What resets after 5-10 seconds of off time?
05-28-2003, 07:06 PM
#16
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Location: Orange Kounty, Kalifornia
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You can try a new plug or switch the #7 with another easy to access plug (don't forget the anti-sieze on the plug threads or a dab of oil).
If it works, then you know it is the plug.
If it isn't the plug or wire... you may be looking at the opti.
If all of the other plugs are normal, then your coil wire would be fine.
Keep testing.
If it works, then you know it is the plug.
If it isn't the plug or wire... you may be looking at the opti.
If all of the other plugs are normal, then your coil wire would be fine.
Keep testing.
05-28-2003, 11:14 PM
#19
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The Coolant Temp Sensor will default 40*F to the ECM. The "cooler" air would tell the ECM to "richen" the injectors. However, in your case, only one bank is "wet". I really don't think it is the ECT or both sides would be fuel soaked.
05-29-2003, 09:39 PM
#21
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I guess Im screwed and just going about with the opti swap again tommorrow and the ICM. Ive talked to about 3 GM techs and my uncle who is a journeyman mechanic and Ive stumped them all about nailing down the issue
05-29-2003, 10:40 PM
#22
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What happened when you swapped the plugs?
Then what happened before you swapped the wires?
If you get the same results, then it is likely the opti. But if it works and the problem moved with the plug and wire swap (done separately), then it is a bad plug or bad wire.
The opti is a pain. I would test before removing parts. Remember the pin on the cam and that it must go into the hole on the opti. Many people mash the opti into the cam pin.... POW.
Then what happened before you swapped the wires?
If you get the same results, then it is likely the opti. But if it works and the problem moved with the plug and wire swap (done separately), then it is a bad plug or bad wire.
The opti is a pain. I would test before removing parts. Remember the pin on the cam and that it must go into the hole on the opti. Many people mash the opti into the cam pin.... POW.
05-30-2003, 07:28 PM
#24
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If one (or more spark plugs) are not firing, you can easily load up a cylinder. This can cause the cat to get REAL hot and melt. The idea of swaping the questionable plug and wire (separate times) with a known good one is to eliminate the possibility of a bad plug or wire. This would narrow things down to the opti if the #7 is the only cylinder acting up... perhaps some water got in there or oil from a leak.
Point is... if fuel hits the cat, it's going to melt can cause extreme backpressure. You will have to wait for the exhaust system to vent and start the engine again. Very similar to what you are going through.
Point is... if fuel hits the cat, it's going to melt can cause extreme backpressure. You will have to wait for the exhaust system to vent and start the engine again. Very similar to what you are going through.
05-31-2003, 09:18 PM
#28
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You had a busy day yesterday putting in an Opti after work. No luck... If it isn't ignition, then its either fuel or something mechanical. I'm just guessing that the fuel pressure regulator may be an issue... there is a vacuum hose that should connect to the regulator. Shoebox has a diagram on his website. If the hose was disconnected, you'd get full line pressure at 45-48 PSI which could flood out your engine. Can you run a fuel pressure test? Do you have a tester?
06-01-2003, 02:25 AM
#29
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no I got the opti swap down to a science now due to getting 2 dead ones outta the box. I talked about it in another thread due to another issue I had but I think I fixed that. I had to rebend the tabs on the electrical connectors for the sensors to make sure they were making a connection and I guess they werent. I got rid of my SES light and its running better. The ECT and the IACV connectors werent doing it. I also bent out the TPS,opti, and ICM connectors.
Now everything else is working but Im still getting a bog over 1/2 thottle but all the others issues are resolved. Im still taking guesses on these. I would really like a solid answer really if somebody knows
BTW even with the motor sitting so far forward in the compartment due to the swap , I can do the opti in about 90 minutes or so taking my time. I know I can have it all apart including my grill in 15 minutes! I think thats good. Takes awhile cuz the radiator is under the core support and I gotta fill it really slow
Now everything else is working but Im still getting a bog over 1/2 thottle but all the others issues are resolved. Im still taking guesses on these. I would really like a solid answer really if somebody knows
BTW even with the motor sitting so far forward in the compartment due to the swap , I can do the opti in about 90 minutes or so taking my time. I know I can have it all apart including my grill in 15 minutes! I think thats good. Takes awhile cuz the radiator is under the core support and I gotta fill it really slow
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