what's your oil pressure at???
#1
what's your oil pressure at???
what is your guys oil pressure at
when the car is cold at idle? mine is 40psi
when the car is warm at idle? mine is 20psi
and when the car is warm driiving? mine is 40psi
does mine seem low??
when the car is cold at idle? mine is 40psi
when the car is warm at idle? mine is 20psi
and when the car is warm driiving? mine is 40psi
does mine seem low??
#3
I cruise around and idle at around 20 psi. Rarely do I see my pressure above 40 psi. I've always wondered if thats low but the car seems to be running fine (been like this for years). I may have a bad pressure sensor too. I plan on changing it when I do my cam/rockers.
#5
Originally posted by ladski2
My needle points all the way off the end of the gauge past the 80....
high pressure oil pump tho
My needle points all the way off the end of the gauge past the 80....
high pressure oil pump tho
Last edited by chasmanz28; 04-24-2003 at 11:03 PM.
#6
I'm kinda worried about mine. When I'm warm and idle, I'm at something like 12 psi. I thought that was bad but my buddy thats a mechanic says that 12 is just fine and that my gauge might be off a little. When Im driving 60mph, im at 35-40. So as soon as i hit the gas I get my pressure up. I just dont like how it is at 12 at idle. I have 65000 miles on my z, I run mobil 1 fully senthetic, and despite the low pressure, my lt1 runs like a m.f.in SCALDED DOG!!! Let me know what you think about the low pressure and if anybody else has this problem.
#9
I was in the exact same boat as you.
I was worried about it.
Ended up going to 10w-30 from 5w30, switching to a freer flowing oil filter, and getting rid of the oil cooler. Went from seeing 40 psi at WOT, to over 60.
Biggest change came from oil cooler removal.
I was worried about it.
Ended up going to 10w-30 from 5w30, switching to a freer flowing oil filter, and getting rid of the oil cooler. Went from seeing 40 psi at WOT, to over 60.
Biggest change came from oil cooler removal.
#10
Mine's same as yours qwik_trip
cold idle 40psi
warm idle 20psi
warm driiving 40psi
Mobil1 5W30 and stock rotating assembly with 70K miles.
I once heard an engine builder's rule-of-thumb ...
10 PSI for every 1K RPM
cold idle 40psi
warm idle 20psi
warm driiving 40psi
Mobil1 5W30 and stock rotating assembly with 70K miles.
I once heard an engine builder's rule-of-thumb ...
10 PSI for every 1K RPM
#11
Originally posted by chevycamaro1995
I'm kinda worried about mine. When I'm warm and idle, I'm at something like 12 psi. I thought that was bad but my buddy thats a mechanic says that 12 is just fine and that my gauge might be off a little. When Im driving 60mph, im at 35-40. So as soon as i hit the gas I get my pressure up. I just dont like how it is at 12 at idle. I have 65000 miles on my z, I run mobil 1 fully senthetic, and despite the low pressure, my lt1 runs like a m.f.in SCALDED DOG!!! Let me know what you think about the low pressure and if anybody else has this problem.
I'm kinda worried about mine. When I'm warm and idle, I'm at something like 12 psi. I thought that was bad but my buddy thats a mechanic says that 12 is just fine and that my gauge might be off a little. When Im driving 60mph, im at 35-40. So as soon as i hit the gas I get my pressure up. I just dont like how it is at 12 at idle. I have 65000 miles on my z, I run mobil 1 fully senthetic, and despite the low pressure, my lt1 runs like a m.f.in SCALDED DOG!!! Let me know what you think about the low pressure and if anybody else has this problem.
Actual factory minimums are:
6psi at idle
18 at 2000
24 at 4000
I still prefer the 10psi/1k rpm rule.
FWIW, when I changed out my sending unit, I gained almost 10 psi on the gauge.
#12
Originally posted by shoebox
Actual factory minimums are:
6psi at idle
18 at 2000
24 at 4000
I still prefer the 10psi/1k rpm rule.
FWIW, when I changed out my sending unit, I gained almost 10 psi on the gauge.
Actual factory minimums are:
6psi at idle
18 at 2000
24 at 4000
I still prefer the 10psi/1k rpm rule.
FWIW, when I changed out my sending unit, I gained almost 10 psi on the gauge.
From the cars I've seen that my buddy has worked on, if oil pressure is starting to get near the factory minimums, you're getting close to a rebuild.
#13
Originally posted by Type_O_Negative_1320
This is what mine was showing...then it blew up.
From the cars I've seen that my buddy has worked on, if oil pressure is starting to get near the factory minimums, you're getting close to a rebuild.
This is what mine was showing...then it blew up.
From the cars I've seen that my buddy has worked on, if oil pressure is starting to get near the factory minimums, you're getting close to a rebuild.
#14
Chicken or the egg? I don't usually scan the cockpit like I used to when I was learning to fly. So I probably wouldn't notice the oil pressure dropping until I noticed some other abnormal things, like power loss, extra knock, etc.
This is what happened Sunday, when the Engine went south with only 8K on the odom.
Wish there had been some more obvious warning. Then I might not be looking at a complete rebuild. I guess $hit happens.
This is what happened Sunday, when the Engine went south with only 8K on the odom.
Wish there had been some more obvious warning. Then I might not be looking at a complete rebuild. I guess $hit happens.
#15
I had to get a new one when I put my motor in because mine cracked in half. The part number is 10201491. When I did this, I got about an extra 12-15PSI on the gauge. I got it from Jason Cromer and he told me on the phone that these things generally begin to go bad after a while giving a false reading. It was only like $23.43 from him and very easy to do. I had a Chevy Blazer that was the same way until I changed the sender. Try and you'll see a difference.