Who has 160 thermostats?
#16
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Trans AM 22502:
"Wreak havoc in what way?" Well, in my 93' T/A I installed one and my temperature rose substantially. (upwards of 250 daily) I made sure all of the air was out of the system, had no leaks in the hoses, radiator, etc. I had it pressure tested at a shop, and the guy told me to take it off because the stock CPU was having it open at 180, ...</font>
"Wreak havoc in what way?" Well, in my 93' T/A I installed one and my temperature rose substantially. (upwards of 250 daily) I made sure all of the air was out of the system, had no leaks in the hoses, radiator, etc. I had it pressure tested at a shop, and the guy told me to take it off because the stock CPU was having it open at 180, ...</font>
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Rob B 95Z A4, !T96
My New Tech Link Page
#19
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Trans AM 22502:
"Wreak havoc in what way?" Well, in my 93' T/A I installed one and my temperature rose substantially. (upwards of 250 daily) I made sure all of the air was out of the system, had no leaks in the hoses, radiator, etc. I had it pressure tested at a shop, and the guy told me to take it off because the stock CPU was having it open at 180, but since the t-stat opened up at 160, that the thermostat was never closing, which meant that coolant didn't stay in the radiator long enough to cool the car down. After replacing it with the stock 180, I never got above 220, and that number is because my car had been running hot. Plus, I live in San Antonio, where the weather is like 95+ daily and 100% humidity and the 180 still did better on my car than the 160. This is not an isolated incident. Just yesterday another user posted the EXACT same problem with the 160 t-stat that I posted. At first, I thought I was the only one and that the reason that mine was running so hot was because I had a speed density sensor and not a MAF. But a guy with a MAF posted the same problem just yesterday. Obviously, much more people have experienced success with the 160, but I'm just posting to give you something to think about.</font>
"Wreak havoc in what way?" Well, in my 93' T/A I installed one and my temperature rose substantially. (upwards of 250 daily) I made sure all of the air was out of the system, had no leaks in the hoses, radiator, etc. I had it pressure tested at a shop, and the guy told me to take it off because the stock CPU was having it open at 180, but since the t-stat opened up at 160, that the thermostat was never closing, which meant that coolant didn't stay in the radiator long enough to cool the car down. After replacing it with the stock 180, I never got above 220, and that number is because my car had been running hot. Plus, I live in San Antonio, where the weather is like 95+ daily and 100% humidity and the 180 still did better on my car than the 160. This is not an isolated incident. Just yesterday another user posted the EXACT same problem with the 160 t-stat that I posted. At first, I thought I was the only one and that the reason that mine was running so hot was because I had a speed density sensor and not a MAF. But a guy with a MAF posted the same problem just yesterday. Obviously, much more people have experienced success with the 160, but I'm just posting to give you something to think about.</font>
Are you sure you got the right stat? The hypertech one? Your mechanic is an idiot as well. CPU controlling a purely mechanical device? Wonder how it would do that?
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1994 25th TA with all of the options. G2 intake with a K&N panel filter, 1LE elbow and SLP air foil. Exhaust cut-out.
#20
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Trans AM 22502:
"Wreak havoc in what way?" Well, in my 93' T/A I installed one and my temperature rose substantially. (upwards of 250 daily) I made sure all of the air was out of the system, had no leaks in the hoses, radiator, etc. I had it pressure tested at a shop, and the guy told me to take it off because the stock CPU was having it open at 180, but since the t-stat opened up at 160, that the thermostat was never closing, which meant that coolant didn't stay in the radiator long enough to cool the car down. After replacing it with the stock 180, I never got above 220, and that number is because my car had been running hot. Plus, I live in San Antonio, where the weather is like 95+ daily and 100% humidity and the 180 still did better on my car than the 160. This is not an isolated incident. Just yesterday another user posted the EXACT same problem with the 160 t-stat that I posted. At first, I thought I was the only one and that the reason that mine was running so hot was because I had a speed density sensor and not a MAF. But a guy with a MAF posted the same problem just yesterday. Obviously, much more people have experienced success with the 160, but I'm just posting to give you something to think about.</font>
"Wreak havoc in what way?" Well, in my 93' T/A I installed one and my temperature rose substantially. (upwards of 250 daily) I made sure all of the air was out of the system, had no leaks in the hoses, radiator, etc. I had it pressure tested at a shop, and the guy told me to take it off because the stock CPU was having it open at 180, but since the t-stat opened up at 160, that the thermostat was never closing, which meant that coolant didn't stay in the radiator long enough to cool the car down. After replacing it with the stock 180, I never got above 220, and that number is because my car had been running hot. Plus, I live in San Antonio, where the weather is like 95+ daily and 100% humidity and the 180 still did better on my car than the 160. This is not an isolated incident. Just yesterday another user posted the EXACT same problem with the 160 t-stat that I posted. At first, I thought I was the only one and that the reason that mine was running so hot was because I had a speed density sensor and not a MAF. But a guy with a MAF posted the same problem just yesterday. Obviously, much more people have experienced success with the 160, but I'm just posting to give you something to think about.</font>
my car before mods ran 180 without a/c (only the fans were wired 24/7
then after headers and 160 stat and etc the car ran 190 and with a/c it climbed up 2 230 + and i would obviously not let it go there or higher so i had 2 shut it off
after a month or so of this now my car runs 220 or so without a/c .so its been in like 3 shops t4rying to figure out whats wrong...its been pressured tested and it holds with no problems. most of the sensors are new now.so i dunno what i can do,someone helpppppppppppppppppppppppp ,i want my car 2 run 180 again!!!!!
p.s. i took the 160 out and went back 2 the 180 and its still screwed up the same ,and now the fans are set back 2 stock and all
#21
I love mine, i hated seeing the temp up around 210 may me parinod. With the 160 its great stays right inbetween 160 and the first mark. Just make sure you get you fan reprogramed to kick on sooner. Depending on what year you have.
Brad
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Remember #3
97 Z-28 Silver A4
MODS and pics on my web page..
Future Plans LS6
Track times.
13.50@102.89
Check out my web page.
hotrod.cz28.com
clarioncorvette.com
Brad
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Remember #3
97 Z-28 Silver A4
MODS and pics on my web page..
Future Plans LS6
Track times.
13.50@102.89
Check out my web page.
hotrod.cz28.com
clarioncorvette.com
#22
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by magicvega:
my guy said the same thing....
my car before mods ran 180 without a/c (only the fans were wired 24/7
then after headers and 160 stat and etc the car ran 190 and with a/c it climbed up 2 230 + and i would obviously not let it go there or higher so i had 2 shut it off
after a month or so of this now my car runs 220 or so without a/c .so its been in like 3 shops t4rying to figure out whats wrong...its been pressured tested and it holds with no problems. most of the sensors are new now.so i dunno what i can do,someone helpppppppppppppppppppppppp ,i want my car 2 run 180 again!!!!!
p.s. i took the 160 out and went back 2 the 180 and its still screwed up the same ,and now the fans are set back 2 stock and all</font>
my guy said the same thing....
my car before mods ran 180 without a/c (only the fans were wired 24/7
then after headers and 160 stat and etc the car ran 190 and with a/c it climbed up 2 230 + and i would obviously not let it go there or higher so i had 2 shut it off
after a month or so of this now my car runs 220 or so without a/c .so its been in like 3 shops t4rying to figure out whats wrong...its been pressured tested and it holds with no problems. most of the sensors are new now.so i dunno what i can do,someone helpppppppppppppppppppppppp ,i want my car 2 run 180 again!!!!!
p.s. i took the 160 out and went back 2 the 180 and its still screwed up the same ,and now the fans are set back 2 stock and all</font>
If you had to have your fans already wired on 24/7 before to keep it cool, then you had existing issues.
and p.s. since you went back to the 180 thermo, you proved the 160 did not cause the problem. Still doing it.
Oh, for the original poster, I have run the 160º and works fine (HPP reprogrammed fans). I put the 180º back in in the winter.
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Rob B 95Z A4
Tech Page
[This message has been edited by shoebox (edited August 23, 2002).]
#23
I have one, it was worth 20 bucks I guess, the car doesn't get as hot as fast, still sitting in traffic it heats up like crazy.
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93 T/A A4 3.23
MTI CAI, 1LE Elbow, Flow master, 160 T-Stat, B&M Trans Cooler, ES Trans Mount, Power Slots Rotors, 17X9.5 Silver ZR1s, Kenwood 516S Head & 10 Disc Changer, Alpine Alarm
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93 T/A A4 3.23
MTI CAI, 1LE Elbow, Flow master, 160 T-Stat, B&M Trans Cooler, ES Trans Mount, Power Slots Rotors, 17X9.5 Silver ZR1s, Kenwood 516S Head & 10 Disc Changer, Alpine Alarm
#24
I have one. It's a little chilly in the winter, but the car definitely runs cooler.
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97 Z28 M6
Flowmaster 3" single outlet cat-back, HPP+, 160 t-stat, 4.10 gears, Whisper MAF, K&N FIPK, LT4 KM, 1LE Bellows, !CAGS
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97 Z28 M6
Flowmaster 3" single outlet cat-back, HPP+, 160 t-stat, 4.10 gears, Whisper MAF, K&N FIPK, LT4 KM, 1LE Bellows, !CAGS
#25
Me me me!!! I love mine, the car doesn't ever heat up halfway now. Nice and cool.
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Active Duty USAF 93 T/A M6 (M29) - Hypertech Powercoil, B&M Shifter, 97+ Console, Chrome WS6 ims & SZ50's, AZ S&M Headers, Random Tech 3" Cat and stainless Cat Back, TB bypass, OEM 97 Ram Air, Custom Chip, 160 t-stat
Best time: 13.193 Best mph: 104.82 Best 60': 1.923
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Active Duty USAF 93 T/A M6 (M29) - Hypertech Powercoil, B&M Shifter, 97+ Console, Chrome WS6 ims & SZ50's, AZ S&M Headers, Random Tech 3" Cat and stainless Cat Back, TB bypass, OEM 97 Ram Air, Custom Chip, 160 t-stat
Best time: 13.193 Best mph: 104.82 Best 60': 1.923
#28
Look here:http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=82374
I have one and it never got above 167 driving but it rose to about 180 at a stop. I took it out though a few days ago because of the problem I was having in the link above. I will probably put it back in during the summer if it starts running hotter than I want.
I have one and it never got above 167 driving but it rose to about 180 at a stop. I took it out though a few days ago because of the problem I was having in the link above. I will probably put it back in during the summer if it starts running hotter than I want.
#30
Originally posted by Trans AM 22502
"Wreak havoc in what way?" Well, in my 93' T/A I installed one and my temperature rose substantially. (upwards of 250 daily) I made sure all of the air was out of the system, had no leaks in the hoses, radiator, etc. I had it pressure tested at a shop, and the guy told me to take it off because the stock CPU was having it open at 180, but since the t-stat opened up at 160, that the thermostat was never closing, which meant that coolant didn't stay in the radiator long enough to cool the car down. After replacing it with the stock 180, I never got above 220, and that number is because my car had been running hot. Plus, I live in San Antonio, where the weather is like 95+ daily and 100% humidity and the 180 still did better on my car than the 160. This is not an isolated incident. Just yesterday another user posted the EXACT same problem with the 160 t-stat that I posted. At first, I thought I was the only one and that the reason that mine was running so hot was because I had a speed density sensor and not a MAF. But a guy with a MAF posted the same problem just yesterday. Obviously, much more people have experienced success with the 160, but I'm just posting to give you something to think about.
"Wreak havoc in what way?" Well, in my 93' T/A I installed one and my temperature rose substantially. (upwards of 250 daily) I made sure all of the air was out of the system, had no leaks in the hoses, radiator, etc. I had it pressure tested at a shop, and the guy told me to take it off because the stock CPU was having it open at 180, but since the t-stat opened up at 160, that the thermostat was never closing, which meant that coolant didn't stay in the radiator long enough to cool the car down. After replacing it with the stock 180, I never got above 220, and that number is because my car had been running hot. Plus, I live in San Antonio, where the weather is like 95+ daily and 100% humidity and the 180 still did better on my car than the 160. This is not an isolated incident. Just yesterday another user posted the EXACT same problem with the 160 t-stat that I posted. At first, I thought I was the only one and that the reason that mine was running so hot was because I had a speed density sensor and not a MAF. But a guy with a MAF posted the same problem just yesterday. Obviously, much more people have experienced success with the 160, but I'm just posting to give you something to think about.
probably because you had an sbc thermo from autozone.