w40 "race oil"... still looking into that.

SS RRR

A rebuild of what? What about all those others who've ran cheaper filters like the Delco for over a hundred thousand miles w/ no need for a rebuild?

rskrause

You said it before I did. Has ANYONE here seen a modern car with an engine failure or early rebuild due to "dirty" oil with those nasty 10-25 micron particles in it? Modified performance and race cars almost always get rebuilt long before the bearings wear out. Rings lose their seal, valve springs loose pressure, etc. Or there is a catastrophic breakage, or parts are replaced to upgrade performance. In any case, problems that you would expect from used up or dirty oil simply don't cause the need to rebuild.

Street cars are usually junked before the motor wears out or a part fails (non oil related) and results in the need to rebuild. As far as wear related issues, what you usually see on very high mileage motors is oil consumption due to valve seal or ring wear. I doubt it would be possible to trace excessive wear on these parts to oil. Bearings do wear to the point of requiring a rebuild, but you sure don't see this often. It occurs as cars approach the 150-200,000 mile range. This is the area where you might see some benefit from obsessive-compulsive oil changing. So, IMHO, if you have a motor that you expect to be using for at least 150,000 miles without rebuilding for some other reason, go ahead and lay awake at night figuring out what oil and filter to use. Otherwise, use a name brand oil, an inexpensive filter, and fugeddaboutit. Of the many auto related things I lose sleep over, oil aint one of them.

Rich

cehan

I have to agree about being **** with the frequent oil changes. My old '92 Ranger pickup had 364,000 miles on it when I finally gave it to my son-in-law, who's still driving it! To date, the valve covers have never even been off. I religiously changed the oil every 3000 miles. I used either Pennzoil, Castrol GTX, or Valvoline conventional dino oil; whatever was on sale. The filters I used were either Fram or Purolator; also whatever was on sale. It still has good oil pressure, no valve train noise, how much better performance could I ask for?

Projectz28

Its definately more important to change the oil than it is to decide what oil/filter you use. My point is that I have always used Delco filters on the Camaro but other cars I have used Fram. None of which ever had engine failures due to dirty oil... I buy the less expensive filter or what ever I can find on sale. Fill it with the correct weight oil and drive it.

I do however use synthetic in both my Wifes Toyota and my Yukon... simply because I go 5000+ on an oil change.

My Red 93Z-28

Mobil 10w-40 dino and Purolator Pure One

Fram blows, I lost oil pressure with it and a friend of mine had the cardboard filter element collapse on his LS2.

FASTFATBOY

Well I will decide the filter that goes on my $13,000 engine, you all can do what ya want.


David

rje

I use Amsoil 0w30 and there 7 micron synthetic filter on my racecar, and the same type of filter, but Amsoil 5w30 in my 04 2500HD with the 8.1L and change it every 15000 miles.

Randy

FASTFATBOY

In my daily drivers I go 5000 miles on regular dino oil.

Years ago there was an article on an oil test in New York taxicabs, they put crate engines in like 20 of them, ran them 50,000 miles or so an pulled the engines and inspected them. No significant engine wear differences between changing the oil at 3000 and 5000 miles. They also put different types of oil in different cabs....I don't remember the specifics on it been a good while back.


I "THINK" this is the article, pretty good read.

http://www.xs11.com/stories/croil96.htm

David

6SpeedIROC

I use a Baldwin B1428 filter with Mobil 1 5w30. It tested very well in all comparisions I've seen. They typically supply heavy truck filters but do automotive as well. Very well built.

In my daily drivers I change the filter at 3K and oil and filter again at 6k.
In the IROC I go 3K for both.

SS RRR

That's cool, but the majority of members here don't have a $13,000 engine.
I have a 8K engine, but am still going to trust a Delco filter.